I changed the motor and transmission from one to the other .I went from and automatic to a 5 speed manual changed motor harness now the car will not start turn key and nothing new battiery can you give me any advice matic

The electronics in the auto and manual cars are different (and complex)and it is not just a matter of pulling out the auto and installing a manual box and clutch as you would in a car from the 1970s.
You will have numerous problems if you attempt the install like this.
You would need a box from a 2002 model and you would need to change the ECU and wiring harness and numerous other items also from the 2002 model..

When you changed the motor and transmission, did you use the gearshift control assembly that came with the motor and transmission that you installed?

Or did you do an exact match-up of motor for motor / transmission for transmission and re-use the original gearshift control assembly?

Predicated that the transmission is used, like from a junk yard and had been sitting, it may be defective; or it's just a matter of readjusting the cables from the shifter control assembly to the crossover cables to the gear shift selector at the transmission.

That model production year included a 5-speed manual w/OD transmission; 3-speed automatic; and a 4 speed auto w/OD.

If you don't mind me asking what did you remove from the car?...and what did you replace it with?

From the tear of the car I guess you have the 4-speed automatic. That transmission is not one of the most reliable ones...it has an internal wiring harness with relays attached to it, that are in control of what gear to select, based on input from an internal speed sensor, engine speed sensor and wheel speed sensor. There is also an issue with VW claiming that the transmission "is filled for life", which is absolute B.S. You have to change the transmission fluid and the filter at least every 60K or you will face an expensive rebuild. Have your mechanic scan the computer for fault codes related to the transmission and change the fluid and filter when the problem got fixed.

Depends on your engine.

1980 JEEP CJ-7 2.5L 4-cyl Engine Code [B]
CAPACITIES
Engine, GM without filter..........2.4 quarts[1]
Wix Filter ........ 51040
Cooling System, Initial Fill..........8.0 quarts
Automatic Transmission, A904, 30RH Initial Fill..........4.0 quarts[2]
Automatic Transmission, A999, 32RH Initial Fill..........4.0 quarts[2]
Automatic Transmission, Total Fill
3 speed A999, 32RH..........8.4 quarts
3 speed A904, 30RH..........7.0 quarts
Manual Transmission, 4-SPD, SR-4..........3.0 pints
Manual Transmission, 4-SPD, T176..........3.6 pints
Differential, Front..........2.5 pints[3]
Differential, Rear..........4.9 pints
Transfer Case,..........4.0 pints

1. Add extra oil when replacing filter. After refill check oil level.
2. With engine automatic transmission operating temperature, shift through all gears.
Check fluid level in NEUTRAL and add fluid as needed.
3. 1984-1992 Models with command-Track, add 5 oz of 75W-90 GL-5 to shift motor housing opening.

TORQUES
Oil Drain Plug.....25 ft-lbs
Manual Transmission T176
Fill Plug.....15 ft-lbs
Drain Plug.....15 ft-lbs
Manual Transmission SR4
Fill Plug.....20 ft-lbs

1980 JEEP CJ-7 4.2L 6-cyl Engine Code [C]
CAPACITIES
Engine, without filter..........5.0 quarts[1]
Wix Filter..... 51522
Cooling System, Initial Fill..........11.0 quarts
Automatic Transmission, A904, 30RH Initial Fill..........4.0 quarts[2]
Automatic Transmission, A999, 32RH Initial Fill..........4.0 quarts[2]
Automatic Transmission, Total Fill
3 speed A999, 32RH..........8.4 quarts
3 speed A904, 30RH..........7.0 quarts
Manual Transmission, 4-SPD, SR-4..........3.0 pints
Manual Transmission, 4-SPD, T176..........3.6 pints
Differential, Front..........2.5 pints[3]
Differential, Rear..........4.9 pints
Transfer Case,..........4.0 pints

1. Add extra oil when replacing filter. After refill check oil level.
2. With engine automatic transmission operating temperature, shift through all gears.
Check fluid level in NEUTRAL and add fluid as needed.
3. 1984-1992 Models with command-Track, add 5 oz of 75W-90 GL-5 to shift motor housing opening.

