Question about 2009 Jeep Liberty
CEL blink means gross misfire, and cat burn up
CEL on can mean 100 + possible failures
SCAN it, first.
temp move with there is air pocket on top of engine
cold engine, fill the read full at ITS CAP, now the gauge will work.
if not low on AF then the ETC is bad or its wiring messed up
look at its wires first, are they OK?
it's and intermittent,failure
cant fix it if its not broke. (true mostly)
wait till it fails?
or take it in failing.?
or buy a scan tool and use it. (far far far cheaper that)
the stop , key on, and scan it. now. see DTCs you will.
or when it fails, key off on 3 times to see DTCs NOW, not later.
see flash codes now with CEL lamp.... all jeeps do this test.
there is no other way.
the DTC can clear (error) is 3 trips) some faster.
even the gas cap loose can trip a DTC for EVAP , like millions see.
Posted on Mar 23, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
A lot of Rain=Possible Water in the Gas=Erratic Running!
This sounds like it may be as simple as cleaning the water or gunk out of the gas tank which is what I always do 1st because it's easy and inexpensive.
If your fuel is contaminated with gunk, grime, WATER and/or bottom junk like rust this will cause stalling AND ROUGH ACCELERATION!
Try spraying a can of starter fluid in the air intake and see if it runs! If it does, it's most likely bad fuel or clogged injectors so....
Fill the tank with High Test, Add some DRYGAS and a good fuel system cleaner or 2 or 3 and this should dissolve all the gunk and clean the injectors! Read & follow the cans' instruction carefully.
If this cures the problem never let your gas tank get below 1/4 and especially never run it to empty as this is when the gunk and/or water will enter the system!
Hope this helps!
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Posted on Feb 11, 2009
One thing missing when running at idle is road vibration. Try a wiggle test on wiring to see if there is a short to ground anywhere. Only thing I really hate when doing this is that I have had problems like this disappear after doing test and not re-appear for a year or two, because the wires got moved enough to keep the bad wire off of where it had grounded.
Posted on Jun 07, 2009
Regardless of why the misfire is happening, the shop needs to find and make it right. If you don't return it to them, they can claim it's a new problem, unrelated to the work they did. As I don't have any idea if any sensors were imported with the new engine or if anything was damaged on install, I really can't comment past what I've said.
Hopefully you are dealing with a reputable competent shop...If so, aside from the obvious annoyance, they should definitely take care of the problem for you. I would check fluid levels to make sure that they are good and perhaps even check sensors to make sure they are all on securely but past that I would do nothing more. As far as driving, since you don't know what's wrong, I'd limit driving to only what's necessary but no more.
Posted on Jun 20, 2009
SOURCE: wrangler check engine light
If the light was flashing when it came on, then it means your engine is misfiring.
A solid light can mean anything from a loose/faulty gas cap to a transmission issue.
This light comes on when the computer detects a fault of some sort in its diagnostic tests. If it keeps detecting this issue, the light will remain on. If the light turns off, then it has detected that the issue may no longer be present.
In order to find out what the exact reason was for your light, You need to have your car computer scanned to retrieve the code that the computer would have stored when the light triggered. Most garages will do this free of charge. The code will tell you what may have caused the light to initially turn on.
Posted on Oct 07, 2009
Hi! I strongly suggest that you open the hood and remove the positive battery connector then let it sit for atleast 10mins. to reset the system. After 10mins. reconnect the positive battery connector turn the engine on and see how it goes. Hope this helps and thank you for using FixYa!
Posted on Oct 31, 2010
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Cooling Fan Switch
Engine Temperature Sensor
Fig. Remove the coolant temperature sensor
The coolant temperature gauge sensor is a temperature-variable resistor, or thermistor. As coolant temperature increases, the resistance of the sensor decreases or decreases, depending on the type of sensor.
A1 and A2 platforms use a different type of circuit that A3 vehicles. On A1 and A2 vehicles, the circuit is a "resistance to ground" type. A3 vehicles use a "variable voltage" type, where a voltage is supplied to the sensor. Because of the circuitry design on A3 vehicles, testing of the coolant temperature gauge is limited.
The engine coolant temperature gauge uses a heat sensitive sending unit to transmit an electrical signal to the gauge. The sending unit is a heat sensitive variable resistor that is located on or near to the cylinder head and threads into an engine coolant passage. The sensors are a Negative Temperature Coefficient (NTC) type. As the temperature increases, the electrical resistance of the sensor decreases. As the coolant temperature changes, so does the resistance of the sensor. The gauge is calibrated within the operating range of the sensor and interprets the resistance value to display the coolant temperature.
Beginning with model year 1994, the engine coolant gauge and the Engine Control Module (ECM) temperature sensors were combined into one sensor with 4 terminals. The basic operation remains the same in that their resistance decreases as the coolant temperature increases, however the actual resistance values of the 2 sensor circuits are different. The electrical connector of the 4-wire terminal sensor ( 1 and 2 ) is keyed to prevent improper connection of the sensor's electrical circuit.
Fig. The electrical connector for the combined temperature sensors is keyed to avoid improperly connecting the sensor's wiring-1997 2.8L V6 connector shown
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