Charging proble 1999 chevy 3500 van

Question edited for clarity and add some punctuation.
Question moved to model category.

For strangeness like that, you need an auto electrician with a professional grade scan tool computer to check for diagnostic trouble codes. They can also record what happens after 5 or 10 minutes when the light comes on.

Some ideas in the link

https://www.google.com/search?q=1997+dodge+3500+charging+light+comes+on+after+10+minutes

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The engine stops because the computer does not recognize the new key. You must find a way to get the truck and technician with right equipment in the same place ( usually the dealership service ). I do not know of any alternative.

Have you checked alternator output to see if it is getting from the alternator to the battery ? Could be a blown fuseable link or other wiring issue.

Does the battery light work when you switch the ignition on? This provides a live feed to the alternator via the ignition bulb, the rotor needs a live feed to start the charge process, if the bulb has blown it won't charge (thin wire connected to the IND on the alternator). To check for a power drain, disconnect the negative battery lead put a AMP meter in series, (DON'T TRY TO START, YOU WILL BLOW THE METER). If you get a reading above 0.05amps (clock) you have a drain, pull the fuses one at a time and watch for a drop in the meter reading. Hope this helps.

When you say charging,do you mean amp reading or volt reading?Amps should rise when first started then drop.Volts should stay close to constant.The small wire going to the alternator to power the regulator in the alternator is just switched power.If the volts fall under 14 after ten minutes you may need to try a replacement alternator.

well...whenever the battery light comes on in a vehicle its almost always a charging problem,i would suggest replacing the alternator and charging the battery before starting it,alternators were meant to keep a battery charged NOT charge a battery, hope this helps

If you havent replaced the battery I would start there. If the battery has a dead cell in it then it will effectively remove the charge that your alternator is putting out causing your vehicle to stop running because it has no power. I would jump start the car without the battery hook up and remove the cables and see if it runs that way. If it does you have a bad battery.

Ck the charge rate at the battery posts. The proper range is 23.6 to 14.2v , The higher the voltage the llower the amps. Ie; at 13v Alternator is about 10% under capacity. @ 12v it is charging at max capacity. @ 15 v isthe alt is not charging but frying your battery. 9amps is ok if battery is fairly charged but at start up it should sit on 13-13.6 volts. for about 15 seconds the start climbing to less charge towards 14.2.

It should stay running. If your alternator is bad it may not stay running but in all cases it should stay running.

It could be the alternator or possibly a short somewhere. Make sure that there arent any lites staying on under the good or somewhere that could be draining your battery. When ya sit and idle..turn the wheel sharply to the left then the right..if it dies then a cable may intruding on your wiring.