I have a 1988 Maxima that quit while driving. Getting spark and has compression, so I tried a bit of starting fluid - and it starts for a sec, with that. So, I have a fuel problem. It's putting out a code 21 (fuel pump) but the fuel pump is delivering plenty of pressure. Checked the regulator, and it's functioning correctly. Leaving the injectore. When cranking, they are NOT making any clicking sound (or feel). My HAynes manual does not include a schematic for the injector circuit, so I'm attempting to do it the old fashion way - pulling off all the wire wrap, and tracing the wires. BUT it would be so much easier with a schematic.
BBB Industries should list schematics back to 1986.
SOURCE: SPARK PLUG REPLACEMENT FOR 97 MAXIMA
Well, it is usually cheaper then having a shop do it for you. But it will require you to have some tools. In this case probable a 10mm and 5/8 spark plug socket and 6 inch extension and ratchet.
Other than that, you should be good to go.
SOURCE: 1998 nissan maxima removing long axle
It odes not matter if the car is in gear or neutral. The r/h side axle is kind of a pain to remove. You will need a long extention and 12mm swiwle end socket and a ratchet. You need to remove the 3 bolts on the side of the support bearing to get the axle out of the support bearing bracket. Those bolts are a pain in the *** to get to. You have to be looking at then from underneith the transmission. Remove those bolts. Then you will need a big punch an a hammer to spin the bearing in the support to free it up enough to get it out. This is not really a job, that you want to be laying on your back doing it and its not exactly a job for a person, that doesn't work on cars or is machanically inclined. Anyhow, good luck and let me know how you made out.
SOURCE: This Haynes book is garbage. Drivebelt(both) replacement
The Haynes manual is a little too generalized for specific repairs although it is good for a basic idea.The tensioner should be a bracket style tensioner not a spring load.If it is a bracket style tensioner usually there is a bolt going through the center that would need to be loosened before you loosen the tension bolt.If there is no tensioner on this belt then look for the engine accessory with the adjustment slot or tensioner built on to one of the bolts,more than likely it will be the power steering pump if this design is anything like the 1991.This is a very tight,akward job and will require alot of patience.
the 2/3 shift solenoid is most likely shot not an easy job its inside the valve body agood tranny shop should easily diagnose this
SOURCE: 2001 nissan maxima se keeps blowing the ecm 1 fuse
Did you find the prolbem? Im having the exact same problem you have. Mine is doing it after it died and I replaced the starter but now it wont start and the fuse eng cont 1 keeps getting burned out instantly
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