Heater control valve location 2000 Durango

If both hoses are hot, the problem could be the inside...could be a blend door actuator

• Insufficient, erratic, or no heat

• Low engine coolant level.
• Engine overheating.
• Plugged or partially plugged heater core (18476).
• Temperature blend door binding/stuck.
• Temperature blend door actuator (19E616).
• Incorrect heater control valve (18495) operation.

• Go To Pinpoint Test I .

Are the heater hose's going through the fire wall hot ?
I2 CHECK FOR HOT WATER TO THE HEATER CORE INLET HOSE WARNING: The heater core inlet hose will become too hot to handle and may cause serious burns if the system is working correctly. Allow the engine to reach normal operating temperature. Feel the heater core inlet hose.

• Is the heater core inlet hose too hot to handle?

Yes GO to I4 .

No REFER to Section 303-03 to check cooling system function.

If you are looking for some sort of water valve that diverts water to/from the heater core, forget it. They don't exist anymore. They went away shortly after the widely adapted use of air conditioning in today's modern cars. Now, hot coolant is routed thru the heater core at all times, but is controlled by a cable-operated, or vacuum operated "blend door" located inside the heater box. If you are not getting heat to the vehicle, there are a few possible problems:

1. Bad thermostat - thus low coolant temperature and lack of heat.
2. Clogged heater core - no water flow thru core, thus no heat.
3. Broken control head - loss of cable or vacuum actuation of blend door.
4. Broken heater box/vacuum tank - no actuation of blend door.

Of the items listed above, based on the age of the vehicle and the likelihood of occurrence, I would investigate them in the order of 2, 4, 1, 3.

The heater control valve is located on the passenger side rear of the engine. It has a vacuum line hose that opens and closes the valve. Remove the vacuum line hose, start the engine with the temperature set to cold and see if there is any vacuum on the line. Then set the temperature to the HOT position and see if there is any vacuum on the line. Vacuum should be present on ONE setting only. If nothing happens check for proper vacuum to the control assembly. The valve is vacuum operated, if no vacuum is present the valve won't work.

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1: not enough liquid in the system (air in the heater core)
2: inoperative heater valve not allowing hot liquid into the core
3: hot/cold blend door in the heater box stuck on cold
4: clogged heater core
A clogged heater core will have one hot hose and one significantly cooler hose at the firewall connection; easily tested by hand. a good core will have both hoses very hot to the touch when the heater is on full blast.
Make sure that the system is full and at operating temperature, and the heater controls set on full heat. Feel the hoses at the firewall; if they are both too hot to touch then the problem is in the heater box or controls.

Either your heater control valve is not properly operating or your heater core is clogged. Locate the heater control valve under the hood, should be close to firewall on heater hose, have someone adjust temperature from hot to cold and see if you can see the heater control valve operating if so replace the heater core, if its not doing anything replace it(heater control valve).

try feeling your heater hoses going from the engine to the heater core. they should be hot at operating temperature. If one is hotter than the other noticably it would indicate a restriction in the core most likely. A partially stuck thermostat could also cause loss of heat but you say the temp is normal. Start with checking hose temperature if they are both on the cool side compared to the radiator hose then further diagnostics are necessary. hope this helps. Keep in touch.

the thermostat is either stuck open or the heater core is clogged

Jaguar S-type 2000 fabrication year is equiped with:
1. Control system = Automatic temperature control
2. System layout = Single evaporator - dual zone
3. Refrigerant circuit type = Expansion valve
General information:
1. System control
1.1. Compressor operation controlled by refrigerant pressure sensor.
1.2. Compressor will not operate if refrigerant level is low!
1.3. System incorporates an A/C evaporator temperature sensor.
1.4. System incorporates an engine coolant heater regulator valve.
1.5. A/C control module incorporates self-diagnosis function.
1.6. The A/C control module fault memory can only be accessed and erased using diagnostic equipment connected to the Data Link Connector (DLC). See picture below:
1.7. Engine Control Module (ECM) incorporates A/C related trouble codes.
1.8. Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) will iluminate if certain ECM faults are recorded.
1.9. The ECM fault memory can only be accessed and erased using diagnostic equipment connected to the Data Link Connector (DLC).
Trouble code Fault location
B1200 A/C control module - internal failure
B1251 In-car temperature sensor - open circuit
B1253 In-car temperature sensor - short to earth
B1255 Outside air temperature sensor - open circuit
B1257 Outside air temperature sensor - short to earth
B1259 A/C sunlight sensor - open circuit
B1261 A/C sunlight sensor - short to earth
B1262 A/C heater defrost flap motor - short circuit, open
circuit, short to earth
B1263 A/C heater fascia flap motor - short circuit, open
circuit, short to earth
B1264 A/C heater footwell flap motor - short circuit, open
circuit, short to earth
B1265 A/C heater air mix flap motor - short circuit, open
circuit, short to earth
B1676 Battery voltage - voltage too low / high
B1946 A/C evaporator temperature sensor - open circuit
B1947 A/C evaporator temperature sensor - short to earth
B1966 Heater output temperature sensor 2 - open circuit
B1967 Heater output temperature sensor 2 - short to earth
B2428 Heater output temperature sensor 1 - open circuit
B2429 Heater output temperature sensor 1 - short to earth
B2477 A/C control module - incorrect programming

Since your blower is working and it is a heat issue,thats where we'll start,First thing is have you checked the coolant level in the radiator when engine is cold,make sure it is filled to top,next verify you have coolant in reserve ,Start your van and get it up to normal operation temperature,If your heat gauge on the dash works correctly it should be 190 degrees,Now lift the hood and locate the two heater hoses going into the heater assembly at the fire wall,Both hoses should be hot to hold on to,if both are hot and no heat inside your problem will be the blend air door in heater assembly.
if neither hose is that hot you need to replace the thermostat in the engine to get it up to 195 degrees.
if one hose is hot and one is luke warm then the heater core is blocked and to blame. hope this helps you.