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Greg Simpson Posted on Jul 19, 2012
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1986 honda 1.5 fuel injec. the camshaft broke inhalf between no.1cyl.and no.2cyl. How did this happen?

Only the valves on the no.1 cyl. move.The distributor rotor is not turnjng too.I wasnt driving the car when it stopped running.

1 Answer

Stephen

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  • Honda Master 21,873 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 20, 2012
 Stephen
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Joined: Jun 22, 2012
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If the engine is original, it could be from old age. The camshaft could have been cracked for many months before finally breaking.
One of the cam bearings may have seized up from lack of oil.
One of the valves may have stuck or broke and jammed the cam lobe.

5 Related Answers

emissionwiz

Marvin

  • 85242 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 28, 2008

SOURCE: honda accord 1996 v6 2.7 liter,rpm gage jump up and down

Here is the most common cause of surges and stalls, it is the idle speed control air-bypass valve and throttle valve, they get full of gunk over the miles and cause idle issues (stalls) like yours, Get a can of intake cleaner from any local parts store, not carb spray, intake cleaner, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake.

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Anonymous

  • 37 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 08, 2009

SOURCE: 91 honda civic dx. Starts, runs for a few seconds then stalls

Try pounding on the gas tank with a rubber mallet or similar tool. (careful not to dent the tank) Try starting it. If it runs, replace the fuel pump (it's nfg). I've diagnosed numerous fuel pumps this way. Remember the pump needs to be replaced, if you drive it, you don't know when it'll fail for good. Hope this helps. Please post the results.

Anonymous

  • 15 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 25, 2009

SOURCE: 93 accord stalled while driving....

pull one of the plugs out leave the plug wire on it and rest it on something metal on the car and have someone try to turn it over.if no spark can be seen try changing your crankshaft sensor

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Oct 27, 2009

SOURCE: wont rev over 3000 rpms in any gear

Try disconect the battery from the car. Wait a minute and reconnect. This should reset the computer. This happened
to my moms Honda FR-V. The mechanic had seen it before.
Its worth a try.

Jerry Parmanand

  • 449 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 17, 2009

SOURCE: my 2002 honda accord check engine light has been

You did part of the tune up what about spark plug wires and spark plugs? change these also

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1answer

I have 99 bmw 323i.i ran it hot and got prob fixed and now the eml and a triangle with circle around it comes on dash and car has no power.feels like it has a rev limiter.wats wrong with my car

