The easiest way I do it is go to an national chain auto parts supplier like Discount Auto Parts or Auto Zone. They will select the correct blades and will put your wiper blades on for free. Take it from me after cracking my windshield once this is how I do it.
just did one today. removed housing from car, and used a press . be careful of aluminum housing. also used penatrating spray. clean oxidation from inside bearing hole,then lubricating, helped in installation
seat frame base is held to floor with four bolts, one in each corner. Begin by moving seat to the full forward position, remove the two rear seat frame bolts, they may be covered by carpet and plastic trim. Them move seat to full rear position and remove both front frame bolts, the seat will now be free to remove. Keep me posted
you will need to remove all the brake hardware and remove the strut and then purchase or rent a Ball joint press or remove the lower control arm and have a machine shop press the joint out. U will need a front end alignment after this is done.
It is a chain and its not the easiest but it could be worse.It is as follows: 1.9L SOHC Engine
Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section.
Drain the engine oil.
Remove or disconnect the following:
Negative battery cable
Right front wheel and splash shield
NOTE: Place a 1 in. x 1 in. x 2 in. long block of wood between the torque strut and cradle to ease removal and installation of the torque engine mount.
3 right side upper engine torque axis to front cover nuts and the 2 mount to midrail bracket nuts, allowing the powertrain to rest on the block of wood
Drive belt, tensioner and pulley
Power steering pump attaching bolts and set the pump to the side with the lines still attached
A/C compressor from the bracket and set aside with the lines attached
Camshaft cover
Using a strap wrench or a piece of wood wedged between the damper spoke and the lower side of the engine front cover, hold the damper and remove the bolt. With a suitable 3-jaw puller and the slots cast into the damper, pull the crankshaft damper/pulley assembly from the crankshaft.
Install the special oil seal replacement tool SA9104E, to be sure the front crankshaft timing sprocket is held firmly in place and prevent guide damage. Install with the flat side towards the crankshaft sprocket.
Remove or disconnect the following:
Front 4 oil pan bolts and cut the seal away from the front cover
Front cover bolts and carefully pry the cover away from the cylinder block at the pry location tabs, which are provided. Remove the cover from under the hood or through the wheel well
Front cover oil seal from the cover
NOTE: During timing chain and sprocket removal, position the crankshaft 90 degrees past Top Dead Center (TDC), to be sure the pistons will not contact the valves upon assembly.
Carefully rotate the crankshaft clockwise so the timing mark on the crankshaft sprocket and keyway align with the main bearing cap split line (90 degrees past TDC).
Remove or disconnect the following:
Timing guides and tensioner
Camshaft sprocket bolt, using a 7⁄8 in. (21mm) wrench to hold the camshaft. Then, remove the timing chain and camshaft sprocket
Crankshaft sprocket
To install:
Inspect the chain for wear and damage. Check the inside diameter of the chain, it should be no more than 16.77 in. (426mm). Inspect the chain guides for wear or cracks and the timing sprockets for teeth or key wear. Replace components as necessary.
Verify that the crankshaft keyway is positioned 90 degrees clockwise past TDC (keyway at 3 o'clock). The keyway should align with the split between the bearing cap and engine block.
Bring the camshaft up to No. 1 TDC by loosely installing the sprocket and rotating the sprocket until the timing pin can be inserted. The camshaft contains wrench flats to assist in turning the shaft. The dowel pin should be at 12 o'clock when the camshaft is at TDC.
Install the crankshaft sprocket, then rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise 90 degrees up to No. 1 TDC (keyway at 12 o'clock).
Position the chain under the crankshaft sprocket and over the camshaft sprocket. The timing chain should be positioned so that 1 silver link plate aligns with the reference mark on the camshaft sprocket and the other aligns with the downward tooth (at the 6 o'clock position) on the crankshaft sprocket. The letters FRT on the camshaft sprocket must face forward, away from the cylinder head and excess chain slack should be located on the tensioner side of the block.
Install or connect the following:
Timing pin to verify proper alignment of the camshaft and sprocket. Torque the sprocket bolt to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm).
NOTE: Do not allow the camshaft retaining bolt to torque against the timing pin or cylinder head damage will result.
