Coolant is leaking from my 88 rx7 and i replaced the rad.~the water pump and the heater core . its leaking back where my oil pan is . and all of my hoses are good .?
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LEARN TO DO THE TESTS.
use the tool, called radiator leak down test. (has hand pump)
find the like that way safely cold engine or OR , the classical why
hood up best when cold a new radiator cap, that does not leak.
run engine until fully hot , takes 15min in summer.
now at this moment, fully hot the RAD and the whole loop is at 15psi pressure
and the magic pressure lets you as the tech find the actual leak.
to the ground? or engine oil pan or to the front passenger toes (foot well flooding
with antifreeze leaking. anywhere
look every where, engine all sides, not just causal glancing,
hose leak, or even squirting and the landing point fools you,before.
all hoses, not just those 2 big ones
heater core leaking or again its 2 hoses only.
water pump leaks
see head bottom edge leak is bad head gasket (or warped head )
freeze (core) plugs leaking,
some intake manifold can leak coolant.
look every where there, make no assumptions find the leak.
yes a cracked head can push combustion gasses to the RAD
and land in the side coolant recovery bottle (jug)
we use the next tool, a combustion leak gas checking tool to top of RAd CAP
A GREEN/BLUE DYE TESTER.
RAD CAP OFF IN THE MORNING DEAD COLD
NO OIL DROPS THERE, NO BLACK CARBON DUST SEEN FLOATING THERE.
DO A COMPRESSION TEST YET? OR CYLINDER LEAK DOWN TEST?
THE COOLANT SYSTEM ON MOST CARS ARE VERY COMPLEX,. NOT IN THEORY EVER, BUT IN PRACTICES SO MANY PLACES TO LEAK.
1996 NO VIN TOLD OR WHAT ENGINE IS THERE,.
USA CAR HAD 2.
3.3 L EGA V6
3.5 L EGE V6
FEW USEFUL FACTS TOLD. JUST LEAKS.
THERE ARE 2 WAYS TO FIND IT AND YOU DID NONE.(i SAY STOP GUESSING, (BUT CAP AND THERMOSTAT ARE SLAM DUNKS.)
1: HOT ENGINE TEST, HAS 15PSI UNDER THE CAP
AND ANY LEAKS , HOOD UP IS SEEN CLEAR AS DAY EVEN SQUIRTS 3 FEET AWAY FOOLING YOU.
DO NOT DRIVE THE CAR AND BLOW WATER ALL OVER THE ENGINE BAY OR OVER HEAT IT.
NOT TOLD IS COOLANT ON THE GROUND OR IN THE OIL PAN OR ON PASSENGERS FOOT WELL OR TOES.OUCH.
2; USE AND READ LEAK DOWN PRESSURE TOOL.
DONE COLD. ENGINE AND 10 X MORE SAFE BUT THE TOOL COSTS MONEY TO BE SAFER.
#1 TOLD AGAIN BY ME HERE VAST TIMES.
FIRST GET THE Rad FULL.
NEW GAS CAP $5 NO 27 YEAR OLD THERMOSTAT IS GOOD. EVER.
7 YEAR EOL DESIGN LIFE SPAN IS SPEC. SO ....A>>>>>$25 FIX, AND NO CAR FIX IS FREE..
(ASIDE OF LOSE CLAMPS)
KEYOFF COLD ,RAD, ADD 50% AF FLUID FULL
i USE "PRESTONE ANY CAR" AF FLUID TODAY.
ZERO MIX ISSUEA WITH OTHER BRANDS !!!!!!!!
OK RAD IS FULL. FOR SURE.
HOOD UP. ENGINE COLD
KEY ON START IT FOR UP TO 30 MINS.
GET ENGINE FULLY HOT,. NO NOT BOILING
KEY OFF IF IT OVERHEATS TOO SOON
KEY OFF NOW. i USE SCAN TOOL AND SEE PID ECT AT 180F+ NOW AND SAY OK THIS BLOCK IS NOW FULLY HOT. (NORMAL)
THE CAP NOW IS AT 15-PSI AND IN FACT
ANY LEAKS THERE ARE MOSTLY ARE SEEN NOW
IF YOU GO SLOW AND JUST LOOK.
THE HOSES ALL
THE WHOLE ENGINE CAN LEAK
WATER PUMP
HEADS TO BLOCK LEAKS(HEAD GASKETS0
IF V6/8 ENGINE, NONE TOLD CAN LIKE AT INTAKE MANIFOLD FRONT OR REAR (PUSH ROD ENGINES NOT OVERHEAD CAM ENGINES
WATER IN TO THE ENGINE OIL PAN OR THE TRANNY.
