Blower motor in back works but front one does not. For a while, whenever you turned off the power for the front blower, the blower would kick on harder. i have automatic temperature control for my vehicle.
OK So, I have had to replace the blower resistor twice and its still has failed. Now its time to replace the blower motor. I have the Haynes manual for this vehicle but it seems to miss some important steps. Here's what I did, I hope it helps you. This job is given 3.5 hours on the shop book and believe me, its not a wonder why.
Tools that I used
- standard screwdrivers 6" with 1/4 blade and 8" with 1/2" blade
- 1/4 inch ratchet with 2" and 1" extensions
- 8mm socket
- 10 mm wrench
- Phillips S2
- drill with attachment for screwdrivers ( I have tendonitis)
- gooseneck extension (plastic / flexible)
Here are the instructions from the Haynes book with my comments and pictures.
One note is that the picture in section 3-8, fig 10-10 is upside down. The Actuator motor is on the bottom of the unit, looks
like a black deck of cards with a wire going to it. Wires at clipped to the housing.
2001 and later models
Step 8 - Disconnect battery negative cable - Wrench 10mm (1/2inch)
Step 9 - Partially remove instrument panel.... - remove glove compartment to access the blower and evap area. Two clips on
either side, unsnap hinges. ( remember to empty the bo2001 dodge grand caravan blower motor not working - b0fa54e.gifg src="/uploads/images/b0fa54e.gif" alt="b0fa54e.gif" class="h_mi" />
Step 10 - Disconnect pigtail from blower motor resistor. Green/Black wires
Step 11 - Remove 2 screws to remove actuator. (8mm socket) Remove wire from clips and pull down to remove the acuator. This
will buy you about 1/2 of extra space. Before you do all this, remove t2001 dodge grand caravan blower motor not working - ee6e831.gifpet trim which allows you to pull back the 
carpet and the silencer padding. This will allow for some more room to pull the housing down and believe me, you'll need it!
Step 12 - Remove 2 more screws on the air intake and lower housing. I had three screws, you should see them through the
glove box.
Step 13 - Remove the 3 screws at the lower intake and lower evap housing.
Step 14 - Push rubber grommet through hole in lower housing. Use large blade screwdriver.
Step 15 - Remove lower intake housing from evap housing.
This is where it gets tricky.
You can remove the lower intake housing but you need to pry it out from the recirculation door.
The bottom of the unit where the actuator was has a round spindle that clips into place with the three plastic clips.
Lightly pry the lower clips and then also pry through the hole at the connection point. Picture below.
Once you pry it will release.
You will have to jiggle this loose but it will eventually come off.
with mine the recirc door POPPED2001 dodge grand caravan blower motor not working - b839de4.gif top rest. I had to m2001 dodge grand caravan blower motor not working - bdcc6f4.gif how to get it into t2001 dodge grand caravan blower motor not working - bd0eafa.gif it doesn't stay in t2001 dodge grand caravan blower motor not working - 2d042db.gifbr />
Step 16 - Push wires through the hole if you haven't done so already.
Step 17 - Move recirc door about to help you reach the three screws that hold down the motor assembly.
Step 18 - GENTLY flex the door to remove the blower motor and wheel. I moved the motor 180 to help get into a better position.
Install is reverse. Need to make sure that the recirc door moves relatively easily. The calibration below will make sure all is set properly. If it doesnt pass you'll have to recheck the position of the recirc door top spindle and cavity line up.
Step 19 - Not in the book
18. Perform the heater-NC control calibration procedure:
a. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
b. Simultaneously depress and hold the Power and Recirculation buttons on the heater-A/C control for at least five seconds.
The manual heater-A/C control Delay Light Emitting Diode (LED) and Recirculation LED, or the Automatic Temperature Control
(ATC) heater-A/C control Delay and Recirculation graphics will begin to flash when the calibration procedure has begun.
c. The calibration procedure should take less than three minutes to complete for the manual system, and less than twenty
seconds for the ATC system. When the LED's or graphics stop flashing, the calibration procedure is complete.
d. If the LED's or graphics continue to flash beyond the time stated above, it indicates that the heater-A/C control system
has detected a failure and a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) has been set. Use the DRBIII(R) scan tool and the appropriate
diagnostic information for further diagnosis.
OK, I just fixed my problem. It was indeed the resistor, which sits behind the glovebox. My GC does not have auto temp control, so the part number is slightly different, but same issue. My original part numer was 04885583AC, but the new part (from the dealership) is 68029175AA. Note that the part looks a lot different, but this is what the dealership gave me, and it works fine. BTW, the part cost $30.
