Take it to a qualified repair shop , Thinking ??? Also was thinking the MAF sensor or Intake Air sensor might be faulty . TESTING IS THE WAY TO A PROPER FIX !!!!!
The cheapest thing you can do at this point in time is to flush it. The problem with that is unless it is power flushed thetorqueconverterwill remain full of cruddytransmissionfluid. Yes you can do it your self, it is generally messy as you need to jack the thing up and unbolt thetransmissionpan unless there is a drain on it some where and the drain the fluid, the unbolting of the pan spills it all over the place. You will need a new gasket and some gasket sealer, RTV or something better. Your choice. It probably would be to your benefit to try to take the warpage out of pan hold downs with a hammer, actually two, one to hammer the point where the bolts went through if that is how you had to deal with things things and the other to act as a dolly. A new filter because it never hurts to have one and what evertransmissionfluid is required.
And my suggestion would be to obtain some LUCAStransmissionadditive. I have had some interesting success with Lucas products to the point now when I perform atransmissionmaintenanceI automatically use it.
Problems like yours need to be diagnosed by a technowizard like this guy , using a lab scope . Hooking up cam ,crank , VSS , MAF , MAP sensors . https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IzZNlPosGSYCAM and CRK Wiring Diagrams Did you check the circuit for the crank sensor .
There is only one mode of operation that is the ECM always controls spark. If the CKP pulses are lost the engine will not run. The loss of the CMP signal may result in a longer crank time since the ECM can not determine which stroke the pistons are on.
Jump the battery. If it gets to low, the solenoid for the key won't work and release the key. Just a note. If it is that low replace the battery. Have it checked first, but most likely dead.
bad batteries can charge up to twelver volts. Monitor voltage while crankung if it drops to or below 8 volts you do have a bad battery. It could be a solenoid switch although that starter should have come with a new one. Baterry terminals can corrode to the point that that they will not cobduct. Also ignition switch could have broken.. Last but perhaps the first thing to check is a coolant leak... A cylander full of antifreeze coolant will prevent the engine from turning over. The new starter we put on a friends car did turn the engine over bending a rod and breaking a piston. Had we know a cylander was full of water we could have done head gaskets instead he spent four thousand dollars on a full overhaul.
Without testing your guess is as good anyones on here . New radio - new amp ? Factory or aftermarket ? Is there B+ voltage to the radio , and does it have good ground .
You have 2/4/6 timing marks 180 degress out on exhaust or intake cam .
Did your special tool ?
Rotate the crankshaft using the J 42098 until the #1 cylinder is at 60 degrees before top dead center (BTDC).
Install theJ 42069 Crankshaft Locking Tool.
Rotate the crankshaft in the engine rotational direction (clockwise) using the J 42098 until the #1 cylinder is at top dead center (TDC) and tighten the lever arm to the water pump pulley flange.
Important: Ensure that the alignment of the crankshaft is not 180 degrees off. The alignment mark must align with the corresponding notches on the rear timing belt cover.
Install the 1-2 and 3-4 camshaft locks, the J42069-1 Timing Belt Alignment Kit and the J42069-2.
Important: Do not rotate the crankshaft if the camshafts are not locked in place with the 1-2 and 3-4 camshaft locks (J42069-1 and J42069-2).
Important: Do not rotate the camshafts unless the crankshaft is at 60 degrees BTDC or the valves may contact the crankshaft.
Loosen the tensioner pulley.
Remove the timing belt.
Just to add to this one if the reduced power light is coming on then your having a failure in your electronic throttle system. Get the computer scanned for codes and post the exact code numbers not the code descriptions.