Timing chain guides with the words FRONT facing out. Install the fixed guide first and verify the chain is snug against the guide, then install the pivot guide. Torque the bolts to 19 ft. lbs. (26 Nm) and verify that the pivot guide moves freely
Retract the tensioner plunger and pin the ratchet lever using a 1⁄8 in. No. 31 drill bit inserted in the alignment hole at the bottom front of the component
Tensioner. Torque the bolts to 14 ft. lbs. (19 Nm), then remove the drill bit
Make one final check to verify all components are properly timed, then remove all timing pins.
Install or connect the following:
Seat a new front cover oil seal using the installation tool with a press
If the engine front cover casting or assembly is replaced, the 3 torque axis mount studs should also be replaced. Torque the new studs to 19 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section.
drain the engine oil.
Remove or disconnect the following:
Negative battery cable
Right front wheel and splash shield
NOTE: Place a 1 x 1 x 2 in. (25 x 25 x 51mm) block of wood between the torque strut and cradle to ease removal and installation of the torque engine mount.
3 right side upper engine torque axis to front cover nuts and the 2 mount to midrail bracket nuts, allowing the powertrain to rest on the block of wood
Drive belt, tensioner and pulley
Power steering pump attaching bolts and set the pump to the side with the lines still attached
A/C compressor from the bracket and set it to the side with the lines attached
Camshaft cover
Using a strap wrench or a piece of wood wedged between the damper spoke and the lower side of the engine front cover, hold the damper and remove the bolt. With a suitable 3-jaw puller and the slots cast into the damper, pull the crankshaft damper/pulley assembly from the crankshaft.
Install the special oil seal replacement tool SA9104E or equivalent, to be sure the front crankshaft timing sprocket is held firmly in place and prevent guide damage. Install with the flat side towards the crankshaft sprocket.
Remove or disconnect the following:
Front 4 oil pan bolts and cut the seal away from the front cover
Front cover bolts and carefully pry the cover away from the cylinder block at the pry location tabs, which are provided. Remove the cover from under the hood or through the wheel well
Front cover oil seal from the cover
NOTE: During timing chain and sprocket removal, position the crankshaft 90 degrees past top Dead Center (TDC), to be sure the pistons will not contact the valves upon assembly.
Carefully rotate the crankshaft clockwise so the timing mark on the crankshaft sprocket and keyway align with the main bearing cap split line (90 degrees past TDC).
Timing guides and tensioner
Camshaft sprocket bolt, using a 7⁄8 in. (21mm) wrench to hold the camshaft. Then, remove the timing chain and camshaft sprocket
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Call around to your local auto parts stores, most likely one of them will read your code for free and tell you what needs to be fixed if anything. (They're in the business of selling parts, so they're hoping the check engine can be fixed by a part that you can buy from them and replace.)
Pep Boys, AutoZone, O'reilly, Advance Auto and Napa Auto have been known to read your codes for free.
Hi :) I have a 1997 SW1 wagon same front end have replaced parts over the years since new and I'am still driving it that noise is coming from the CV axle to replace it you jack up the car and set on jack stands safely remove the bolt holding lower ball joint in place and seperate the two parts, Undo the large nut on the outside of the wheel hub and push the stud out of the bearing the take a large srewdriver or pry bar and pry the other end of the axle out of the center shaft support housing that goes to the transmission and reverse process to repace making sure the inner CV shaft is all the way seated into the center shaft support.
I think the ball joint is pressed into the lower control arm so you replace the whole shooting match. Doing the other side at the same time would be a good idea.
Suspension parts are replaced in tandem, so you do both sides for safety. Look on ebay for new bearing units, i believe on the 2002 Saturn they are bolt in units. Have a repair shop, not a dealer, put them in for you, this takes some tools you most likely do not have. Should take less than half a day, however if the bearings are shot you may have tie rod ends, and lower control arm/ball joint wear as well. It is bearings, not barons.
you will need to remove all the brake hardware and remove the strut and then purchase or rent a Ball joint press or remove the lower control arm and have a machine shop press the joint out. U will need a front end alignment after this is done.
Drain Trans,Remove lower ball joint nut & separate the knuckle from ball joint.Remove 30mm axle nut & gently pry out the axle from trans then tap out axle from hub.
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