What is the maximum tire size for a 2003 wrangler sport

You probably could and at a complete guess I would say the aspect ratio would be similar though it would depend on whether there is adequate clearance to prevent fouling of the suspension parts and of course the standard tyre pressures will need varying a little.

One word of caution; these days insurance companies expect to be told if you have modified your car and fitting different tyre and/or wheels is something they consider a modification - in fact any deviation from the exact manufacturer's specification...

If you don't tell them and your car is involved in a collision, you could find the insurance company withdraws your cover if it is examined.

One tire size won't hurt. It will affect your speedometer by about 2MPH. That's it. Hope this helps.

The body lift is included to ensure the larger tires can cycle through the full range of suspension movements without touching anything. The nice thing is that lifting a Jeep Wrangler (TJ) is easily done in stages:
- A 1 inch body lift will allow you to easily clear a slightly larger tire than stock, very inexpensively
- A 2 inch suspension lift would allow another tire-size upgrade, and increase ground clearance as dollars allow

In the end, a 1" body lift, combined with a 2" or 3" suspension lift will allow you to fit a 33" tire under these Jeeps. This not only increases your actual ground clearnace under the axle by almost 3 inches, but those new springs will flex a lot better than the old ones, so your Jeep will be much more capable offroad.

Combine this simple lifting strategy with aggressive fender trimming, and you could stuff 35" tires under that rig of yours - that would be good for almost 4 inches of extra clearance (over stock) under the axles - but you'd want to look at upgrading those axles if you're going with a tire over 33".

Other Lift Considerations... running out and slapping on some pucks under your body tub might sound easy, but there is a bunch to consider before the wrenches start flying:

* Get replacement bolts ready - the old rusty ones will be tough to get out and you'll want new ones to install
* Make sure you use actual body lift components - some areas will not allow a Jeep equipped with hockey pucks as body mounts to pass inspections - don't laugh, it happenes every day
* Be ready to lengthen wires and control linkages as needed - going up 1 inch shouldn't pose a problem, any higher might. You'll need to fabricate longer shifter and t-case handles, and watch for any other items which need lengthening.
* DO NOT run a body lift any higher than 3 inches - even that's a bit much. All you are doing it raising the centre of gravity and rather than the lift blocks supporting the mass of the body (and you) vertially, the bolts now must carry the weight through the turns. Think of it - does it seem safe to have 6, 1/2" or so bolts holding roughly 2500 lbs worth of body tub and humans in place? Keep it to 1 inch if at all possible.

Don't forget, if you raise the suspension, you'll need to install longer trac bars to locate the axles and adjust or replace steering components to keep the angles of steering-related items within specs. A full, complete kit, will have everything you need. Be sure to double and triple check those trac-bars - there's two in TJ Wranglers - one for each axle. Their job is to located the axle under the Jeep - if you hear a clunking noise after the install, chances are the mounting or location bolts/nuts are loose. In general, these nuts/bolts cannot be tight enough. Re-check them periodically and after every two or three trail rides. As with any suspension changes, go get an alignment when you're done.

Visit this link to know details about 2003 JEEP WRANGLER TJ INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS BODY LIFT KIT

Hope this helps (remember to rate and comment this answer).

Hi.

It depends on the tires you are mounting. The specifications may also vary a bit depending on your driving style and on the terrain. You find a sticker with the tire specifications in your SUV.

Most 2003 Corolla mount 175/65R14 Bridgeston Potenza, Michelin, Dunlop standard or Goodyear Allegra tires. In that case it will be 42/40 PSI front/back (2.9/2.8 bar) recommended.

If you have Dunlop Sport Tires or any other 185 / 65 R14 sport, then it will be 44 PSI (3.0 bar) maximum pressure.

That's not a massive increase in size, only 10mm extra width, so you should be ok.
It's only when you try to fit tyres that are 30mm or more wider, that sometimes these catch on the wheel arches.
Often though, your Insurance Co. will like to know about any modifications you have done, otherwise it might invalidate your insurance and you don't want that!

If you have a selec-track NP229 transfer case, likely the viscuous coupler if failing that would account for the shaking at speed and no motion on hill at 2k rpms.
The single wheel spinning at the rear may be that you don't have a posi differential but an open rear, or, the clutches are stuck. (can often be released by changing lube, adding posi additive and then making tight circles in both directions or tight figure 8"s)
If engine is always idling at 2K you may have a vacuum leak somewhere. That can cause other problems with any vacuum operated controls elsewhere in the car.

there should be a label just inside the door jam on the drivers side or the glove box showing you the maximum size tires as well as correct inflation
if it's not there http://www.tirerack.com/index_w.jsp


Robert

Please take a moment to rate this solution

1) If you want performance in the rain, you need an all season tire.
2) I had 31x10.5 on my Jeep.
3) The vibration could be a bad steering damper.
4) Dana rears are almost ablong shaped on the cover. The other is perfect round shape cover.
5) Tell your wife the Jeep is for her.

My Answer:

The one thing you never mentioned was if you had your Jeep SUV Front-end Aligned after you had the new tires installed?

I'm guessing/hoping you did???

Where did you have the work done at? Be specific here!

Was it a 2-wheel or 4-wheel alignment if that applies here? Big difference it was done RIGHT or if it was done WRONG? That's just maybe part of the problem though if it was indeed MIS-ALIGNED. When you say PULLING - that is a BIG CLUE right there of a possible MIS-ALIGNMENT!!

Not sure what size tires you had on it originally or which size new tires you had put on, but if the new tires were over-sized then you are rubbing on the mainframe or possibly rubbing the front fender wells??

This has happened before, as sometimes they don't pull the right size tires from stock, and then don't double check them before mounting them.

Esp when you are running bigger rims and lower profile tires, which might be your case, as you didn't say anything to the contrary.

If we're talking about STOCK tires for STOCK tires here then your driver side door decal will state the factory installed tires as to their proper size. Any modification to that as to bigger rims and lower profile tires has to be done to factory recommended specs. Lets hope so anyway!

If I were you I would be double checking everything, as to what was actually done, and as to what tires, etc were put on your SUV.

The clue to your problem lies right there to start with! After all nothing was mentioned about any "pulling" before you had the new tires put on.

Here's one last big clue as to if you actually got a "bad alignment" on your Jeep SUV.

Have someone else drive behind you on an empty straight flat street (or else have someone else drive your Jeep and you follow behind about 4 to 5 car lengths back). If your Jeep's body is trying to track crooked (as if on an angle diagonal to straight ahead) as the tires are trying to track straight ahead - then you definitely just got a bummer mis-alignment!

I'm putting my money this is the case, as I've seen it so many times it's not funny.

It called a "shade tree alignment" and for good reason.

Let me know I was right?

Frank

Your tires will certainly last longer and your steering may be sharper. Here are the issues (having done this on other cars):

• cars are generally designed to use one size of tire for a reason...too large a tire is not good in the rain, for example
• your speedometer/odometer will read wrong
• there is a possibility of body interference in turns or in full suspension jounce

Assuming you do this: make sure your front end is in good condition and use the same width tire. Your car may have a different model with an oversized tire. Ask your dealer what modifications to address the speedometer issue are available.