1986 Toyota MR2 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Don't worry I'm sure you will get the solution of your problem, just check the link I attached Toyota MR2 1983 1998 Workshop Service repair manual

their were 3 engines for the gen 1 mr2 a 1.5 --1.6---1.6 supercharged Toyota MR2 Wikipedia the free encyclopedia

burning coolant most likely blown head gasket

It depends on what you need overhauled and what is wrong with it. Check on Swedespeed or turbobricks, or any of the Volvo lists - there may be a Volvo guru near your location who is trusted and has decent prices. In Colorado, there's Carl Duke Volvo in Loveland and in Denver you have Voltek - both are excellent independent shops with people who love Volvos and know them inside and out. And not just the new stuff.

the capacitor for the pump is bad its a can strapped to side of unit inside it youll put your eye out working on it . only 35.00 to buy one.

The pump is in the fuel tank. To test short pin 1+2 on the air flow meter connector. Turn the ignition key to run position (2 click) and listen for the whir or hum of the pump.

If the U-joint is worn out on part # 45260, then that whole part needs to be replaced. There are no serviceable items on that piece. In order to remove it, you'll need to remove the retaining bolts part# 90119-08560 (top and bottom of said shaft), then you may have to pry the collars apart to get them to release from the other piece of the shaft. To make it easier, disconnect the lower portion of the steering shaft from the gearbox/rack and pinion. Also note, the shafts may be D shaped so shaft components may only be installed one way. If they're not, you'll need to mark positions on the remaining shaft components to when you're installing the new part the orientation stays correct. It also may be beneficial to lock the steering wheel in a set position so it doesn't rotate otherwise your turn signal cams may be in the wrong orientation and may not work properly. i.e. may not lock when depressed, or turn off at the wrong steering wheel position.

Try MHHAUTO.com they the best.

its in the FSM. or at alldata.com , log in and read. like us. or at mitchels.

Check thermostat,waterpump

COULD BE A BAD CONECTION @ BATTERY ,OR STARTER COULD BE GOING OUT,

You can checkout some Troubleshooting questions here, otherwise our technical staff are always available to answer your questions

you should be able to do it without taking engine out

The relay should be in the engine compartment near the battery.

U could of got the timing off by one tooth. It does not take much to put it out of time.

I experienced the same symptoms that you described in your post on my 1986 mr2. I originally thought is was a relay or switch so I tested all of them. Every one of them check out functioning properly. After a number of days, I finally traced the problem to a burnt wire that was part of a socket that plugs into a horizontal blue and white panel under the dash on the driver's side just above the fuse block. Apparently the wire had come loose after so many years of bumps and other jarring movement and shorted inside the socket. I cleaned up the socket and wire connector, restripped the wire and put it all back together and made sure the connector was tight on the post. Now it all works pefectly.

Make sure you have a good battery/connections. Make sure you have power down to the starter on the B+ terminal if not replace faulty wire or clean/dirty connectionson ensure connections are tight. While someone turns the key make sure you have power in the S terminal. If power make sure the engine isn't locked up and replace the starter. If no power you may have an issue with the ignition switch circuit (stitch, wiring, fuses....)

noway the bearing,s spun right away

you need a new idle control sencer you can get from most auto spairs shops
hope it works for you
thanks acemasters

if you mean the ecu, i think its in the boot on the wall shared with the engine bay, just remove the liner & it should be there.