Something to note in solution #3. The circulation door doesn't need to be removed. The photo showing the complete housing assembly mislead me to believe that it had to be removed. I broke it in the process. The rest of the information is good. I think I will have to pull out the entire unit to repair this new issue. TO MAKE IT CLEAR THE RECIRCULATION DOOR DOES NOT NEED TO BE REMOVED.
-Frustrated
This is my story of me fixing my 2002 dodge grand caravan sport's front blower motor. I am not a professional mechanic but I do what I can to keep the vehicles running and out of the shop when possible. I go to the parts store and buy a blower motor resistor for $15 since my fan only works on high speed. A new blower motor resistor does not fix the problem. My blower motor was making a noise at start up and was a burning smell when driving coming through the vents (smelled like burning plastic). I go back to auto store and buy a blower motor for $90 and then go home to change it out. I removed the glove box, electrical connectors, actuator, and then housing for the motor. I was now left with only the plastic door (that door that moves when you press button on console to make it fresh or recirculate air). After removing the 3 screws holding the motor in, I had trouble getting the motor out so I tried bending the plastic door to allow for clearance to get the motor out. That's when I head pop! The plastic door come down and detached. Oh great! now I can remove the motor but I broke the door. After sleeping on it and thinking throughout the next day what I would do I came up with an idea. I was not going to remove the dash just so I could get in the replace the plastic part that broke. I had another idea. I reattached the plastic door from underneath. I got a wooden dowel rod and and put super glue gel on it and reached from underneath while holding a flashlight and coated the plastic areas with the super glue gel (use the gel and it will work much better). I then waited about 30 seconds then I used a long screwdriver with duct tape at the tip area to hold a 3/4 inch machine screw to the tip. I then screwed the machine screw through the hole and presto it's as good as new. It actually is stronger. I waited about 15 minutes to let dry before beginning with putting in the motor. Now I'm ready to put in the blower motor and I can't get it to fit. After bending the door slightly, I still couldn't get the motor in and I did remember what happened when I bent the door before, so I stopped to think for a moment. Alas, I had an idea, there are 2 screws holding the motor to the mounting bracket, I removed the screws, and easily slid the motor up in 2 connected pieces. I then put the 3 mounting screws and the other 2 screws back in that I had just took out. I reconnected the housing and actuator and then reconnected the battery neg cable and fired up the mini-van. Success, Everything worked great! I thought I would share some of my ideas/struggles to make it easier for someone else who had this problem. The main take away from this would be to keep from breaking the plastic door in the first place by removing the 2 screws connecting the blower motor mounting bracket to the actual motor before trying to remove the old one and when placing in the new motor. I hope this helps someone else out.
Exactly how do you get the 4th screw out of the blower housing.
I removed the 3 you could see from removing the glove box but it will not come down or off.
The plastic exstention is needed for this 4th screw I guess?
Do you get to it from top by removing the dash?
I see no-way of getting to it from bottom as you can't even get your fingers in between the housing & firewall.
OK, I figured it out.
Here goes;
Disconnect ground batter wire (to prevent air bag from going off).
Remove glove box, the sides squeeze in and
then drops down, the bottom just snaps into the grooves. Behind it is
the fan blower motor & housing. At the bottom of the housing is a
small servo motor with 2 screws. Remove the motor, notice the shaft
where the motor goes into the housing, there are 3 plastic prong items,
these will have to be expanded for removal (later on). Remove the 5
screws of the housing. 2 easy to get ones are near the front, one way
in the back up high, these all point downward. You may need to pull the
carpet back to get to the back screw that points downward. There are 2
screws that point upward, one is in front and can easily be removed from
behind the glove box opening, use an 8mm wrench. The last screw is the
most difficult. It points upward and is behind everything fairly up high
(why the engineers couldn't make this screw a pop out item, go figure).
Remove the part of the dash that covers the speakers, this just pops
out. Now remove the passenger speaker, 2 screws. No need to unplug,
just move to the side. Get an 8mm 1/4" socket, with 6 inch extension,
and 1 to 2 inch round ratchet (no arm on ratchet), special tool comes
with small cheap kits.Reach down through the speaker hole with the ratchet, and reach up from
the bottom (this takes long arms or two people). Feel for the screw with
your bottom hand and work the socket head on. My 11 year old son worked
the ratchet from above. His small hands and arm fit down the speaker
hole the best. Once this last screw comes out, the housing is loose but
only drops about 1/2 inch. Don't pull down or you will break the sliding
plastic door inside the housing. Remember above when you took the small
motor off, at the bottom of the housing is 3 prongs around a shaft,
use care (some force may be applied) to spread these and pop the shaft
upwards, the housing will then be off, oh yea, you will need to pop the
rubber grommet and wires out. Hard part over!!! You can now get to the blower motor, it
has 3 screws.
