Hi, My 2006 Citroen C3 sensodrive (1.6sx) has a newly developed problem when at low revs and at idle, it almost stalls or sounds like it will anyway... Idle is really lumpy and and there is a loud "clacking" sound coming from the engine when cold, it is still there when it is warm, just quieter... how it began: on Saturday, we all went out when we arrived at our destination (about 5km of highway driving) there was a hissing sound from the engine and the fan had come on... I dismissed it, being a woman...When we left there was a huge puddle of water under the car, and i checked the water, it looked a bit skint, but i could get water to refill anywhere. So we went to get to the nearest filling station (5km) on the way there the car stalled at idle... in DRIVE (freaky)... The low oil pressure warning came up and as soon as the car started and was running it went away (now i was sure the car had overheated, but REALLY COULDN'T STOP in Pretoria CITY!!!! I tried my best to keep the revs about 2000, and got almost to our destination, when at a traffic light it stalled and wouldn't restart for ten minutes, (LOW OIL PRESSURE-STOP) we got it home eventually, but the warning came on every time I slowed down or stopped... I eventually found the leak and patched it, so no more coolant leak, but the car is very "funny" at idle and sounds like she might cut out (erratic idle-weak) I am pretty sure that the car threw up the wrong warning - but why??? and why is it so terrible now?
Sorry to tell you this my friend, but you did overheat the engine. You should have stopped at first warning that the car was hot. The knocking sound is warning of no oil(or not enough) in your car. Now that you have cooked your bearings, seals and gaskets, your car will never be the same again. The solution would be new(or replacement) engine or get a different car.
SOURCE: Oil pressure light on at idle
Don't delay on this. Take the vehicle in and have the oil pressure sensor checked. It could be just the sensor or it could be something more serious. A drop in oil pressure could lead to catastrophic engine failure.
don
SOURCE: 98 Isuzu Trooper stalls on cold start, idle issues..
I had the same issue on my 99 Trooper.
It would usually start when completely cold, but idle around 2k RPM.
It would drive fine. But if I shut it down, ran into a store, and came back out, it would start but immediately idle.
Had to ride the gas a little to get it into gear.
The Check Engine light has been going on and off for 6 months or so.
I took this to my local trusted repair shop (no Isuzu dealers within 200 miles).
The diagnosed the light, and found that the Intake Gaskets were bad or leaking.
The idling problem was related to the car not being able to control the amount of air coming in.
They replaced the Intake gaskets by the next day, and I haven't had a problem since. And no more check engine light, which has been on half a year.
Here's some details from my bill:
(1) Intake Gasket set $107.95
Misc materials $21.00
2.1 hours of Labor
The total cost to me was $345.00, and I definately don't feel gipped.
SOURCE: My 1989 Daihatsu Charade CLS (3 Cylinder) has a low idle
The E-brake light is on because the brake is slightly on, or the fluid is low, or the brakes are failing It sounds like the fluid is getting low from normal brake wear and not a problem. Just get the front brakes cheched and replaced. Don't put any fluid in because the new brake pads which are thicker will take up the space the fluid has dropped and push the fluid back to the correct level
Your engine is shutting down at idle because of a a bad seal on the engine induction system. It is the big duct that connects to the engine air intake. Leave the car running at idle, E-Brake on, and squeeze the big black duct going from the air filter to the engine, Does the car shut off? Next check small little hoses that attache to this big air duct. Try moving them a little to see if the engine runs different.
If these are good then I would shut off engine and remove this duct. A hose clamp holds one end. A slotted srewdriver will work to remove this clamp. The other end, at the Air Filter simply unclamps by hand.
The Throttle Valve is the first thing you see in the engine, it is inside the intake just after the duct you removed between the Air Filter and Intake. Have some one open the Throttle by stepping on the gas pedal and see if it is clean around the edges. If not, use some cleanning alcohol from your medicne cabinet to clean this area. A toothbrush will get into the tight spaces. Wipe clean with paper towel. Autozones sells a special cleaner called Throttle Valve cleaner spray. Use this not Carburator Cleaner.
If it still runs bad a idle the idle valve could be dirty and now you need more tools to remove it and clean too.
SOURCE: Oil pressure gauge drops after running and sitting still
The Oil pressure sensor seams to have gone bad and needs to be replaced soon as possible as they tend to leak oil soon after. There common to go bad and start with that since it's easier then replacing the oil pump, but if you don't hear any ticking from the engine and you have good pressure when the engine is cold then it's the sensor.
The 4 cylinder oil pressure switch is located below the A/C compressor. It is a single wire connection with a gray/yellow striped wire.
The 6 cylinder oil pressure switch is located on the passenger side rear of the block. It is a single wire connection with a gray/yellow striped wire.
Good luck and hope this helps.
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Find out why the low oil pressure light comes on first.
Ok, so after replacing the oil filter, which I figured had taken a beating at high temps, and running her a bit the sound disappears... note that the sound was always there, I suspect that the car has a history of cooling problems... She runs great now... was thinking of adding an oil additive for noisy tappets?
Turns out there was nothing wrong with the oil pressure, other than that the oil was waaaaay hot... looks like it got confused... diagnostics shows no faults stored, other than the fact that every bulb seems to be going now... very odd
ok, so I sealed up all the leaks and found a new one last night... one of the rear core plugs had gone, and i cant get any for some time, is it safe to fill with something?
There is definately nothing wrong other than cooling issues by the way, and thanx for your reply
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