Cars and Trucks

Why did you not leave the vehicle at a repair shop or dealer
to be properly diagnosed & repaired

Any time you get any dash light on after the motor is running I
check for codes that day & get on with the required checking
& resolving within days or use another vehicle

You should stop using a vehicle with check lights & faults
& forget the free codes checks at the parts stores


Always use a professional scan tool & look at all data real time
generic & enhanced something a code read won't do & go for
a long road test with the scan along

Cylinder misfires will ruin an expensive exhaust converter
as will vacuum leaks,leaking injectors etc.

Today's vehicles need to be 100% or parked or you create
problems,do damage,run up your repair costs & shorten the
life of the vehicle all thanks to the Govt Emission non-sense

Take it to autozone or another place like it and have them read the codes and tell us what they are.

it is not how many miles but the type of driving.

here is a OBD2 drive cycle test.

Generic OBD II "Drive Cycle" Most OBD II ("On-Board Diagnostics II") diagnostic monitors will run at some time during normal operation of the vehicle.
However, to satisy all of the different Trip enable criteria and run all of the OBD II diagnostic monitors, the vehicle must be driven under a variety of conditions. The following drive cycle will (theoretically) allow all monitors to run on (??) vehicle. (Note: Drive cycle specifics vary by vehicle!)

1. Ensure that the fuel tank is between 1/4 and 3/4 full.
2. Start cold (below 86°F /30°C) and warm up until engine coolant temperature is at least 160° F (typically requires at least one minute; up to 3 minutes).
3. Accelerate to 40-55 MPH at 25% throttle and maintain speed for five minutes.
4. Decelerate without using the brake (coast down) to 20 MPH or less, then stop the vehicle. Allow the engine to idle for 10 seconds, turn the key off, and wait one minute.
5. Restart and accelerate to 40-55 MPH at 25% throttle and maintain speed for two minutes.
6. Decelerate with using the brake [or the clutch!] by coasting down to 20 MPH or less, then stop the vehicle. Allow the engine to idle for 10 seconds, turn the key off, and wait one minute.

You can get hte codes from this BMW by turning the ignition key to the run position and then press the accelerator pedal to the floor 5 times, it will enter the diagnostic mode, count the flashes just like obd 1. Hope this helps, let me know

Just serviced my own 4x4 Suburban, by buying a 2nd hand encoder motor and replaced the old one, which was trashed by the winter salt. The device is prone to failure since it's made of alluminium and water has an easy time of entering the unit and trashing it.

CAUTION: Abbreviated gratuitous information of how an encoder motor was serviced. If unqualified to deal with repair, seek professional service.
CAUTION: Read at one's own risk.

To replace it, you need to crawl under the vehicle and remove the front drive shaft;

Disconnect the electric harness to the encoder motor, followed by unbolting it.

Take replacement encoder motor and install. There may be an issue with aligning the cogged cam of the transfer case to the encoder motor. If so, the vehicle's 4 wheels will need to be raised off the ground. The engine started, transmission in Park, and using a Vice-Grip® wrench gently rotate cam clockwise approximately 1/16 to 1/8 of an inch, then while set in this position, stop engine. Now attempt to align and attach the encoder motor.

After successfully attaching new encoder motor, attach its wiring loom.
Test vehicle.