have throttle body checked also the MDK throttle motor,
make sure that the dealer has followed service bulletin 12 07 99 for procedure to replace the MDK throttle motor
also have them check for codes,here are some codes,
it could be an expensive job,have them check everything,it is most likely the throttle motor,,throttle body is 600 if they switch it,dont let them do it without checking throttle motor,
codes,
MS41, MS42 and MS43 engine DME bmw codes...
• 1 Ignition coil Cyl 2
• 2 Ignition coil Cyl 4
• 3 Ignition coil Cyl 6
• 5 Fuel injector Cyl 2
• 6 Fuel injector Cyl 1
• 8 Air Flow Meter (HFM)
• 10 Coolant Temperature Sensor
• 11 Tank Pressure Sensor (EVAP System) or Radiator Outlet Temp (MS43)
• 12 TPS or Plausibility - Maximum Coolant Temp (MS43)
• 13 Plausibility- Radiator Outlet Temp
• 14 Intake Air Temperature Sensor
• 15 Plausibility - Cut Out Time
• 16 AirCon Compressor - PWM Signal or Plausibility Intake Air Temp (MS43)
• 17 Plausibility - Engine Coolant Temp
• 18 EWS Signal or Camshaft Sensor (MS43)
• 19 Activation VANOS Inlet Valve or Exhaust Valve (MS43)
• 20 "CHECK ENGINE" Light Failure
• 21 VANOS -Electrical Fault or Activation VANOS Inlet Valve (MS43)
• 22 Fuel Injector Cyl 3
• 23 Fuel Injector Cyl 6
• 24 Fuel Injector Cyl 4
• 25 Lambda Sensor Heater -Bank 1
• 27 Idle Control Valve - Malfunction
• 29 Ignition Coil Cyl 1
• 30 Ignition Coil Cyl 3
• 31 Ignition Coil Cyl 5
• 33 Fuel Injector Cyl 5
• 35 Aux. Air Injection System Relay
• 36 DME Main Relay
• 37 DME Main Relay : Delay
• 38 Clutch Switch -Plausibility
• 39 Brake Light Switch or Brake Light Test Switch
• 40 Brake Light Switch or Pedal Value Signal
• 42 Multi Function Steering Wheel- Plausibility
• 43 Multi Function Steering Wheel: Button
• 45 Multi Function Steering Wheel: Port
• 47 Temp Sensor -Downstream of Pre-Cat or Torque Limitation Level 1 (MS43)
• 48 DME Control Unit -Self Test 1
• 49 DME Control Unit or Torque Monitoring Level 2 (MS43)
• 50 EVAP Control Valve or Response Monitoring Level 2 (MS43)
• 51 Shut-off Valve -Charcoal Filter or Request Control Unit Reset (MS43)
• 52 Solenoid Valve -Exhaust Flap
• 53 Idle Speed Actuator
• 55 Lambda Sensor Heater -Bank 2
• 56 Ignition Current Feedback Resistor - Open Circuit
• 57 Knock sensor -Bank 1
• 58 DME Control Unit -Self Test 2
• 59 Knock Sensor -Bank 2
• 61 Lambda Sensor Heater -Bank 2 Post Cat
• 62 Aux. Air Injection System -Switching Valve
• 63 DME Control Unit or Ambient Temp Signal via CAN (MS43)
• 64 Plausibility - Ambient Temperature
• 65 Camshaft Position Sensor (Inlet MS43)
• 66 DME Control Unit
• 67 DME Control Unit
• 68 Tank Venting Valve
• 69 Fuel Pump Relay
• 70 DME Control Unit
• 71 DME Control Unit
• 72 DME Control Unit
• 74 AirCon Compressor Relay
• 75 Lambda Sensor Voltage -Bank 1
• 76 Lambda Sensor Voltage -Bank 2
• 77 Lambda Sensor Voltage -Bank 1 Post Cat
• 78 Lambda Sensor Voltage -Bank 2 Post Cat
• 79 Lambda Sensor Heater -Bank 1 Post Cat
• 80 ABS/ASC interface
• 81 MSR Signal -Active too Long
• 82 ABS/ASC Interface -Advance Adjustment
• 83 Crankshaft Sensor
• 90 Exhaust Temperature Pre Cat Conv - Bank 1
• 91 Exhaust Temperature Pre Cat Conv - Bank 2
• 92 Exhaust Temperature Post Cat Conv -Bank 1
• 93 Exhaust Temperature Post Cat Conv -Bank 2
• 94 Auxiliary Air -Air Mass Flow Sensor
• 95 Auxiliary Air Valve or Auxiliary Air Hose Blocked
• 96 Auxiliary Air Pump - Function
• 97 Auxiliary Air -Flow Rate too Low
• 98 Auxiliary Air -Flow Rate too High
• 99 Auxiliary Air Valve Jammed Open
• 100 DME Control Unit -Self-Test Failed
• 103 VANOS Error -Inlet Camshaft
• 104 VANOS Error -Exhaust Camshaft
• 105 VANOS Error -Position Inlet Camshaft
• 106 VANOS Error -Position Exhaust Camshaft
• 109 Throttle Valve Plausibility
• 110 Pedal Sensor Value Potentiometer 1
• 111 Pedal Sensor Value Potentiometer 2
• 112 TPS Potentiometer 1
• 113 TPS Potentiometer 2
• 114 Throttle Valve Final Stage
• 115 Reference Voltage -Voltage Regulator 1 or Throttle Pedal Adaptation (MS43)
• 116 Reference Voltage -Voltage Regulator 2
• 117 Plausibility -Pedal Position Sensor 1/2
• 118 Plausibility -TPS 1/2 or TPS1/Airflow Plausibility (MS43)
• 119 Throttle Valve Sensor -Mechanical Error or TPS2/Airflow Plausibility (MS43)
• 120 Plausibility Pedal Sensor or TPS
• 122 Engine Oil Temperature
• 123 Map Cooling Thermostat Control
• 124 Activation DISA Solenoid
• 125 Activation Electric Fan
• 126 Activation Tank Leak Pump Solenoid
• 127 Activation Pump Solenoid
• 128 DME/EWS Communication
