SOURCE: noise in front end, sounds
You say the rear wheel axles and bearings have been replaced, you mention nothing of the front wheels, you have the symptoms of a front wheel bearing being worn out, remove them and check for pitting in the bearing rollers or the bearing races, I am sure you will find a problem. Hope this helps solve your issue with the bearing noise.
SOURCE: 95 ford explorer, grinding noise/vibration at slow speeds.
CHECK YOUR UNIVERSAILS COULD BE WORN OR DRY U NEED TO PULL OUT THE SHAFT TO CHECK PROPLEY CHECK FOR STIFFNESS AND NOTCHEY MOVEMENT
SOURCE: 2002 ford Ranger 3.0 v6 (auto) rear end noise when accelerating on curves.
Grab the bed of the truck and vigorously rock the vehicle from side to side. If you hear clunking in the axle, you probably need to check the carrier bearings in the differential. I had the carrier bearings, wheel bearings, and seals replaced in my mother-in-law's 1991 Ranger for $280, and it rides like a new truck. Well, ok, it rides like an 18 year old truck with a new rear end. I provided the wheel bearings and seals to the shop, and they provided the carrier bearing, lube, and labor. While the axles are out, check the surface where the axles ride on the bearings. If they are worn, there are undersized bearing available, but it is usually cheaper and easier to just by new axles.
SOURCE: 2001 Chevrolet Cavalier front End Roar
You must replace wheel bearings in pairs to avoid loading the old bearing and, in time ruining your new bearing hub it is possible that you have already damaged the new hub
SOURCE: LOUD CLUNKING NOISE IN REAR WHEEL AREA WHEN TURNING LEFT
sounds like either a sway bar end link or shock, more towards the end link tho
2 Raise the front of the car with the floor jack and position the jack stands under the frame. Let the car down on the jack stands.
3 Grasp the tire on both sides and attempt to wobble it left and right; if there is any movement with no corresponding movement in the steering wheel, one or both tie rod ends are loose and need to be replaced. Have a helper wobble the tire while you slide under the car and observe the inner and outer tie rods ends. This is the link from the rack and pinion steering to the steering knuckle. Place a hand on the outer tie rod end as the tire is being moved; if you can feel freeplay, the outer joint needs to be replaced. Place a hand on the inner tie rod shaft; if you can feel it moving in and out with the movement of the tire, the inner tie rod is faulty.
4 Look at the tire for uneven wear indicating an alignment problem. Spin the tire slowly and look for flat spots, humps in the tread or wire protruding from the tread indicating a separated tire.
5 Grab the tire at the top and bottom and shake the tire in and out; if you can feel any freeplay, the hub bearing is bad and needs replacement.
6 Place the pry bar under the tire. Lift up and release several times; if the tire can be lifted with very little pressure the lower ball joint is bad and needs replacing.
7 Remove the tire/wheel assembly. Place your hand on the coil spring on the strut and have a helper turn the steering wheel to the left and right; if you can feel any grinding, the top bearing cap on top of the strut is defective and needs to be replaced.
8 Inspect the strut for leakage around the seals. Replace if they are leaking.
9 Inspect the brake pads and rotors for wear and replace as necessary.
10 Inspect the sway bar front bushing where it is mounted under the radiator and make sure it is in place. Inspect the sway bar links on the ends of the sway bar where they connect to the lower control arm. They consist of a long bolt with a series of rubber bushings held on to the lower control arm by a nut. Replace these if they are loose or have any worn parts. They are a major noise problem
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