#4 cylinder misfire

When troubleshooting an ignition "no-spark" issue, it's helpful to first understand how the system works in sequence. The process starts with the crankshaft position (CKP) sensor detecting engine rotation and cylinder position. The CKP signal is interpreted by the powertrain control module (PCM) which then sends a signal to the ignition control module (ICM). The ICM then drives the ignition coil which is when the high voltage (for spark) is created. From there, the high voltage goes through the ignition coil wire to the center of the distributor cap. Here, the spring-loaded button of the cap touches the center of the spinning rotor and transfers the voltage. The high voltage then jumps from the rotor to whichever pole the rotor is pointed towards at the outer edge of the cap; let's say it's cylinder #1. High voltage then travels through the cylinder #1 ignition wire to the cylinder #1 spark plug where it sparks and ignites the cylinder's air/fuel mixture. Considering these things, if there is no spark from any of the cylinder-specific ignition wires, the issue must be further upstream. Start by unplugging the ignition coil wire where it attaches to the distributor and check for spark; if present, the issue is with the distributor cap or rotor. If not present, the issue is further upstream. ICM and ignition coils are both pretty common failures, but further in-depth diagnosis would need to be performed in order to determine if there is a circuit failure, sensor failure, module failure, or other component failure. You can read more here: https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/how-to-replace-a-distributor-rotor-and-cap-by-tim-charlet

Change your ignition module. The distributor is a weak point of the Honda, I will always change out the whole thing than just try the coil.

I think you have an engine wiring harness issue going on here.

I am thinking it is your distributor. I had this happen just a few weeks ago. Check with local junkyards as I found a used(almost brand new) distrubutor for 100.00 opposed to almost 300.00 new. Same exact problem and also changed each thing you listed prior to finding out it was my distrubutor. My truck runs like it did before the issues started.

- Check engine compression.
- Check valve clearance.
- Check spark plug gaps. (0.8-0.9 mm).
- Check vacuum leak at intake manifold.
- Fuel pump pressure too high.

Check compression. If that is fine than swap the Number four injector with number one. If the misfire follows the injector replace it. Let me know if you have any questions and I'll do my best to answer them. Thank you for using FixYa.com!

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

This diagram is for 1998-1995 Chevy 6 cylinder 4.3L engines.
Your got the firing order exactly correct, at 1-6-5-4-3-2, but here's the thing to double-check:
The distributor rotation is clockwise (note badly rendered arrow in picture).





Since you probably got everything right, then you're left with really unusual/rare causes of
failure of the ignition system:
(a) rotor button misaligned/failing to make contact?
(b) rotor button not pressed onto distributor shaft far enough therefore failing to provide correct
proximity to distributor cap contacts when coil fires
(c) coil wire or contact loose/disconnected - press coil wire firmly down into distributor cap.
(d) distributor shaft of other damage caused during installation of rotor.
(e) spark plug wires defective from factory
(f) spark plugs defective from factory
(g) battery low - may need a charge to start
(h) ICM (ignition control module) failure - hook up your HEI (high energy ignition) tester, and
watch the quality of the spark on each cylinder.
(i) fuel problem? If spark is being properly delivered, its gotta be a fuel problem...
(j) distributor cap not screwed down flush to top of distributor? maybe just on one side?

Inspect the inside of the distributor cap - if there are lots of little metal bits all over the inside
of the distributor cap, then you know you have a misalignment of some type in there, and the
rotor and cap are destroying each other. normal operation will throw a quota of spark-ed off
metal bits inside the distributor cap, but since your cap is brand new, your attempts to start
the engine should have rotated the distributor so few times, you should see no metal debris.

Inspect the distributor cap contacts to see if any spark marks are more of less in the middle
of the cap's proper "contact zone". If not, you've diagnosed an internal misalignment, which
you know how to correct.

Sounds like you have a couple of leads on the wrong plugs or in the wrong place on the cap.

YOUR DISTRIBUTOR HAS A HIGH VOLTAGE SWITCH INSIDE IT ALSO CAM SENSOR.THE HIGH VOLTAGE SWITCH INSIDE DISTRIBUTOR COULD BE THE PROBLEM.