• 129 CAN Signal SMG 1
• 130 CAN Signal ASC -Timeout
• 131 CAN Signal Instrument Cluster -Timeout
• 132 CAN Signal Instrument Cluster -Timeout
• 133 CAN Signal ASC -Timeout
• 134 SMG Intervention -Plausibility
• 135 Throttle Valve Re-Adaptation Required
• 136 Throttle Valve -Spring Test and Limp-home Position Failed
• 137 CAN Signal -Steering Angle Sensor
• 139 CAN Signal -Tank Level Sensor
• 140 Tank Leak Pump Solenoid - Reed Switch Open or Output Stage (MS43)
• 141 Tank Leak Pump Solenoid - Reed Switch Stuck Closed or Tank Level Sensor (MS43)
• 142 Tank Leak Pump Solenoid - Reed Switch Stuck Open or DMTL Module (MS43)
• 143 Tank Ventilation or Tank Leakage (MS43)
• 144 Fuel System - Large Leak Recognised
• 145 Fuel System - Small Leak Recognised
• 146 EVAP System Leak Detected (Small Leak) or Pedal Sensor Supply Voltage Pot 1 (MS43)
• 147 Pedal Position Sensor Potentiometer Supply Channel 1 (Pot 2 MS43)
• 149 Air Flow Sensor or Pedal Value Sensor Mismatch
• 150 Lambda Post Cat Bank 1 Max Limit
• 151 Lambda Post Cat Bank 2 Max Limit
• 152 Lambda Post Cat Bank 1 Min Limit
• 153 Lambda Pre Cat Bank 2 Max Limit
• 154 Lambda Pre Cat Bank 2 Min Limit
• 155 Lambda Pre Cat Bank 2 No Signal
• 156 Lambda Pre Cat Bank 1 No Signal
• 157 Lambda Post Cat Bank 1 Min Limit
• 159 Lambda Post Cat Bank 2 Max Limit
• 160 Lambda Post Cat Bank 2 (MS41) or Throttle Valve Stuck
• 161 Throttle Valve - Stuck
• 162 Throttle Valve -Control Deviation
• 168 Pedal Position Sensor Pot Supply 1 or MAP Cooling Thermostat Jammed (MS43)
• 169 Throttle Valve Output Stage Cut off after Fault
• 170 DME Control Unit -Self Test Failed
• 171 Plausibility - Throttle Valve
• 172 Pedal Sensor Potentiometer 1/2 Short Circuit
• 173 TPS Potentiometer 1/2 Short Circuit
• 174 Throttle Valve Potentiometer 1/2 Adaptation
• 175 Pedal Sensor 1 Adaptation
• 176 Pedal Sensor 2 Adaptation
• 186 Voltage Post Cat Bank 1
• 187 Voltage Post Cat Bank 2
• 188 Voltage Pre Cat Bank 1
• 189 Voltage Pre Cat Bank 2
• 190 EVAP -Reed Switch Open or Voltage Post Cat Bank 1 (MS43)
• 191 EVAP -Reed Switch Closed or Voltage Post Cat Bank 2 (MS43)
• 192 EVAP -Reed Switch Open
• 193 EVAP -Check Hoses
• 194 EVAP -Large Leak Detected
• 195 EVAP -Small Leak Detected
• 196 EVAP -Electrical Valve from LDP Pump or Barometric Pressure Sensor (MS43)
• 197 EVAP -Barometric Pressure Sensor
• 198 Cat Efficiency during Start -Bank 1
• 199 Cat Efficiency during Start -Bank 2
• 200 Lambda Regulation Bank 1 Pre Cat
• 201 Lambda Regulation Bank 2 Pre Cat
• 202 Lambda Regulation Bank 1 Post Cat
• 203 Lambda Regulation Bank 2 Post cat
• 204 Idle Control System -Idle speed not plausible
• 208 EWS -RPM Signal Error
• 209 EWS -Message Error
• 210 Ignition Feedback Resistor (ZSR)
• 211 Idle Speed Actuator -Mechanical
• 212 VANOS Bank 1 -Mechanical
• 214 Vehicle Speed Signal (VSS)
• 215 Lambda Sensor Bank 1 or ASC/MSR/EML -Interface not plausible
• 216 Lambda Sensor Bank 2 or EGS Position Signal
• 217 CAN bus error -EGS Signal not present
• 218 CAN module -Warning
• 219 CAN module -CAN Offline
• 220 Lambda Voltage Range Bank 1 Sensor 1
• 221 Lambda Voltage Range Bank 2 Sensor 1
• 222 Low Coolant Temperature or Lambda Sensor Control (MS43)
• 223 Lambda Sensor Switching Bank 1 Sensor 2
• 224 Lambda Sensor Switching Bank 2 Sensor 2
• 225 Cat Efficiency Bank 1
• 226 Cat Efficiency Bank 2
• 227 Mixture Deviation Bank 1
• 228 Mixture Deviation Bank 2
• 229 Lambda Sensor Switching Bank 1
• 230 Lambda Sensor Switching Bank 2
• 231 Lambda Sensor Switching Bank 1 Pre Cat
• 232 Lambda Sensor Switching Bank 2 Pre Cat
• 233 Catalytic Converter Overall Efficiency Bank 1
• 234 Catalytic Converter Overall Efficiency Bank 2
• 235 Lambda Heater Bank 1 Post Cat or Pre Cat Signal (MS43)
• 236 Lambda Heater Bank 2 Post Cat or Pre Cat Signal (MS43)
• 238 Misfire Cyl 1
• 239 Misfire Cyl 2
• 240 Misfire Cyl 3
• 241 Misfire Cyl 4
• 242 Misfire Cyl 5
• 243 Misfire Cyl 6
• 244 Crankshaft Interval Timing
• 245 Aux Air Injection System Bank 1
• 246 Aux Air Injection System Bank 2
• 247 Aux Air Injection System -Incorrect Flow Detected
• 248 Pre Cat Converter Efficiency -Bank 1
• 249 Pre Cat Converter Efficiency -Bank 2
• 250 Tank Venting Valve -Function
• 251 Tank Ventilation Diagnosis Error
• 252 Tank Ventilation System Vacuum
• 253 Activated Charcoal Filter Shut-off Valve Stuck Shut
• 254 Tank Ventilation System -Large Air Leak
• 255 Tank Ventilation System -Valve Stuck Open
0helpful
1answer

