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Anonymous Posted on Oct 11, 2012

How can i tell if the throw out bearing is gone in my transmission

I have already changed master and slave cylinder and car still will not shift and i bled the lines correctly there is no air in the lines

1 Answer

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  • Expert 156 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 06, 2012
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You won't be able to put it in any gear or when stepping on clutch pedal you'll have a load noise

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 18 Answers
  • Posted on May 15, 2009

SOURCE: How to bleed a slave cylinder on a Saturn?

tyhe bleeder is down on the transmision

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Anonymous

  • 28 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 29, 2009

SOURCE: 92 saturn sl1 shifts hard

go to www.saturnfans.com

Anonymous

  • 2 Answers
  • Posted on May 04, 2009

SOURCE: need to know how to bleed it

There would be a bleed nipple on it. It would be located near the bellhousing.
Open nipple a little let fluod seep out until no bubbles in it. Make sure you top the fluid up and dont let it empty.

Anonymous

  • 538 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 09, 2010

SOURCE: I just had someone replace my clutch, master and

Loosen the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder and allow it to gravity bleed, with the cover off the master. DO NOT pump the pedal while you do this and make sure you don't allow the master cylinder to get run dry. Watch for bubbles coming out of the slave when you are getting a steady stream or steady drip, no air, tighten the bleeder. Now fill the master to the proper level, some have a full line down in the reservoir, put the cap on the master and try the clutch, you may have to pump the pedal a bit, maybe a dozen or two times, to get the clutch to work right. I've done it this way, lots of times, on all kinds of vehicles it seems to work for me. If it won't gravity bleed you may have to get a piece of clear plastic line that will fit snug on the bleeder and try to syphon it. Use clear plastic line so you don't get brake fluid in your mouth, you can see the fuild coming. You can buy that line at most hardware stores I suggest about 6 feet or so.

Testimonial: "It is working better I just have to pump it a few time before going into 1st gear. Once I get going it's shifts fine. Thanks!"

emissionwiz

Marvin

  • 85242 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 24, 2011

SOURCE: I have a 2003 Saturn ion and the clutch quit

The clutch master and slave should ALWAYS be replaced as one repair that said the slave is always the first one to fail due to heat, the reason both should be replaced is this, debris from the failed cylinder will ruin the new cylinder, I have learned this over the last 35 years as a dealer technician. The slave is a direct acting unit, that means it sits on the input shaft collar of the transmission and is also the release bearing for the clutch disk. The transmission must be removed to replace the slave cylinder, the parts are about $375.00 for both master and slave. If you have it done since the transmission is removed the clutch pressure plate and disk should also be replaced as well as having the flywheel refaced.

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I just finished putting on a new gear box and clutch kit for and when i started it and put it on gear it was so low and soft and a loud noise after that... I just want to know why did it do that pls?

So you installed a new transmission and a whole new clutch kit? Did the kit include the pressure plate, clutch, throw out bearing and slave cylinder? Did you bleed the slave cylinder? The low and soft pedal is a clear sign that there is air in the hydraulic system. The loud noise after that tells me you're either grinding the gear trying to shift or there is a problem inside the transmission itself. If you installed everything correctly and torqued all the bolts correctly in the clutch assembly and transmission, then try bleeding the slave cylinder again, sometimes air gets trapped in the cylinder and it's hard to get out, If you let the clutch master cylinder run dry while you either had the clutch apart or while you were bleeding the clutch, then you have to start from scratch and re-bleed the whole system.
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Master/Slave cylinder issues, check fluid levels of brake fluid reservoir and bleed system where it attaches to the transmission.
Have someone push on the clutch pedal as you watch for movement of the clutch fork where the Slave cylinder attaches to the transmission. If the Fork moves then it is either bent or slipped off the throw-out bearing, the throw-out bearing is seized maybe, the clutch disk itself could be worn or the syncro-mesh teeth inside the transmission are worn from missing gears while shifting.
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The clutch was having a hard time going into gear.All of a sudden there was a high pitched squeal/scream coming from the transmission area.

that sounds like a throw out bearing failure-is there any adjustment at the slave cylinder-it may be holding the bearing against the clutch and causing the noise-this thread may help-http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/how-change-bleed-clutch-slave-cylinder-511531/- cheers Denny
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I have a 2000 mazda 323 with a manual transmission. i have already change the clutch kit but the gear is still hard to shift

Check the hydraulic clutch operation. This is a clutch master cylinder with a reservoir on the firewall, and a clutch slave cylinder down on the bell housing of the transmission, with a steel tube running from the master to the slave cylinder. When clutch pedal is depressed, hydraulic fluid (brake fluid) is forced from the master to the slave. The slave cylinder should push out a little plunger that contacts the clutch fork lever-pushing it forward to engage the clutch.
Add brake fluid to the reservoir if needed. Watch the plunger on the slave cylinder: if it moves little, or not enough, try bleeding the slave from the bleeder valve. They are bled just like brakes. If bleeding doesn't help, your clutch master or the slave may need replacing. The master cylinder, like a brake master, has internal seals that hold hydraulic pressure, so force can be applied to the plunger on the slave cylinder.
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Well, it would shift easily with engine off, because the transmission input shaft is not turning. Engine running and clutch engaging good, the input shaft would again be stationary and allow smooth shifting.
What you have to determine is if the clutch disc or pressure plate is bad (a new clutch is needed), or if the pedal hydraulic system has a malfunction. When you push the pedal down, a rod from the top of pedal pushes into the clutch master cylinder bolted to the firewall under the hood. This cylinder has a reservoir filled with brake fluid. When the rod forces fluid from the clutch master down a steel line and into the clutch slave cylinder down on the transmission bell housing, the hydraulic pressure forces a plunger from the slave cylinder to extend and push the clutch fork lever a small amount, enough to force the clutch release bearing (aka throw-out bearing) against the pressure plate. This relieves pressure on the clutch disc and input shaft becomes stationary for easy shifting.
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Yes. First, are there 2 master cylinders under the hood? If so, there is a slave cylinder by the transmission, under the car.
The larger master cylinder should be for your brakes, and it should have about maybe 4 or 6 brake lines attached to it.
The clutch master cylinder should usually have one brake line attached to it.
If you will follow that brake line down, you should find the slave cylinder at the other (lower) end of it.
As far as whether it needs changing, these two things will tell. Does it leak or stick?
From your description, sounds like it is sticking.
Be advised, you might also have a problem inside your transmission bell housing with the clutch, the throwout bearing, or something else.
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