Need to find a wiring diagram of the wiring harness going from the power windows master switch through the front of the driver's door. The power windows will not raise nor lower from the driver's side master switch, nor from the individual switches on the left and right rear doors. The front passenger window does operate normally from the front passenger door switch, but not from the driver's master switch. This was an intermittent problem for 2-3 months until about one week ago, but now is constant. All windows are fully closed except driver's window which is open approximately 1-inch. I've read of this same problem from members of forum boards, and the fix seems to be repairing broken wires in the wiring harness as it passes from the door through the open space into the body of the car.
Glad you figured it out, Chuck. A good fix. BTW, that brown hot wire does not go up to switch. It comes from the fuse panel, on a circuit that receives power when key is on. It may be broken in or on one side of the boot. When I found a broken ground wire for my windows there, I did not have to cut the boot, but compressed it back and forth till seeing the break. You may be of the mind set "if it ain't broke, don't fix it", as I tend to be, so I'll, leave it at that. It IS nice to have power windows again.
SOURCE: 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee driver side power windows do not work
I had the same problem with now power to windows, mirrors and seat. The common soulution is the orange and or black wire in the boot have broken between the door and post.
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Assuming the fix is to repair the Black and/or Orange wire in the door harness...What if the break is in the harness - do I need to cut the rubber boot off to get to the break, or is it usually in the harness before or after it passes through the boot into the main body?
FixYa.com emailed me today, supplied a link to this page, and asked me to check "YES" or "NO" as to whether the solution provided was helpful or not helpful in solving the problem. However, there is no Yes or No choice option anywhere on this page! So, I'm providing the answer as a comment to the solution instead. See the next paragraph.
The answer is "NO", it was not helpful. Sorry for a negative comment, mastermech21, but the switch works perfectly. I removed the master switch, checked continuity in each of the 4 window switches and the lockout switch with my ohmmeter. All showed good continuity (zero ohms) when pressed. Then I checked for power to the switch assembly. Found that the brown wire which normally supplies 12V to the assembly was NOT live (zero volts - with ignition key ON), It is apparently broken (at the door-to-post boot?) or disconnected from the 12V source in some other way (accessories switch at ignition). Solution---I installed a jumper between the Master Switch brown wire and the power mirrors orange wire which carries 12V, and...SUCCESS!!! All power windows work!!!
A very slight problem with this fix is that the power mirrors don't depend on the ignition switch being turned to the "Accessories" position, nor the "Start" position. The power mirrors work at all times. Thus the power windows also now work at all times, including when the ignition is turned off and the key removed. As I said, it's a only a "slight" problem, and not unwelcome, since my power windows problem is solved!!!
I hope this helps others with the same or similar problems. I'll be glad to answer any questions.
By the way, "FixYa" is a fantastic site for solutions to auto problems...especially the videos. Very thorough, well thought out, well presented, and easy to understand. THANK YOU!
www.USNavyRetiredVet.Etsy.com
See my conclusions and comments in my comment dated June 3, 2012
Update June 7, 2012. My testing of the Lock Out switch was flawed in some way. It actually is working as it was intended, so there was no "slight problem" as described in my earlier comments.
www.USNavyRetiredVet.Etsy.com
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