Hi there:
When any part of the hydraulic system has been disconnected for
repair or replacement, air may get into the lines and cause spongy pedal
action (because air can be compressed and brake fluid cannot). To
correct this condition, it is necessary to bleed the hydraulic system so
to be sure all air is purged.
Bleeding must start where the lines
were disconnected. If lines were disconnected at the master cylinder,
for example, bleeding must be done at that point before proceeding
downstream.
Manual Bleeding:
Manual bleeding requires two people and a degree of patience and cooperation.
Follow the preparatory steps, above.
Attach a length of rubber hose over the bleeder screw and place the other end of the hose in a glass jar, submerged in brake fluid.
Have your assistant press down on the brake pedal, then open the bleeder screw 1 / 2 - 3 / 4 turn.
The brake pedal will go to the floor.
Close the bleeder screw-preferably before the pedal reaches the floor. Tell your assistant to allow the brake pedal to return slowly.
Repeat these steps to purge all air from the system.
When bubbles cease to appear at the end of the bleeder hose, close the bleeder screw and remove the hose. Check that the pedal is firm or at least firmer than it was when you started. If not, continue the procedure.
Check the master cylinder fluid level and add fluid accordingly. Do this after bleeding each wheel.
Repeat the bleeding operation at the remaining three wheels, ending with the one closet to the master cylinder.
Fill the master cylinder reservoir to the proper level.
NOTE
If there is excessive air in the system, it is possible that the stroke of the brake pedal will be insufficient to purge the lines. In this case a pressure bleeder or vacuum bleeder is the easiest solution.
Vacuum Bleeding:
Vacuum bleeding can be carried out by one person. Since a good vacuum bleeder will normally move more fluid than a brake pedal stroke, this procedure is preferred. These tools are inexpensive and readily available at auto parts outlets.
Follow the preparatory steps, above.
Attach the vacuum bleeder according to the manufacturer's recommendations.
Pump up the unit until maximum vacuum is reached. Loosen the bleeder screw slightly until bubbles and fluid issue forth. Close the screw before the vacuum is equalized.
Repeat the procedure until fluid without bubbles issues from the bleeder screw.
Keep a close check on master cylinder fluid level during this procedure as vacuum bleeders move considerable amounts of fluid.
Hope this helps; also keep in mind that your feedback
is important and
I`ll appreciate your time and consideration if you leave some
testimonial comment about this answer.
Thank you for using FixYa, have a nice day.
SOURCE: water pump replacement procedure 2005 2500 dodge with cummins diesel
take off old water pump. clean up area on the motor real good.do this by using a scrapper and cleaning slolvent. when thats all done put hi temp silicon on the block water pump and the put gasket on silicon. let dry for like five minutes. put in on torque bolts to specs.
SOURCE: 1999 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins 4x4, will not go above 25 mph
check the waste gate,its not returning to open position
SOURCE: 1999 dodge cummins 2500 front axel seals
you need to pull off wheels,brakes, rotor /unit hub bearing, both axles and intermediate shaft, as well as the vac disconnec ton the front axle tube. if only the right side leaks then only then only pull the right axle and intermediate shaft and vac disco. it is a trick with a miller tool to replace the seal. the left side seal is inside the diff and the carrier has to come out to replace it. pete
SOURCE: 2001.5 Dodge Ram Diesel 2500 4x4 Brake Pedal drops to floor
It sounds like you have a bad mastercylinder cause when you panic brake it doesn't have time to bleed through the valve in the cylinder but under normal braking your foot is on pedal longer in turn giving the fluid time to bypass the valve in the mastercylinder in turn the pedal going to the floor.
Testimonial: "thnx"
2,455 views
Usually answered in minutes!
×