I have replaced the spark plugs, wires, coil, distributor cap & rotor, coil wire and my 92 wrangler, 4.0 L HO will crank but not start. I pulled a plug and grounded the casing, cranked the engine and no spark. This problem has been periodic for a while as the jeep would stop running when driving after a few minutes or an hour. The last time this happened, I pulled the coil wire off and put it back on and it started. Sometimes when you wait an hour, it will restart. Does anyone have a clue of the problem. Is there a process to check the pick up switch in the distributor to see if it is faulty? Does this device switch the supply voltage to the coil? Does anyone have a wiring schematic of the starting circuit?

SOURCE: 1993 Jeep Grand Cherokee engine problem

If the crank sensor (reaR at bellhousing) is dirty, will not start, clean up and visually inspect

SOURCE: 1992 jeep wrangler with faulty acceleration. It

It is possibly the O2 sensor. I had some issues with early 90's 4.0 liters where the O2 sensor would stick rich under heavy acceleration and would cause it to lean out and bog down. It felt like a rochester four barrel flat spot on an old chevy. I hope this helps.

SOURCE: 97 dodge ram no spark

then i would replace whats called the hall effect sensor its that black plastic plate you see when you take dist cap off. just pull rotor and lift up the sensor.dist cap is what holds it on.also under the sensor will be a stamped sheet metal piece that looks like the top of a castle wall. make sure its not loose on the shaft.if it is then new dist will be needed

Jeffrey Turcotte

• 8991 Answers
• Posted on Apr 03, 2011

SOURCE: my honda oddessey 1995, my

Hi, since you've replaced everything else, about the only thing left is the crankshaft position sensor. This is the sensor the computer uses to time the spark signals. Because this sensor is expensive, I recommend you test it first to verify it's bad before replacing. I have pasted test procedures below as well as replacement procedure in case it fails the tests. You will need an ohmmeter for the test. If you don't have an ohmmeter, you can buy one for as little as $10, or maybe you can borrow one. You will also need a timing light if you replace the sensor. Please let me know if you have questions, and thanks for using FixYa.

TESTING CRV and 1995 Odyssey Models

1. With the ignition switch OFF , detach the electrical connector on the side of the distributor housing.
2. Measure the resistance between the following two CKP wires:
   
   CRV models: The blue and white wires. The resistance should be 300-700 ohms. 1995 Odyssey models: The blue/green and blue/yellow wires. The resistance should be 700-1,300 ohms.
   
3. If the resistance is not in the specified range, replace the distributor ignition housing.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION CRV and 1995 Odyssey Models

1. Remove the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the distributor cap leaving the wires attached and place aside.
3. Disconnect the electrical connectors at the side of the distributor housing.
4. Make a matchmark reference mark between the distributor housing and the cylinder head and remove the distributor housing assembly.

1. Transfer the components not supplied with the replacement distributor housing assembly.
2. Install the distributor housing assembly in the reverse order of removal.

Fig. Fig. 2: The Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor rotor looks like a small gear in the lower distributor housing- CRV and 1995 Odyssey models

7. Check and reset the ignition timing as outlined below.

ADJUSTMENT CRV and 4-Cylinder Odyssey Models

If equipped with an automatic transaxle, place the shifter in Park or Neutral. If equipped with a manual transaxle place the shifter in Neutral. Make sure to apply the parking brake and block the drive wheels.

1. With the heater off and in the full cold position, start the engine and hold the engine speed at 3000 rpm, until the radiator fan comes on at least one time. To check the ignition timing, the engine must be at idle speed and at normal operating temperature. Make sure all electrical consumers (defroster, radio, air conditioning, lights, etc.,) are turned OFF.
2. Locate the blue plastic Service Check (SCS) Connector, as follows:
   
   Odyssey models with 4-cylinder engines: centrally located on the passenger side, under the dash. The connector has two wires; one is brown with a black tracer, and the other wire is red.

Fig. Fig. 1: The inductive lead of the timing light is placed around the No. 1 spark plug wire; and the light is aimed toward the marks on the crankshaft pulley.

Fig. Fig. 2: The red ignition timing mark on the crankshaft pulley is lined up with the pointer. The two small notches on either side of the red colored notch represent the plus (+) or minus (-) 2° increments. The white notch to the far right is Top Dead Center (TDC)

1. Connect the SCS service connector tool number 07PAZ-0010100 or equivalent to the service connector. A paper clip can be substituted for the tool by forming a "U" shaped bend in the paper clip and carefully inserting it into the back side of the SCS service connector terminals. The purpose of the tool is simply to connect the two wires together temporarily.
2. Connect a timing light to No. 1 ignition wire and point the light toward the pointer on the timing belt cover.
3. Check the idle speed and adjust if necessary.
4. The red mark on the crankshaft pulley should be aligned with the pointer on the timing belt cover.
   

1. Adjust the ignition timing by loosening the distributor mounting bolts and rotating the distributor housing to adjust the timing. Set as follows:
   2.2L/2.3L Odyssey 2.2L models: 13-17° at 650-750 rpm
   
2. Tighten the distributor bolts to 17 ft. lbs. (24 Nm) and recheck the timing.
3. Remove the SCS service connector or the substituted paper clip from the SCS service plug.