Our 2006 Cobalt LS Coupe has an intermittent problem when trying to start the car. Sometimes the car starts normally. Sometimes it sounds like its going to start but then stalls. Other times it starts but seems to be misfiring. No error codes (check engine light off). I have already repaired the broken automatic transmission shifter problem that prevented us from removing the key from the ignition switch. Any help would be appreciated.
Sounds about right, probably is ignition switch, reason you don't get codes is because if power is'nt connecting to engine while problems occurs then ecm won't pick it up. you should have 2 ignition switches, (the lock cylinder and key switch, the other is the electrical, usually located under the dash, and commonly atttatched to the column close to the firewall, check connections first, it may just be a loose plug in connection
SOURCE: Chevy Cobalt: key stuck in ignition
For me, this problem was covered by my chevy dealership since it involves a recalled part. Apparently we aren't alone :) thank god
SOURCE: cobalt engine misfires
I can think of a couple of possible things to check.
When is the last time you put in new spark plugs? Ever? Check them. The problem may simply be worn out spark plugs. Likewise, a bad spark plug cable could cause misfires. Yet that is rather unlikely considering your car's low mileage.
Check the connections of all of the rubber vacuum lines which are attached to the top of the engine and which then are attached elsewhere. A vacuum leak due to loose fitting connections can make it hard to start the car. Likewise a vacuum leak can also cause the lean fuel code since the intake manifold no longer generates as strong of a vacuum as it should.
Virtually all cars have a Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve located somewhere on the cylinder head cover. The big rubber grommet around the PCV valve is a common cause of vacuum leaks. Check that the PCV valve is making a snug fit inside of this rubber grommet. While you are at it, pull the PCV valve out of the grommet and make sure that it isn't stopped up. A stopped up PCV valve is very unlikely if you have been good about regularly changing your car's oil.
Check that the clamps for the big hose running from the top of the engine to the air filter housing are snug. And, of course, check that the air filter isn't extremely dirty or stopped up with debris.
It is possible that the mass air flow sensor is defective or has gone bad, but I highly doubt this since your car has very low mileage. Besides, a bad mass air flow sensor on any modern car should produce an error code.
A dirty fuel filter or a weak fuel pump could cause starting problems, and might even cause stalling and misfire problems -- especially when driving uphill. Yet I don't think that this is the problem. Just something to keep in mind as a possibility.
It is possible that the ignition module is either defective or has prematurely gone bad. Usually a good sign of the ignition module going bad is an increasing rate of misfires as the engine gets warmed up. Start the car and let it idle and warm up. If the rate of misfires increases as the engine warms up to normal operating temperature, then it is likely that the ignition module is close to completely giving up the ghost.
Finally, make sure that all bolts connecting the intake manifold and air bell
atop the intake manifold are tight. Again, the idea is to get rid of
vacuum leaks. This is unlikely, but worth checking. These bolts should never be tightened more than the specified torque values.
Well, these are just some common things which should initially be checked. Assuming that the spark plugs and plug wires are good and considering your car's low mileage, I am betting on either a vacuum leak or a failing ignition module. The latter can be tested by a mechanic who uses an oscilloscope to look for missing ignition module pulses.
SOURCE: 2006 cobalt LS won't start
did you try jumping it your battery could have enough volts to power your accessories but not enough to power your starter.so i would try that before you go out and buy anything.
SOURCE: Batterty dead. Check engine light/Antifreeze pouring
The main problem could be a well known cobalt ignition issue. check all fuses, wires, and connections if you've worked on cars before and call to see if you still have any warranty left. This should be handled by a chevy dealer or chevy trained mechanic...to isolate the issue fast and avoid repeat visits to get er done.
SOURCE: Start of day. Engine starts and runs fine. Drive 5
There are usually three things that cause this problem. Either 1. your car is intermittenly having the power supply to the ignition interrupted, i.e., loose battery cable or ground, or ignition module, etc 2. your alternator is failing intermittenly, or 3. Your fuel pump is going out. The most common is the fuel pump, especially with your symptoms. The way you test, is, when it won't start, shoot a little fuel into the throttle body, and see if it hits and dies, or hits and keeps going, etc. These things are notoriously intermittent, and of course, you can only troubleshoot something when it's currently not working. As for the alternator, you'll usually have some other warning sign, such as a battery light, or failure of instruments, etc. As for the ignition module, it's more of a remote chance that I included as an option. Hope this helps you out.
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I forgot to add that I installed a new battery as a knee **** type reaction since the car was 6 yrs old. I kind of doubt the high voltage spark plug wires are bad otherwise the car wouldn't run normally and then not crank at all. I am starting to suspect a bad ignition switch. At times I can turn the switch to turn over the starter, turn the switch back to the off position and the solenoid of the starter stays engaged still turning the engine over.
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