WATER TO PASSENGER FEET HEATER CORE BAD.
LEADS TO GROUND ARE EASY TO FIND, LOOKING
TO OIL PANS WE SEE LUBE AS CHOCOLATE MILK.
THE FRONT OF MY 3.7 LITER , THE FRONT COVER OF ENGINE, HAS WATER PATHS. THAT SURE CAN LEAK.
THE CAR RUNNING WATER FOR COOLANT
AND IT FREEZES OUT SIDE AT JUST BELOW 32F
THE ENGINE CRACKS IN HALF.
CRACKED BLOCK AND OR HEADS.
DOOMED, SO NEVER JUST WATER
ONLY RUN 50% AF ONLY
THE TRICK IS WATCH IT LEAK HOOD UP.
HURRY NOT.
YOU WILL SEE IT OR IS A HUGE PROBLEM.
OR IS HEATER CORE LEAKING
OR SEE RAD LEAK LIKE MAD.
FIND THE LEAK PARKED IS BEST.
GOOD LUCK !!!
LOTS OF CAUSE, FOR SURE.
not replacing lost coolant , makes this worse.
only on cool down (time waited) engine , RAd CAP OFF FILL IT TO THE TOP AFTER DOING THE RECOVERY SIDE BOTTLE 1/2 FULL.
the causes are huge. and well known for 10o years. endless examples to read online or in books.
an new rad caps is dirty cheap and fast, and is too old now.
1: running pure water not 50% AF antifreeze, it has 260f boil protection not just freeze .
2: thermostat bad, no 1997 stat is any good now, ever. or put in wrong for example backards or the bleed hole indexted wrong (up hill is bingo)
3: air in the system not burped out. see RAD cap off in my preamble.
4: leaks in hoses, (any coolant) to ground to heater core down.
5: leaks RAD or in heater coil, passenger has wet feet?)
6: leaks in the engine we pressure test it at RAD cap ( a tool)
7: water pump leaks or impeller rusted nothing or to lettel left.
8: head warped gasket now ba but is #6 said a different way.
9: rad PACKed full or bugs or same to front AC condenser core.
10 fan belts loose or even missing, or shreaded, to junk.
11:electric fans even 3 of them some dead. (any)
12;see steam cloud at rear tail pipe, see #8
13, intake manifold gasket leaking, coolant to ground or 2 the enigine oil pan.but is #6 again just told a new way.
check your hoses, water pump heater core radiator cap, if car has been overheated, check exhaust for steam and smell of coolant, check oil make sure it is not milky, last 2 are symptoms of blown head gasket
first of all the water pump doesn't have a heater, all the water pump does is cycle water (coolant) throughout the cooling system, the heater is up inside the dash behind the glove box.
I would feel the two 3/4" heater hoses that run from the engine into the heater core, if both of them are hot (providing the engine is at full temp) it one is hot and the other is cold maybe the heater core is plugged.
could be waterpump?
i was going to say rad fan,but if so heater would be hot.
lack of coolant will make heater core to blow cold,if engine heats up with full coolant,usually means poor or no circulation.
water pump?
run engine with full coolant,at operating temp.with rad cap off and look in rad cap hole and see if there is movement of water inside rad.
[rad fan will not come on if water is not circulating through rad water pump?]
Your auto is definitely loosing coolant and will overheat. Check your thermostat, hoses, belts, radiator cap and water pump. If you do not fix the leak or coolant circulation problem you can destroy your engine. The smell inside can be being picked up from the outside vent or it could be your heater core inside the ventillation area leaking (which could be your coolant leak).. If that is the case you will need to replace the heater core.
Sounds like the thermostat is working properly, the only other cause for the valve/lifter noise could be the oil pump is not pumping enough oil up to the top of the motor. I suggest doing an oil change(if you haven'y aleready), be sure to flush several quarts through, after sitting for 5 years I'm sure the old oil is pretty sludgy, this well help rule out this possibilty. As far as the water pump goes, It either works or doesn't typically when they are on there way out the will leak from the gaskets. A bad head gasket would cause white smoke form the exhaust as coolant get's into the oil and is burned off, so I don;t hink this is the problem.
Here's a start for you, hope this helps and good luck
did you ever figure this out
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