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No heat we have a 2001 jeep grand cherokee, v8 engine, when you cut the heat on the fan blows but no heat comes out, while you are driving in cold weather the windsheild fogs over like there is a little heat coming out of the vent below the windsheild.
If your engine temp guage is also low then u need a new thermostat. if the gauge is not low then you have a blocked heater core. you can try to flush it.
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fan either works on high or not. only you can tell, does it.?
not by flow but sound.
if the engine is 180F or more. then there is full heat.
if the heater core heats to 180F, then that is 2nd
then comes, dampers. if they are closed , no heat.
the whole system is in the FSM , all test.
but here too
Check the cooling fan motor and of course the fluid level. If the temp is changing thru the heater it could just be low on coolant , leaking from ? Two wheel drive have an elecrtic cooling fan only, make sure its spinning up when temp is 3/4. If not its probably the fan motor. Can be checked with a test light .
Water pump would never do that. pump either works or doesn't. You should have no heat 'till the engine is warmed up. Engine heats the water. If it was doing this before you changed the thermostat then the old one may have been bad. However, at this point, Id be looking to see if you have it installed with the spring end towards the engine, if the electric fans are coming on and if the radiator is internally obstructed and not flowing properly. You need to re-fill the system with the heat on full hot and the fill cap off to ensure that air purges from the system. If equipped with air bleeds, use them as well. One trick I use to prevent air binding is to warm up the engine to the point that the temperature is just below where it normally runs at. Turn the engine off and wait about three minutes for the stat to open and then begin filling slowly till it's full.(running) Used to be you could check radiator flow by putting your hand on it in different spots when hot. Cold spots would be where flow is restricted. Today radiators are not easily reached but most good shops use a heat sensing gun to check this. If your radiator fills through a cap on the radiator if you need to dribble coolant in or it backs up, that is a good indication that the radiator is obstructed as well (providing t stat is working.)
You actually need to look at the fan and see if it's coming on. Another cause of your problem that often shows up in spring is a partially blocked "marginal flow" condition in the radiator. (works fine in colder weather but can't shed heat fast enough in warmer weather. This usually gives itself away by having a very slow fill rate when putting coolant in., also by developing cold spots when the remainder of the core is warm to the touch.
there should be a small valve attached to a hose coming from the engine into the firewall this valve directs the hot engine coolant into the heater radiator in the heater box it probably is closed open it and, you should have heat then: it should be easy to find the reason it was closed
Hi,
As the circuit is through this resistor, and the main load is the blower motor, I think this is taking a higher current than normal to make it turn. You could simply fit a lower rating fuse to the circuit - as this is cheaper to replace, and check the fan to make sure it is easy to spin by hand. If not, try and oil the bearings as a last resort before replacing it.
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