HI,I HAVE A 2000 TOYOTA COROLLA 1.8,WAS BROKEN TIMING CHAIN.I BUYED THE CAR LIKE THAT,THE GUY TELLME,ON THE TRUNK ARE TWO EXTRA CAMSHAFTS FOR REPLACE,I DID VALVE JOB,RESURFACE,NEW EVERYTHING.NOW THE ENGINE...

Initially you would need to check the following two things:
1. Re-check and confirm the valve timing by removing the valve cover. Follow the manufacturer's recommendations.
2. Re-check the valve clearance.
1helpful
2answers

We changed teh timing belt on my 2002 honda civic and now it won't start. we rechecked the belt and it looks good maybe off 1 tooth. the engine cranks but nothing fires. We checked the compression on #1...

If the belt broke before you changed it,most likely bent the valves. As far as I know all honda engines are interference. Meaning if the belt timing is wrong the piston will hit the valves.
You wouldn't hear anything. Engine would spin really fast (no compression)
Only way to really tell is pull the valve cover and look at the valve height.
That would be a good way to be sure the marks are right also(the valves are closed when #1 is at top )
0helpful
2answers

Timing belt broke and i need to set the timing

The pistons, valves and cylinder walls typically take a beating when the timing belt breaks. If yours didn't, I'm amazed.

But you can TRY this:
For most OHV engines with a timing belt there is usually a hole in the camshaft sprocket that can align with a hole in the head. If there are two camshafts, each sprocket typically has the same arrangement. Look closely, if there is no hole, there will be a mark of some kind to indicate #1 Top Dead Center.
Make certain that the crankshaft and the camshaft(s) are all at #1 TDC, if there are holes in the sprocket(s), push an appropriately sized drill bit through the hole, into the corresponding hole in the head to hold the camshaft timing, then replace the belt, making certain that any idler pulleys or tension adjuster pulleys are out of the way. After you've put the new belt on, Put the idler pulleys and tension adjusters back into their appropriate place then remove whatever you used to hold the pulleys in place.
Most of the time a valve will "kiss" a piston when the timing belt breaks. That causes immediate and fatal damage to the engine requiring (at minimum) a complete engine rebuild. Sometimes valve seats, pistons, cylinder walls and other components are destroyed when the piston and valve collide.
0helpful
1answer

