Oil leaks
SOURCE: Where is the oil pressure sending unit located on
Removal & Installation
Oil pressure sending unit
To install:
SOURCE: How to replace headlights on 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee
One long bolt at the top - requires a 7mm socket to remove the bolt. The light housing will pry out with a screw driver. There are three ball and socket type connectors that hold the housing in and I just pryed off the plastic housing carefully and "balls" pop out of the sockets. Finally, I was replacing the faded plastic housing and it came with a new wiring harness. It's impossible to reach the connector to use the new wiring harness that comes with the new plastic light housing. So just use the existing wiring harness with the new light assembly.
SOURCE: 2000 jeep grand cherokee 4.0 liter engine timing belt replacement
If you have the same pulley arrangement that most 4.0 engines have that pulley is an idler not a tensioner. Your power steering pump has a pivot bolt, and a slide under the pump. You adjust belt tension using the pump.
SOURCE: how to change oil pressure sending unit on jeep
First things first do you have a repair manual? If you don't have one get one, Changing the unit is realitively simple, you just disconnect the battery, disconnect the oil pressure sending unit's electrical connector, remove the sending unit, now most sending units are small and look like a short chubby spark plug with an electrical blade connector on the end of it. simply use a wrench to loosin and remove and install by screwing in and tightening and reconnecting the electrical connecter then the battery and your as good as new!
SOURCE: 2001 jeep grand cherokee. no leaks losing coolant,
Most serious item I see is oil pressure. Put a mechanical gauge on the engine and get an accurate reading. Also make sure that the passage to the sender isn't blocked. If you did the pump yourself, did you find any coolant in the oil? In 99% of all low oil pressure situations, the oil pump has not failed. Rather, either a cam bearing or crank/rod bearing is worn. You do not have to have one spun or completely worn out bearing. Even wear of all bearings that is somewhat excessive can bleed off enough pressure to cause problems (plastigage the engine bearings to determine wear).
As far as coolant loss. A cylinder head gasket can fail between cylinders, into a water passage, into an oil passage or any combination of those and externally as well. The cylinder heads on engines beginning in about '98 are prone to "micro-cracking" which can lead to all kinds of hard to diagnose coolant loss problems. It may help if you have a shop do a dye test and a hydrocarbon test on the cooling system and see what they find.
I have seen several kinds of block sealing systems available. Though I generally do not recommend them, as the longevity of the repair isn't predictable, you could try that as a option of last resort.
There is no quick easy solution to your problem but with a bit of "poking around" you may be able to cure it. Don't bother repairing one problem before finding out what the other one is first though as together, it might be smarter to replace the engine.
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