The gauges all quit, and then the engine quit. i put new bat. in, cleaned terminals, & stater still wouldn't spin. we ran a jumper wire to starter solenoid, & it starts & runs great, but no tach, speedo, temp. ga., and heater fan doesn't work. i'm stumped. anybody out there help???
SOURCE: High mileage oil change for a 1994 Nissan Pickup; what to use?
mkimdaly: There is a product on the market called "Restore" which is an oil additive designed specifically for high mileage engines with oil consumption and smoking problems. Mind you, it will not fix evey situation, but it has resolved quite a few on cars which have come through my shop. "Mechanic in a can".
If I am not mistaken, it is designed to fill in small scratches that may be in the cylinder walls. I also has an effect on lifters and on oil seals. There is also a product put out by "Lubromoly" it is a product made in Germany and you may not find it on the shelves at normal retailers, but possibly carried at repair shops which specialize in imports. I carry this product line at my shop and have had good luck with many of their other products as well. There is a company called "Worldpac" but they only sell to repair shops. The product line I am talking about, I have to buy must be bought by the case.
I am sure there may be other comparable products on the market which you may find at "OReilley's or Autozone. You need to speak to their sales people and possibly ask to talk to one of the people who are at their wholesale desk at the back who may be even more familiar with the products. FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS CAREFULLY! The main reason many products don't seem to work well, is that they are not applied as the manufacturer had instructed in the can and/or box! A product as old as the hills and twice as dusty is "Marvel Mystery oil" I have used it on engines which had little or no compression and pulled the plugs, poured the oil in the cylinders and let it sit over night. I would spin the engine over in the morning to blow the oil out, screw the plugs back in and fire the engine back up. There have been many times than I have had engine regain compression because the oil freed up rings that had stuck to the pistons. This oil can be added to the motor oil and the GAS! As far as the type of oil to use in the engine: It really depends on how well you have taken care of your engine to begin with. If you have done frequent oil and filter changes and the engine is relatively clean inside, I would run a 20W-40 with the additive and in my shop, I happen to use Castrol. Although most premium oils will perform quite well. If you have an engine with a lot of sludge buildup inside it, the sludge is probably the only thing holding it together. WARNING!!!!! DO NOT USE ANY KIND OF ENGINE FLUSH DESIGNED TO CLEAN THE INTERNALS OF THE ENGINE! When I refer to this, I mean a product that instructs you to put it in, run the engine for a while, drain it and then replace the oil and filter. YOU WILL IN ALL LIKELY HOOD DO MORE HARM TO THE ENGINE THAN HELP!
I hope I have answered your question.
Good luck.
SOURCE: 1986 Nissan 720 4x4 pickup truck. Speedometer
Either the gauge is bad, the cable is kinked or the speedometer connector is bad...at the tranny.
SOURCE: 2001 Nissan Altima - Instrument panels gauges stop working
My 2001 Altima's instrument gauges die out after high-speed driving for 40-50 miles. Engen also loses power. Everything is back to normal when the car cools down. It turned out the ingition relay was bad. I could duplicate the problem right away by removing the relay. Actually, it is very easy to find the relay which is located above the fuse panel. The ignition relay is the bottom left one among the five relays there. It costs only $20.
SOURCE: My 2001 Nissan Quest temp gauge rise to hot, cools then get hot
You better not be driving your car overheating like that and shutting off on you! It sounds like you've most likely lost all your coolant due to a leak of some sort, and your engine is overheating. I would take the vehicle to a shop make sure you don't have some kind of major coolant leak. They'll also want to do a "block-check", which is a fluid that can detect combustion vapors in the coolant, that would indicate you've blown a head gasket due to overheating. It's very bad for an engine to run without coolant, even for 10 minutes. I'd have the vehicle towed in unless the shop is right around the corner. If you'd like to check your coolant level yourself, make sure the engine is cold or at least the vehicle has been off for an hour. Checking the overflow tank level may not be good enough. You'll have to remove the radiator cap and determine if you've got any coolant in the radiator. If not use either regular pre-mixed green coolant, or if you have non pre-mixed dilute it to a 50/50 ratio coolant and water. I wouldn't continue to drive your van with it acting up like it has until you can get it checked out.
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