2002 Ford Explorer Rear Blower Switch has no power. I checked the fuses and they are all good. I put the fuse tester to the switches and the tool didnt light up. (The front control for the rear blower and the rear control). The blower works when connected directly to the battery. Any suggestions?

The selector switch on the dash controls the blower motor relay, then the fan switch controls the speed. The fan switch gets power from a 40amp fuse and the control panel gets power from two other fuses.
If you are working the control switch to get the fan to work, the control switch may be failing.

According with the Explorer Owner Guide, I suggest...
1. Check for power on the Light Blue/Black (LB/BK) wire at the master window switch.
2. Check for a good ground to the master window switch on the Black (BK) wire. This wire provides the ground circuit for all of the window motors.

If both of these are good you probably have a bad master switch(drivers master switch).

The Light Blue/Black (LB/BK) wire gets its power supply from the accessory delay relay in the Central Junction Box (CJB) located under the instrument panel. The Generic Electronic Module (GEM) controls activation of the accessory delay relay. Fuse 2.17 is a 15 amp fuse in the CJB which supplies power to the relay. Fuse F1.6 is a 60 amp fuse in Battery Junction Box (BJB) which also supplies power to the accessory delay relay. G400(ground) is located at the driver side rear of the vehicle near the tail light assembly. This connection provides a ground for the master window switch (click image for zoom).




For additional details, i suggest try to look and obtain this 2002 Explorer Owner Guide 6th Printing (English).

Hope helps.

There are two fuse boxes. A baqttery junction box under the hood on the drivers side and one inside on drivers side. Good luck.

Fuse/Relay

Location

Fuse Amp

Rating

Power Distribution Box

Description

1 60A** I/P Fuse Panel

2 40A** Blower Motor Relay

3 50A** 4 Wheel Anti-Lock Brake System

(4WABS) Module

4 30A** Power Windows, Power Moon

Roof, Power Seat

5 50A** Ignition Switch, Starter Relay

6 20A** Transfer Case Relay

7 - Not Used

8 20A** Air Suspension

9 40A** Air Suspension

10 30A** PCM Power Relay

1 10A* A/C Relay

2 30A* Heated Seats

3 30A* Heated Backlight

4 15A* Fog Lamps and Daytime Running

Lamps

5 4 3 2 1

10 9 8 7 6

12 11 10 9

8 7 6 5

4 3 2 1

15 14 13

2 1 1

9

6

10

8

7

5

4

1

3 2

175

MEGAFUSE

Roadside emergencies

197

Fuse/Relay

Location

Fuse Amp

Rating

Power Distribution Box

Description

5 - Not Used

6 10A* Powertrain Control Module

7 30A* 4 Wheel Anti-Lock System

(4WABS) Module

8 15A* Rear Wiper Motor

9 20A* Fuel Pump Relay and RAP

Module

10 15A* Horn Relay

11 15A* Parklamps Relay and Mainlight

Switch

12 30A* Mainlight Switch and

Multifunction Switch

13 15A* Heated Oxygen Sensor, EGR

Vacuum Regulator, EVR Solenoid,

Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor,

Canister Vent Solenoid

14 30A* Generator/Voltage Regulator

15 - Not Used

1 - Wiper Park Relay

2 - A/C Relay

3 - Wiper High/Low Relay

4 - PCM Power Relay

5 - Fuel Pump Relay

6 - Starter Relay

7 - Horn Relay

8 - Rear Wipe Down Relay

9 - Blower Motor Relay

10 - Rear Wipe Up Relay

1 - Not Used

1 - DRL Diode
2 - Electronic Engine Controls Diode

even though you checked all fuses and relays and have power the relay could over heat and shut them down. switch relay with another relay and check again. does the front markers go out also or just the rear?

Fuse/Relay Location*Fuse Amp Rating* Description
1 60A** PJB 2 30A** BSM 3 20A** Not used (Spare)
4 30A** Rear defrost 5 40A** ABS (pump)
6 60A** Delayed accessory circuit breaker
7 20A** Power point #2 8 — Not used 9 20A** Power point #1
10 30A** ABS module (valves) 11 40A** PTEC
12 50A** Ignition relay/Starter relay
13 40A** Trailer tow battery, Trailer tow turn signals
14 10A* Foglamps 15 15A* Memory (KAPWR)
16 15A* Headlamp switch 17 20A* 4x4 (v-batt 2)
18 20A* 4x4 (v-batt 1) 19 20A** High beam relay
20 30A** Electric brake 21 30A** Front wiper motor
22 20A** Autolamp; Low beam 23 30A** Ignition switch
24 20A* Rear Fog Lamps 25 – Not used
26 15A* Fuel pump 27 20A* Trailer tow lamps
28 20A* Horn relay 29 60A** PJB 30 20A** Rear wiper motor
31 — Not used 32 — Not used 33 30A** Auxiliary blower motor 34 30A** Power seats, Adjustable pedals
35 20A** Rear power point 36 40A** Blower motor
37 15A* A/C clutch relay/Transmission

If this occurs in all positions, check fuse, check for power at the fan motor, if power in all positions replace motor. if no power at fan and fuse is good, check blower motor resistor and blower motor control switch. Replace as required

See if you have power coming out of the master power window switch when a button is pushed down. Remove a door panel and check for power at the window motor with the switch pushed. If you do not have power it could be the master switch. Good luck.

Aside from the fuses, your drive side power door lock may be failing to work because of a bad door-lock relay system, or, alternatively, the locking switch/button, itself, is not malfunctioning and in need of replacement.

A great handyman site that specifies the above probable causes and more is the following link:
http://yourhandymanzone.com/Your_Handyman_Zone_How_To_Pages_Vehicle_Car_Zone_Cars_Trucks_Vans_Locks_Power_Locks_Do_Not_Lock_When_Pressing_Locking_Switch_Button.htm

Good luck!

You Feel the heat but it does not blow--
Check your Blower motor Ralay first if it is Clicking then check the Blower motor itself apply 12 volts to pos wire at blower motor if it does NOT come on Replace blower motor if it does work the Problem is at the Switch itself

is the blower unit getting power at the plug in? use 12v light tester, if so then your ground good? if so you need a new blower simple!