20 Most Recent 1994 Toyota Camry - Page 3 Questions & Answers

The previous owner has screwed things up by changing the air intake and eliminating the air temp sensor. The car's computer depends on a series of sensors to determine what fuel mixture it should command, and now it can't do that properly. When the car is cold, it knows from the coolant temp, and it sends plenty of fuel, but when hot it is getting the mixture wrong. Restore the air intake to original, with the correct sensors, as it should run OK. If not, then go looking for a vacuum leak or an air leak in the air intake hose and plenum somewhere.

generally to be honest with you ladies and gentlemen,dont trust any marks especially old vehicles,if youre mechanic you need to knw timing valve sequential by heart so that you can use marks as a cross check after everything installed. Example vw cam pulley comparing to an Audi cam pulley looks similar,same diameter even teeth gears are the same but differs in mark,the other mark at 12 oclock and the other at10 oclock.

In that model the wiring would sometimes fray and break where it enters the trunk (or boot) near the trunk lid hinge. Inspect the wiring bundle closely near the hinge for damage. Otherwise the park/neutral switch, on the front side of the transmission, has developed a fault and should be tested. This switch also senses reverse position. .

I have a 1994 Camry also. I don't believe there will be any problem for you, as those engines are not as highly stressed as today's are. Of far more importance is the regular change of engine oil and filter at least every 10 000 km or 6 months. http://www.penriteoil.com.au/tech_pdfs/0Zinc%20Myths%20&%20Legends%20Nov%202014.pdf

The crankshaft position sensor in this engine is on the distributor shaft, and you have replaced that. In these model years Camrys will develop a break in the base of the EFI main relay, meaning the car's computer gets no voltage. You can tell if this is so because the check engine light in the instruments does not come on when you turn on the ignition and crank it. You can also sometimes get it going by wiggling the EFI main relay, in the front fuse block in the engine bay, near the strut tower top. However the fault will return soon, possibly causing the engine to die while driving, which is dangerous. So check that out, and maybe call an auto electrician. .

Bets, if the window motor is working then the problem is most likely your window regulator. One can generally find this part at most local salvage yards (Pick n Pull RULES) my daughter just had this problem it was a $17 and about an hour job - removing door panels was the worst part but doable in an afternoon good luck

The problem of the car dying should be unrelated to the worn key and ignition barrel, as the electrical contacts only depend on the key turning, which it does. The car may have - - a vacuum leak somewhere in the intake tract. Look for a split in the big flexible coupling after the air cleaner - insuffiicient fuel pressure. This might be a blocked filter, pinched fuel line (from a rock), failing pump, or a faulty overpressure release valve in the fuel rail. Get a fuel pressure gauge connected to the fuel rail and see what it reads. .

What light comes on?? The ABS?

Linkage is bad or internal problm..car is worn..testdrive from honestmech

No The ECU does not shut it down, More than likely you have a bad connection or a bad sensor such as you crank position sensor, You have an OBD I, get your codes read or find out how to read the flashes from the check engine light. The codes will narrow down your problem for you.

There is no such thing as a freeze plug, they are sand casting clean outs.

Here is a great video tutorial

The power window master switch is supplied from the power main relay and M-fuse located in junction block 1, under the dash on the driver's side. See here p-9 http://www.turboninjas.com/camry/be.pdf