TORQUES
Oil Drain Plug.....30 ft-lbs
Manual Transmission T176
Fill Plug.....15 ft-lbs
Drain Plug.....15 ft-lbs
Manual Transmission SR4
Fill Plug.....20 ft-lbs

1980 JEEP CJ-7 5.0L 8-cyl Engine Code [H]
CAPACITIES
Engine, without filter..........4.0 quarts[1]
Wix Filter..... 51258
Cooling System, Initial Fill..........13.0 quarts
Automatic Transmission, A999, 32RH Initial Fill..........4.0 quarts[2]
Automatic Transmission, A904, 30RH Initial Fill..........4.0 quarts[2]
Automatic Transmission, Total Fill
3 speed A904, 30RH..........7.0 quarts
3 speed A999, 32RH..........8.4 quarts
Manual Transmission, 4-SPD, SR-4..........3.0 pints
Manual Transmission, 4-SPD, T176..........3.6 pints
Differential, Front..........2.5 pints[3]
Differential, Rear..........4.9 pints
Transfer Case,..........4.0 pints

1. Add extra oil when replacing filter. After refill check oil level.
2. With engine automatic transmission operating temperature, shift through all gears.
Check fluid level in NEUTRAL and add fluid as needed.
3. 1984-1992 Models with command-Track, add 5 oz of 75W-90 GL-5 to shift motor housing opening.

TORQUES
Manual Transmission T176
Fill Plug.....15 ft-lbs
Drain Plug.....15 ft-lbs
Manual Transmission SR4
Fill Plug.....20 ft-lbs

Oilman

-5 Speed Transmission

-Clutch/Pressure plate/Flywheel/Hardware

-Clutch cable

-Manual pedal assembly with same options as your car (Cruise control for example)

-Front, side, and rear transmission mount brackets from 5 speed car, and the actual mount for the rear (Regardless of what people say, it is not needed to drop the rear x-member to do this rear mount, but if you don't have a decent set of tools, you may have to do this to get to the rear bolt.)

-Manual axles. I think auto axles will work.

-5 speed throttle cable to match the the 5 speed pedal assembly

-Auto speedo cable will work.

-Connect the 2 larger black wires that go to the shift position switch in the automatic. These wires are for the starter. In the auto car, they are only connected when the car is in nuetral or park. Solder these two wires together and heat shrink. Use a **** connector if you want to just ghetto rig it together.

-You will get a code 19 and a "check engine light". This is for the torque converter lock up solenoid on the PS9 auto ECU (For my D16A6 Motor anyway, the 1.5 may have a different auto ECU). The car will still run and drive fine, but getting the manual ECU for you car, and cutting off the auto wiring from the harness will eliminate this issue.

-You will need to ground the Green/White wire from the shift indicator switch, this indicates that the car is in "park", and will allow you to remove the ignition key. The alternative is to swap to the 5 speed ignition switch, but you may not want to end up having separate ignition, and door keys if your car currently uses one key.

I have a HF 5 Speed ecu and a few other parts to if you need them

Price is hard to tell because of price of parts and places vary to do these swaps. Shops around here will covert a auto to manual for anywhere from 500-800 bucks labor only.

Changing from a 1992 to a 1997 < WILL NOT Be EASY , As you must HAVE the ENTIRE ENGINE WIRING HARNESS , And ALSO the ECM for the older Set up. In the "5" YEARS there Were MANY CHANGES to the ENGINE Components= SENSORS and ACTUATERS .
its just a BETTER IDEA to Stay Whitin a year or 2 when Swaping ENGINES. SIZE OF SENSORS ETC. MAKES IT DIFICULT

a np241 from a th400/4l80e would have the 32 spline that is need for a manual trans, one from a 700r4/4l60e is 27 spline input, in 94 the switch was changed and the cam to activate the switch was changed so if you get a 94 np241 you then will need to wire in a 94 switch into the older harness

Transmission
fluid
Motorcraft SAE
75W-90 gear oil
(non-synthetic)
Manual transaxle 3.0 quarts
(2.87L)3
Motorcraft FNR5
Automatic
Transmission
Fluid
5–speed
automatic
transaxle
7 quarts (6.7L)4
Premium
Automatic
Transmission
Fluid
6–speed
automatic
transaxle
7.4 quarts
(7.0L