Top 20 1998 Toyota Corolla Questions & Answers

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Question edited for clarity. Question moved to model category. https://www.toyotanation.com/threads/2000-corolla-headlight-drl-issue.1647990/ You will probably need an auto electrician. https://www.google.com/search?q=1998+toyota+corolla+headlight+wiring+diagram&sca_esv=582701142&rlz=1C1QJDB_enCA643CA644&tbm=isch&sxsrf=AM9HkKm2mR4yko0DN4uhvyAIBuTuLesQpA:1700077201607&source=lnms&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiU18SN4caCAxVxFVkFHfQzDoQQ_AUoAXoECAIQAw&biw=1920&bih=931&dpr=1 ..

I'm assuming yours is a saloon style body shape. The seats are not designed to drop like in a hatch back or an estate car so you will need to remove the rear seats completely. You remove the seat base pad first. Run your hand between the base of the cushion and the floor panel it rests on. You should find two positions where it is fastened down. These are large 'push in' clips so a good firm pull upwards should release them. This will reveal three screws across the bottom edge of the backrest cushion, left, right and centre. Remove these and the seat pad should swing out at the bottom and unhook across the top edge. This should give you access to the metal body panel separating the trunk from the rest of the car. There are holes in this panel so you should just need to push your way past the trunks carpet liner. Refitting the seat pads is easy. Hook the back rest into place and if positioned correctly you three screw holes should line up nicely to refit the screws. Position the seat base pad back edge first then use the tips of your fingers to make sure the push in clips are lined up. Then simply use your body weight downwards to 'pop' the clips back in.

Two possibilities. They have the combination switch in common. Turn the 4 way switch on and off several times to get a better connection. Also make sure the turn signal fuse is ok.

Let's start with...did it work and stop

The valve body in the transmission do not get oil pressure probably the filter dirty you need transmission service,all the best.

For heavy machinery cars etc. luckily there are many websites that can help you repair for eg site like reliable-store is very active in this.. instant help, emails and all that's fantastic

You should go to www.reliable-store.com they have got books on every vehicle and also how to service/repair it, service/repair/owner's/maintenance manual with parts info, fuse box, gear box, torque specs,coiling, wiring diagrams, electrical diagrams, fuse diagrams, error codes, etc everything Worth it

I tried the DIY service and repair manuals from a website and it actually helped me repair transmission problem in my ford explorer. it wont move forward or reverse, engine is good both solenoids for forward and reverse work. I don't have much technical knowledge but I just followed it step-wise, and works perfect! got it from www.reliable-store.com

run the fault codes possible and injector problem or crank/ cam position sensor failing

take it to a suspension shop and have them check the rubber bearing support at the top of the struts inside the engine bay That rubber can tear away and still remain in place but if the car is jacked up it allows the top of the strut to fall out IF that is not the problem you are in the right place to have the front suspension check out only use accredited suspension professional shops

I think your fuel pump is worn out although you hear the pump running it doesn't mean it pumping fuel

You need to start from the basics and do a compression test to see if you have even compression on all cylinders. If it is considerably lower on one or more cylinders it could be burnt valves or head gasket leaking. If the compressions are all close then you can eliminate the valves and head gasket and look for intake gasket moved out or faulty coil or injectors. Start from the basics and work up from there, if you start replacing parts without the diagnosis then you can waste money on parts you don't need.

Reprogram your cars alarm,there are many ways depending on your alarm and car model

hello, it could be ground connection issue, carefully check under the dash at the left side there is a ground bus point, it's a the end of a insulated harness which may be taped to the other harness, all white black wires terminate at the end plug connector, there is a cap on the end, it's a white connector with a bunch of wires going into it, all white/black, remove the cap there may be some corrosion inside, all these wires must be grounded if they are not then make new ground connections to the body. a couple of the wires are grounded and the others get ground from them, however you do it doesn't matter as long as all are grounded. Also take a look at the fuse box inside there may be some wires that look overheated which is a sure sign of bad grounds in the DRL and lighting system,

if you think its about transmission , check if transm. level is ok , also check the transm. oil strainer for dirty

The noise you are hearing and feeling is very likely due to a low fluid level. I'd suggest you start by filling the power steering reservoir to the correct level with the correct fluid. Cycle the steering from lock to lock a few times to see if the noise gets better or goes away completely. Monitor the fluid level to determine how quickly the fluid leaks out and also to see if you can tell where the leak is coming from. Be aware though that the longer you drive the car with a low fluid level condition, the more damage you will cause and the more expensive the repair will be.

Most overheating problems are caused by a stuck closed thermostat, if it has already been replaced the next common cause is a clogged radiator, have it checked at a REAPIR SHOP OR RADIATOR SHOP IF YOU REMOVE IT YOURSELF

PO420 bad catalytic did replace with cheap one?

I show it is a 30mm (front)