I have a 2005 dodge caravan with a 3.8lt no spark to #1 & #4 replaced coil . replaced pcm. tested wires from pcm 2 wire work fine flash when cranking cut the db/dg wire at the pcm it has a constant ground on it . what would cause the pcm to be grounded at all time on this wire ?

Hi mate start at the easiest point which will be to check your EARTH to make sure everything is earthed.

replacing PCM is the last, why do that. which jeep,? wrangler? GC?
ECU is not bad and is almost always (GIGO) garbage in ,nets garbage out, now and for ever....
all most all errors are
1: input errors.
2: or bad output actuators or gee the engine it self.

now lets work
2302
ever see this>? or the FSM, the FSM book is way cheaper than any knee jerk ECU swap.. ouch.
http://engine-codes.com/p2302.html
out of FSM. actual
(F342) ASD OUTPUT CIRCUIT
(K19) COIL CONTROL 1 CIRCUIT OPEN
(K19) COIL CONTROL 1 CIRCUIT SHORTED TO GROUND
COIL
PCM (last ) never 1st ever....
so the coil pack is 4 pins and 3 coils, one one is hot key on.
the other 3 are 3 coils, coil 1 is bad,,
from a pure tech stand point its.
1: bad coil (open or shorted) bad wires, open or shorted or bad ECU.
we never condemn any ECU unless we do the simple lamp tests.
etc. case in point below.
here are the FSM steps, so easy to do.... (truncated, read your FSM)
1: coil 1 removed, connector.
key on is pin 2, 12v, if no fix that first. ( bad power distra. or fuse)
yes, 12v. so.
then, use a test lamp to pin 3 and ground
Pin 3 is COIL 1, !
crank car , does light flash? (any small 12v lamp works) 0.1 amps are less.
1: yes, flash PCM good, coil bad.
no?
test lamp tests continue....
2: stuck on lamp , wire is grounded out or bad PCM (pull PCM C2 conn, ? still tuck on?, yes, bad harness !
3: stuck lamp off? . this is harness wire cut or PCM bad.-
check continuity end to end on this wire. if good , bad ECU.
on a car with nice clean harnesses, no damage to conn?
its a bad coil.
the coil can in fact can be bench tested...
that to, is in the books.
(ohms tests, and make real spark) do so but do not exceed max dwell on the coil "smoke tested boom."( you need a pulse generator , or coil tester)
easy to make them .
there you go.... ECU last. for ever and ever.....

V-6 I ASSUME? MORE THAN LIKELY, 3 COIL PACKS CONTROL 2 CYLINDERS EACH. MAKE SURE YOU ARE GETTING A SPARK FROM THE ONE THAT CONTROLS 1 &4...OR ALL WIRING IS INTAVT
** IF THIS IS A 4 CYL. SAME THING...LESS COIL PACKS IE: ONE COIL PACK FOR 174 AND ONE FOR 2 & 3

Ouch! A case of the raucous rodent! I've been there...Not fun trying to track down and repair all the damage.

First of all, let me explain how the code sets: The computer monitors the PRIMARY side of the coil to determine the burn time on the SECONDARY side of the coil. This can be a little confusing. The code will set when the computer determines that secondary ionization (burn time) was too short, too long, or did not occur at all.
If you have confirmed that there is no spark at the spark plug wires, then that is why the code is setting...ionization is not occurring at all. What can be a little confusing is that this can be caused by a failure in the PRIMARY coil circuit even though the code is indicating that the computer is having a problem with the SECONDARY circuit. (The secondary circuit can malfunction even though the primary side is functioning perfectly, but if the primary side malfunctions, the secondary side ALSO malfunctions - it is impossible for the secondary side to work if the primary side is not working.)

So, I said all that to tell you this: I think you have pretty much eliminated the entire secondary side of the ignition by replacing the whole circuit. So the problem must be on the primary side. (Probably more chewed wires)
There are 4 wires going to your ignition coil. The BROWN/WHITE wire comes from the ASD RElay and supplies battery voltage to the coil assembly. Since the other four cylinders are firing, This wire has to be OK.
The code you are getting is for coil #2. This coil is controlled by computer through the DARK BLUE/TAN wire. If you disconnect your coil connector and probe this wire with a test light connected to the POSITIVE battery post, it should "blink" when to crank the engine over. My guess is that it will not be blinking. You can do this also on the BROWN/ORANGE (coil #1) wire and the DARK BLUE/DARK GREEN (coil #3) wire to see the difference.

Anyway, if the DARK BLUE/TAN wire does not blink, then the wire is broken (chewed?) between the coil and the PCM.

Try this firing order sequence and see if everything is as seen here.
Firing Order:
1-2-3-4-5-6

Cylinders:
........(back).......
'...1....3....5...'
______________
'...2....4....6...'

Ignition Coil:
.......(back)
.....connection
...........'
..........V
5........1........3
2........4........6
.......(front)

2005 CARAVAN 3.3L.
Van misfires, code says coil three . change out with new a cam sensor , injector, wires , plugs and of coarse coil. What is left and why would the pcm just have a problem with # 3.
ps i checked the compression and all six cylinders have 165. lbs.

I would replace the coil pack. common to fail,

------>>>FRONT>>>>of Van >>>>

______________________________
#5 cyl #6 cyl

#3 cyl #4 cyl

#1 cyl #2 cyl
______________________________
_________________
I COIL BLOCK I
I I
I #3 #1 #5 I
I I
I I Firing Order Is
I I 1 2 3 4 5 6
I #6 #4 #2 I
I _______________I_

the Wires Go Accordingly to prospective Terminals, So Sorry Unable to Send Pics through FixYa, A Formating Problem Exists
and they show on my end but not on your end this is TRUE and CORRECT To The BOOK other than the Lines from Coil to Spark Plug ENDS at CYLINDERS. Please dont Forget to RATE Me
Thank You And Happy Motoring!!