20 Most Recent 2001 Toyota Corolla Questions & Answers

HAve you checked the guages fuse? That sounds like what may be causing the broad spectrum of problems..

I have never heard of a "Raum" but if there is a manual on it Auto Zone or O'Rilleys or the Haynes or Chilton's websites will have it.

Question edited for clarity. Question moved to Toyota Corolla. It hides behind the glove box. See the replacement videos. https://www.google.com/search?q=2001+toyota+corolla+replace+cabin+air+filter ..

could be the starter motor is faulty

The fuse you need to replace for your radio to work again is Fuse 15a, located on the left side of the steering wheel. There you will see a storage door, with a 15 a fuse marked cig. Replace it, and your clock and radio will be functional again.

Pull up the error code and then seek the solution accordingly.

I recommend checking the fuse for windshield wipers.

clutch solenoid electrical fault shift solenoid E electrical malfunction

There's a website that has all this information about all this and manuals everything totally free there are many actually but I personally like few .. let me know if u need help thanks

What are you talking about?

Please buy a cheap shop manual. Get this wrong and you will be very sorry.

there is a thrust plate on your crankshaft just inside your timing cover the letter A or B sould face you if you fit it wrong way around it will never start ....

well thank you very much you have me blushing : ) i went to school for automotive and after seeing people be taken advantage of till it almost made me sick i chose to take my own business path, I might not be the best mech in the biz, but i would like to think im the most honest, i have trouble charging people ive never met before lol and usually give them 1/2 the price a normal shop would with out marking up my parts 50% like most shops also, once again thank you.to explain what is happening, the heated o2 sensor between the engine takes a waveform (voltage reading to determin the air/fuel mixture) then the mixture travels through the cat and is cleaned and comes out to the 2nd post o2 sensor, the computer checks these to make sure they are different and that the cat is doing its job by changine (cleaning) the exhaust flow. the reason you are having this code thrown is because both sensors are reading the same which means that the converter isnt doing its job. now this means that the cat is bad, the heated #2 o2 sensor is defective, or the #2 o2 sensor circut is open/shorted.Tthe answer to your problem to the best of my knowledge would first make sure that is the only code that your car is throwing (to make sure another problem isnt causing this one) if p0420 is the only code showing you will want to check through the entire exhaust from the engine exhaust housing back to make sure you have no exhaust leaks. you may have a p0130 which is the heated o2 in the front or a p0136 which is a problem with the other o2 post cat. these codes should show, if they dont i would still go over the wiring of the sensors from them to the ecu make sure they are not shorted, if you go to a shop with a scan tool they should be able to check the o2's with it and make sure your fuel trims are where they should be also. if only the p0420 i would guess there is a leak somewhere, all the heat cold heat cold back and forth can loosen bolts and strech metal joints in the exhaust system. if that doesnt help please let me know and i will research it more much harder, but this is what the manual for your car says and what i believe also, please let me know and i'll get back to you right away, also make sure the cat didnt just randomly go bad, but dont let them replace stuff say you want it tested and make sure they have the right tools to do it. take care and thanks very much again. any other problems with anything else send them my way first, take care have a good night

Erik
EZ Automotive/U.S. Army

Ethir the idle is to high,or a motor/transmission mount is weak,or broken.Have some one look at the engine,and start the car.Put it in drive,and back into neutral and back and forth.Tell them to look for the engine to tip back and forth,more than 4 inches from where it sets normaly with out a load on it.You can also do this test,by putting it in drive and (ride the brake pedal)hold the brake firm,and gradually accellerate the gas,but have the person looking at engine,position themselves to the side of car(looking over fender)so the won`t be in front of the car,You can do this also in reverse,and you need to.If you get over movement ,then there is a mountor suport,or trans,or more than one,or two of the combinations that are weak,or bad.Also if there are any check engine lights on,it is possible that a solenoid on the trans is bad,making the trans go in gear,to quick,and not gradualy,like it should be.If this was helpful,please let us know,thank you.

If the car hasn't been towed to a mechanic yet, borrow a code scanner from an auto parts shop (free) and check for codes (fairly easy). Then look 'em up online. I'm guessing you might have a bad crankshaft or camshaft sensor, because they often fail hot. It's possible you have a broken timing belt (inside engine front cover -- not the serpentine belt that you can see). If so, there are probably all kinds of weird codes. And it's also possible the engine severely overheated and is now kaput -- but if the temp gauge rose only slightly and you didn't see steam or smell antifreeze, that's unlikely.

check to see if your car has an oil control valve

insufficent coolant temperature usually fixed by replacing the O2 sensors

Check your ball joints and your springs and struts sounds like a strut bearing or mount. also check your motor and tranny mounts

Check the following_ - Throttle cable adjustment. - Throttle body gasket for cracks or damage. - Throttle body for clogged. - Idle Air Control Valve for jammed of clogged. - Air or vacuum leaks in the intake manifold.

****SEE SAFETY NOTE BELOW**** If NO LIGHTS AT ALL....CHECK THE GROUND first not only on the battery but where it attached to the frame and engine. If your terminals have not been cleaned to a bright silver look not going to make good connection. IF you have power and you hear a little click NOTE sometimes you hear nothing though, it may be the STARTER throw-out SOLENOID that engages the Starter to the flywheel. Also check the POSITIVE connection to the STARTER if you HAVE lights and hear/ or the starter does NOTHING check for loose connection (on the starter you will need 2 wrenches or could break the brush in the starter ***DISCONNECT*** THE BATTERY BEFORE ATTEMPTING) . Once done spray terminal sealer on them to HELP keep them from corroding nothing is perfect. ****SAFETY NOTE ****WHEN DEALING WITH THE POSITIVE ( + ) WIRE/TERMINAL AT ANY TIME but ESPECIALLY TO THE STARTER... if you touch a WRENCH from it to ground not only do you SPARK but you could WELD THE WRENCH TO THE GROUND AND YES CALL 911 BECAUSE YOU "WILL" HAVE A FIRE ON YOUR HANDS VERY, VERY QUICKLY ! CAN'T SAY IT ENOUGH DISCONNECT THE GROUND ( - ) BATTERY LEADS BEFORE WORKING ON ELECTRICAL SYSTEM IF IN DOUBT TEST WITH A TESTER**** hope I helped