Remove the dash pad and the right speaker it is tight but it's the only way to get to the fifth screw from the top. It works I'm not a mechanic and I just did 1 and my van using this trick.
If the blower motor only works on high squeal when you turn it on don't make the mistake I did and replace the resistor I burned up a new resistor. You will have to replace the motor then the resistor.
get a 1/4 " socket assessories, a couple extensions of different sizes ans about unuversial jintstthat allow you to make all the tuns u need.
...and ad a piece of chewing gum or aluminum foil in the scre bit to hold the screw in place when u go to put back in.
"about three universal joints" i meant...
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My 12 y.o. son replaced our resistor on '02 GC, but unfortunately it looks like we have to take it to the dealer for a new blower motor!
Probably an arm and leg to fix it. This has been the most expensive car to own than all our others put together I think!!!!
My front blower motor stopped working in my 2001 dodge grand caravan sport. I ordered a blower motor but now am sending it back because come to find out the pig tails going to the resistor and from the blower were in very poor shape. I cleaned them up some and realized that they got hot enough to start to melt poor connection. New pigtails put on and plug in works like a champ now and save some money.
Don't forget to check the fuses.
Replace $12 blower motor resistor first....look for burn?brown damage. Sometimes they will allow some speeds to work, bur not others. Once replaced,. Expect it to.go.out again, because a failing motor is.blowing out the resistor. Budget for a new blower motor and squirrel cage asymbly.. dont try to remove or adjust fan on motor shaft, and carefully put it back in place without bending the motor.ahaft, otherwise youl have a new noisy.blower fan that.has a rumbly.out-of-balance.sound until.it comes.apart again
SOURCE: air conditioner blower motor resister on dodge grand caravan
in my 2004 grand caravan it's behind the glove box and left of the blower motor. disconnect the wires first then remove the 2 screws to pull out the resistor unit. First make sure you have removed the negative of your batterie. I had the same pm that prevented the blower motor to operate in any speed. I hope this will help
SOURCE: front blower motor on 2002 dodge grand caravan
it's the blower motor resistor , it's behind the glove compartment, just make sure you disconect the neg. for battery first, open the glove comp. and pull the rubber stops towars the center so you can let the glove comp. hang all the way to the floor , the resistor it's in front of you, disconect the two conectors there's one big with 6 0r 8 wires coming out and another with only two, take them out by pressing on the side of each one, remove it , put the new one on , conect the battery and your done. it's about $ 13.00 at o'riellys auto parts .
I hope this fix yor problem.
David M.
SOURCE: the front heater/air conditioner blower stopped
First check the voltage at the front blower moter. If it has voltage then it may just need a new motor.
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Samee Same...Rear works Front doesn't.... I'm going to try the relay under the hood...it's only $10 at Advance Autoparts. I'll post the results...
I'm having the same issue with my 2005 GC. I checked the fuse and the relay already, and both are fine. Next thing to try is the blower motor resistor.
Last year only high on front blower would work. Now the whole thing quit. Replaced both fuses in the fuse box and replaced resistor. Nothing is working. I understand the blower motor itself is near impossible to get to. Anything else I can check or any advice for changing the blower motor? Thanks for any help . . . trying to avoid the $800 bill for the shop to change it.
Mine was not the resistor or fuse or relay. Just replaced blower and it is now running fine. . . I am not a mechanic. Here is my advice for replacing blower: Get the screws you can reach. I tried for 1.5 hours and spent $20 on wrench extensions/adaptors and no luck getting the screw in the back. In the end I just "carefully broke" (oxymoron I know) the one in the back. You have to be careful then with the air flow regulator (I snapped mine). Anyway with all that **** out of the way the blower installation was a breeze. In the end I just put all the parts back on (even the ones I broke) and manually placed the air-flow regulator in the wide open position. That is my advice. Oh yeah, one more piece of advice - never buy another dodge or crystler - nothing but problems with my 2001 grand caravan sport.
yes, how hard to replace the resistor.
Thanks sooooo much. Followed your instructions and replaced my AC Motor Blower!! All is working perfect! Will add to make sure you pull back the carpet and padding. I tore some of the padding but HAD to. Well worth it. Thanks again
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