Where is vacuum canister located on a 2000 ford expedition suv

https://www.f150forum.com/f12/hvac-vacuum-line-2000-f150-4-2-a-447725/

This site will help. A bad canister will not hold enough vacuum un acceleration. Also possible restricted hose going into canister, or the one way vacuum valve is bad.

Make sure the coolant is full. Check it both cold and hot. The res bottle has lines on it. If it's full then the door between the outside fresh air and the heater box isn't closing all the way when you turn the knob over to hot. I'm not sure if this is Vacuum operated or electrical. Ford used to be all Vacuum but times are changing.

if blend door works blower working check make sure you have enough coolant because suvs holds right much antifreeze.heater not working heater core plugged make sure both heater core hoses hot to touch if so problem could be temperature mode switch.

Continuous Memory Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P0446 or P1450 indicates that Self-Test has detected the Evaporative Emission Control System has excessive fuel tank vacuum. Also, a DTC P0446 indicates a vent control malfunction.

Possible causes:

EVAP canister purge outlet tube (EVAP canister purge valve to EVAP canister) blockages or kinks.

EVAP canister tube (fuel tank to EVAP canister) blockages or kinks.

Fuel vapor elbow on EVAP canister contaminated.

Restricted EVAP canister.

Canister vent (CV) solenoid stuck closed (partially or fully).

Plugged or contaminated CV solenoid filter.

EVAP canister purge valve stuck open.

Fuel filler cap stuck closed (no vacuum relief).

VREF circuit open in fuel tank pressure (FTP) sensor.

Damaged FTP sensor. (fuel tank pressure)

Check for kinks or bends in the fuel vapor hoses/tubes (EVAP canister purge outlet tube and EVAP canister tube).

Visually inspect EVAP canister inlet port, CV solenoid filter and canister vent hose assembly for contamination or debris.

Check CV solenoid filter for blockage or contamination.

The common things I've seen are are mud in the canister and the canister vent solenoid being shot or the wiring to the canister vent solenoid being torn off. The resistance of the solenoid should be 48-65 ohms..
Pick up a Chiltons book and will give you a diagram of where exactly you find the canister. They are like $15 at any auto store. Good luck

The hoses don't go through the firewall, they connect to the pipes of the heater core under the cowl in the engine compartment. The size should be marked on the outside of the hoses.

Check the vacuum hoses from the switch to the engine compartment. If you manually operate the heater valve on the firewall (follow the 5/8" hose) you will get heat.

Try bleeding the air out of the system again. This truck has the radiator cap located lower than the heater core & upper hose and easily traps air pockets in it. It also helps to park on a slight incline and have a helper bring the rpm's up while "burping" the system.

Have had the same problem 2000 ford expedition. got it working good now

it could be many things it could be a bad EGR - valve are a vaccum leak or a bad fuel injection or engine control systems malfunction on my 2000- Expedition i replace the intake manifold itself and the gasket the best thing to do if its that is to get the whole thing from Napa with gaskets its not that hard to do go to your local library and get your hands on a Haynes auto repair manual for your SUV also give these websites a try www.alldatadiy.com and www.autozone.com wish you the best of luck and let me know what it was Michigan Man.

yes it sounds like your switch and its in the steering column try these websites www.autozone.com and www.alldatadiy.com if all fail stop by your local library and get your hands on a Haynes auto repair manual for your SUV i have one for my 2000 ford Expedition and it has help me out with a lot of things wish you the best of luck Michigan Man.