'86 honda accord 4 cyl...runs very rough as though missing on 1 cyl ...when removing plug wires 1 at a time each 1 removed makes engine run worse except for #1 cyl which when removed smooths engine out...

no, the plug is firing. But the timing is off. the plug is firing quite a bit before top dead center on that cylinder. The burning of the fuel mixture is occurring while that piston is on its way up and is slowing it down---dragging down the whole engine. i think you should change the distributor cap and rotor as cylinder one is firing at the same time as cylinder 2or 4. This indicates a possible carbon track in the distributor cap.
0helpful
1answer

My crank shaft is rotating twise the crank shaft. HOW MY 1342 FIRING WILL OCCURE?, I can spare only 30 digree for charge and spark plug contact. THERE ARE ONLY 2+2 CYLINDER. 180 DIGREE APPART KINDLY REPLY...

Your crankshaft turns 2x times the camshaft. Put it this way as # 1 cylinder reaches TDC (top dead center) of the firing/compression stroke, and this will be after a (8 degs BTDC) spark to ignite the air/fuel mix, the # 3 cyl. will be at BDC of the intake stroke and as #1 begins its power down stroke, (during explosion of air/fuel mix), #3 begins its compression up stroke, the #4 cyl. will be coming down with #1 cyl. but #4 will be in the beginning of its intake down stroke, and #2 cyl. will be coming up with #3 but #2will be in its BDC of the exhaust stroke. Which has just fired previously to #1. 1342134213421342 etc. Now the cam turns to open / close the valves; In the outline above, #1 cyl. valves will both be closed. #3 cyl. will have the intake starting to close at this point. #4 cyl. will just be starting to open its intake valve, and #2 will be starting to open its exhaust valve. Is all this clear as mud? So as the crank makes one full rotation (in a 4cyl. engine) only the firing of one cylinder has happened.and at every rotation one cyl. will fire. So #1 at TDC then one full rotation, #1 back at TDC, but this TDC is half of its 4 cycles, (1)Intake, (2)compression, (3)power, (4)exhaust. this 1234 refers to the 4 cycles of the rotation not firing order.
14helpful
1answer

1997 gmc 305 sparkplug firing order diagram

1 8 4 3 6 5 7 2 Clockwise rotation

I Hope this Does the trick for ya. Im Sure its TRUE & CORRECT
PLEASE Remember to RATE Me Most folks Dont I Need the Ratings to climb this Ladder THANK YOU MUCH

COIL WIRE-------------
#6-------- -------#5

#4------- -------#3

#2------- -------#7

#8------- --------#1
DISTRIBITOR

#8Cyl #7Cyl

#6Cyl #5Cyl

#4Cyl #3Cyl

#2Cyl #1cyl
0helpful
1answer

What are the valve positions when cam gear is at tdc

hi from uk hope this will explain TDC valve positions ? when the crankshaft is at tdc this means that numbers 1 and 4 pistons are both at tdc but only one of the cylinders are on firing mode so if let us say in relation to 4cyl engine the fire order is 1 3 4 2 the c/shaft is at tdc ? but for which cyl ? 1 or 4 ? to check look if the camshaft mark is at its mark or check rotor arm ?if at 1 or 4 ? if it isat no1 cyl then both of the valves for that cyl are fully closed whilst no4 cyl valves are at the point of exhaust valve just closed and inlet just about to open this is correct for tdc number 1 cyl firing stroke ?ok so far ? now then if c/shaftmark is atTDC it may be number 4 cyl ready to fire? that is because the camshaft rotates at half speed to the crankshaft soyou need to rotate crank 360 deg to bring cyls 1 + 4 to tdc again then it will be cyl 1 at tdc on firing stroke along with rotor arm at No 1 plug lead and both valves for No 1 cyl will be closed (the cam lobes will be facing up whereas No 4 cyl valves will be pointing down ) hope this is clear for you to understand? if you look at any 4 cyl engine the sequense is the same for No 1 TDC but firing orders may change ie fords 1 2 4 3 is fire order they use as apposed to 1 3 4 2 ? OK? CURIOUSE why you asked? but best wishes and merry xmas from uk
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