That won't be fuses. Not all would go at the same time. That being said, I would still double back and recheck them. Check the relays in the fuse box. The fuse box cover will have a "map" that identifies which relay or relays you need to check.
Could be starter, battery, battery cables, security key system module going bad, etc.
Check easiest things first. Battery condition and age, condition of cables, and connections at starter.
This is a very common problem on GM vehicles. The security system is known to fail. Basically when you insert your key, the system checks for certain OHMS resistance. If the system cannot get the correct signal from the key, it assumes the key is incorrect and goes into SECURITY lockout mode. (prevents hotwiring) This has been happening with GM;s for a very long time. There are ways to bypass this now. Read through this page for info, solutions as well.
http://www.diy-gm-security.com/
Maybe it was the pcv hose. Try disconnecting hoses from the intake manifold and plugging the manifold ports. If plugging a certain port causes the idle to drop, whatever was connected there is causing the excessive flow.
Do It Yourself Diagnosis and RepairDo It Yourself Diagnosis and Repair
Do you or your husban know how to trouble shoot automotive electrical systems , using a wiring diagram and a DVOM - digital volt ohm meter ? Do you know how to trouble shoot electronic control modules an circuitry ? The BCM - body control module controls the power locks , anti-theft system . The first step in diagnosing problems like this involve hooking of a scan tool that can pull BCM codes . No auto parts store can check these codes .
DOOR LOCKING/UNLOCKING
Door locking/unlocking, by remote keyless entry (RKE) or driver/all door lock switches, is controlled through the BCM.
When a driver door unlock has been requested, the BCM switches circuit 694 to battery voltage. This energizes the driver door unlock relay which supplies power to the driver door lock motor. Grounding is achieved through the closed contacts of the all-door lock relay. Grounding is also achieved through the windings of the all-door lock motors and the all-door unlock relay.
When an all-door unlock has been requested, the BCM switches circuit 194 to battery voltage. This energizes the door unlock relay which supplies power to the all-door lock motors. Grounding is achieved through the closed contacts of the door lock relay. Grounding is also achieved through the winding of the driver door lock motor and the driver door unlock relay.
When an all-door lock has been requested, the BCM switches circuit 195 to battery voltage. This energizes the door lock relay which supplies power to all-door lock motors. Grounding is achieved through the closed contacts of the door unlock relay and the BCM.
Lock/Unlock power application is limited by the BCM to 7 seconds to protect lock motors.
SECURITY SYSTEM
The passlock sensor is powered by circuit 1459. The passlock sensor is grounded by circuit 1835. Passlock sensor data is supplied to the BCM by circuit 1836.
The passlock sensor data supplied to the BCM is in the form of V-codes or voltage codes. When the proper ignition key is turned in the ignition switch, the correct V-code is supplied to the BCM. The BCM responds by sending a serial data password to the engine controller allowing the engine to run.
Under a tamper condition, a specific V-code is supplied to the BCM. The BCM will send a class II message to the PCM disabling the fuel injectors.
Electric Testing Techniques You Need to KnowECM Inputs and Outputs Diagnosishttp://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html free wiring diagrams ! Enter vehicle info. year , make , model an engine size . Under system click on Body & Accessories , then under subsystem click on Body controls .Then click on the search button , then the blue link . You will see all inputs and outputs from the BCM . Check B+ voltage at the door lock switches . Check door lock fuse 20amp . Check door lock an unlock relays .
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Body_control_module
Also test the starting circuit !
How to voltage drop test starter motor circuit
In the diagram, top wires to headlamps are voltage, bottoms wires are ground.
Your dimmer/headlamp switch are on the ground circuit for headlamps. Voltage to headlamps are hot all the time, use a testlite or something and check for voltage at headlamp connector. To check proper ground wire, use a test lite connected to battery voltage, touch the ground wire terminal, if the lite comes on, at least the ground is good enough to turn on test lamp.
There may be a problem with multi-function switch?
Frame bolts, I run to around 120 +or -. Ball and tierod, around 75( do not loosen, keep tightening them to get to cotter pin in). the sway bar link, I run it down till the rudder is between 1/2 and 3/4 inch thick.
Depends on shop rate. But looking at about 4 hours labor plus parts. So I would guess around $300 to $500. I'm guessing you have the 4 cylinder. So it could be more as it is old and parts break removing them. Like the rusty water jacket that runs under the engine.
It does NOT have a traditional oil pump,it uses an impeller type, and its located inside the timing chain cover.
It works a lot like the Spirograph toy that kids played with, but pumps oil instead. Only two moving parts, so it's reliable.
It is powered by the crankshaft.
That car doesn't have them. Anytime you need to find information on filters, Fram has a great parts finder; they also include where the part is located on the car.
there are several likely reasons -
Poor/no flow of heated coolant through heater core (heat exchanger - mini radiator in cabin) this could be due to closed valve or blockage in pipe of core.
No air flow - bad blower, blend door problem
Hopefully it won't come down to a core replacement!
When you say travelled 10 miles then would not start, do you mean it would not crank at all, or cranks but doesn't start? If no crank, could be faulty starter motor/solenoid getting heat soaked. If it cranks but won't fire up, more likely bad ignition module, coil, crank or cam sensor. They get hot and can fail just when hot.
Remove wheels undo the slide pin bolts or pins which ever applies push calliper piston,s in with special tool or a G clamp fit new pads then reverse the removal.
there is little weep hole under your water pump and coolant will leak out of it once it needs to be replaced. Your water pump will sometimes make an awful high pitched squeal without leaking which in that case would also require replacing. I'd also suggest checking heater hoses because they can also leak.