2001 Ford Mustang V6. Check engine light came on. I hear a ticking coming from the right hand side of the engine compartment. Goes away in a few seconds but comes back on low rpms(when I need to shift down). I have a manual transmission. The car also seems to be alot harder on fuel than my moms 2007 Mustang V6 and hers is a automatic. I try to shift normal, as in not speed shifting, so I get the best mileage. Any ideas on what the problem could be would be appreciated.

SOURCE: Ford Escape Automatic Only Goes Into 1st Gear Manually

it sound like you have a vacum leak or your shifter cable may need adjusted

joecoolvette

• 5660 Answers
• Posted on Oct 31, 2009

SOURCE: Ford ranger, getting harder to shift into gear

Suggest you check the fluid level of the transmission first. Remove the fill plug, and see if it is Below the proper level. Do Not fill at this time! There is a reason for this.

Then I would suggest draining the fluid. You are also looking for brass fragments in the fluid. Drain into a three quart metal, or plastic drain pan. (They are approximately 18 inches across, and 4 inches deep)

1.Manual transmissions use Synchronizer's made of a brass alloy. The synchronizers have tapered teeth, that the nose of the teeth can be worn down. Also a tapered surface on the synchronizer, that can be worn down. Brass fragments in the transmission fluid is a sign of this wear.

Some brass 'dust' will occur as normal wear. A large accumulation means you have problems. Transmission is hard to shift, is one of those symptoms due to this.

This link to an animated working of a five-speed manual transmission, may help to explain how the components interact with each other, and also help me to explain the Synchronizer/s.
(From Howstuffworks.com - Auto- Under the Hood - Transmissions and Drivetrain)

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/transmission3.htm

Looking at the animation, observe the 'gold' colored parts. In particular, observe the the pair of gold colored teeth at the rear. (The teeth are in a vertical row, going up and down)

Now also observe the blue colored teeth next to them, on either side. (On the spinning gears)
You are looking at a side view of the transmission, and also a side view of the Synchronizers.

The synchronizers are round just like the gears. They have a Female tapered surface where they meet the gear. The gear has a Male tapered surface on the outside of the gear, that matches.

When the female tapered surface of the synchronizer meets the male tapered surface of the gear, the friction contact makes the synchronizer start turning the same speed, as the gear.

Helps the gear being shifted into start turning also, and the - teeth of the synchronizer, - gear to be engaged, and - already turning components are synchronized to each other. They will be all turning the same speed, so shifting will be smooth.

This shows you Synchronizer rings for a 4-speed Muncie transmission,

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MUNCIE-4-SPEED-BRASS-SYNCHRONIZER-RINGS-1963-TO-1974_W0QQitemZ360137693405QQcmdZViewItem?rvr_id=&itemid=360137693405

Enlarge it for a better view.
See the teeth going around the synchronizer ring? Notice that they are pointed, or V shaped. When the nose, or tip of this V is worn down, a manual transmission is hard to shift.

Also observe the flat landing on top. (In this view it's on top) The flat landing has three rectangular cutouts in it. (There are used for Detents)

Come from that top landing, down the side to the teeth. This Side has a tapered surface. Tapered ever so slightly, that it is not readily visible in this photo.
When this tapered surface wears down, the transmission is hard to shift.

Summation?
1.Low fluid will cause hard shifting. It will also cause abnormally high wear of the synchronizer rings, (Synchronizer Rings are also referred to as 'Blocker Rings')

2.Worn Synchronizer Rings,
Broken or worn Detent 'buttons',
Broken Detent Springs,
and worn Synchronizer Hub's,
will cause hard shifting.

Should you not have an abnormal amount of brass shavings in your transmission fluid, and found the fluid to be low, you may want to just replace the fluid to the proper level, and see if this works first.

If so, I suggest contacting your Ford dealer, and see what the proper transmission fluid is for YOUR Ford Ranger. They will go by THE transmission is used in your truck, and will have any updates if better fluid has been developed since your truck was made.

I know dealers are expensive to buy from sometimes, but I implore you to use the transmission fluid they recommend.
It will have special additives.

SOURCE: 2007 dodge grand caravan . using alot of oil with

5000 is too long in between oil changes for that vehicle. Change it every 3000

SOURCE: I have a 2001 Ford Mustang, v6 3.8 5 speed manual

Hi Bobby, I found this bulletin on I believe the problem you are talking about. Hopes this helps ya put.. Cobra.. Please read..
FORD: 1999-2004 Mustang
ISSUE: Some 1999-2004 Mustang vehicles equipped with a T5, T45 or TR3650 manual transmission, may exhibit a hard to shift condition into first or reverse gears from a stop. This may be due to an incomplete disengagement of the clutch (lack of clutch pedal reserve).
ACTION: Refer to the following Service Procedure. It may be necessary to adjust the clutch pedal down-stop and the clutch pedal shaft nut to gain full pedal travel.
SERVICE PROCEDURE

1. Lift up on the clutch pedal to reset it.
2. Measure the clutch reserve per the instructions listed in the Workshop Manual Section 308-00, Diagnosis and Testing, Manual Transmission and Clutch. NOTE: THE MINIMUM RESERVE NEEDED FOR GT, LX AND 1999-2001 COBRA IS 19 MM (3/4").
   
   
   1. If the measurement obtained is larger than these values, DO NOT CONTINUE WITH THIS TSB. Follow normal Workshop Manual diagnostics listed in Section 308-03.
   2. If the measurement obtained is less than these values, make sure that the floor mat or excessive material under the carpet is not preventing the pedal from reaching its full travel. Correct any obstruction, if the condition is corrected return the vehicle to the customer. If the condition is not corrected proceed to Step 3.
3. Visually examine the pedal down-stop to see if it is preventing the pedal from reaching its full travel to the carpet. Correct if necessary by removing the rubber pad on the down-stop. If the condition is corrected return the vehicle to the customer. If the condition is not corrected proceed to Step 4.
4. Additional travel can be obtained by loosening the clutch pedal shaft nut and adjusting as needed per Section 308-00 of the Workshop Manual. If the condition is corrected return the vehicle to the customer. If the condition is not corrected proceed to Step 5.
5. If inadequate reserve is still present refer to Workshop Manual Section 308-00 for clutch pressure plate and disc diagnostics

SOURCE: Manual shift light blinks, chugs when accelerating.

Hi Seth, Check out your engine and gear box mountings! Regards John