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Hyundai Motor 1998 Accent - Page 8 Questions & Answers
How to change a clutch on a 1998 hyundai accent
This is a very big job. To get to the clutch the transaxle must be removed from the engine. Removing the transaxle involves removing: The exhaust pipe between the manifold and catalytic converter, the starter motor, a chassis cross member, both drive axles, and the tranmission shift linkage. Is there a highschool in your area with an autoshop class? The only other option is to have a repair shop do it. I would pay a shop to do the work. I think it's a good investment espesially if the rest of the car is in good condition. Sir, now I think you can get it now. Thank you Sir, Have a nice day.
Emergency Brake does not work
You handle should pull a cable, you need to see if the cable is moving with the handle, at both ends. (At the rear by the brakes also) Remove whatever covers the handle to see what is moving, or isn't....start here!
Not getting fuel
Have you actually removed the fuel line from the intake rail and tried starting vehicle to see if fuel pumped through or did you use a fuel pressure guage to ensure you had adequate pressure. Have you also checked your fuel filter for flow. (Remove fuel filter look for arrow/indication of correct flow and either blow through it or use air comp. nozzle to blow through it to see if it is clear or restricted. Let me know and I can help you further...
Not work in the morning
I had a problem with no starter action on my 2000 accent. Would come and go. I found the small ignition wire to the starter solenoid was corroded at its push-on terminal. Been fine since cleaning and a slight tightening squeeze with pliers.
The belt broke so I need to know where the timing
First you need to find out if this is a "safe" engine, a few are but most bend some valve when the belt goes (you could try turning gently by hand using the alternator belt) proceed as follows:-remove the drive belts, water pump pulleys, crank pulley, and the upper and lower timing covers. You'll also need to remove the motor mount if
You'll need to move the tensioner for installation of the new belt. Loosen both the pivot and clamp bolts on the tensioner. Pry the tensioner up and toward the back of the car, and when at the rearmost position, tighten the clamping bolt.
You'll also need to line up the camshaft and crankshaft to TDC. There's a small hole in the camshaft sprocket that lines up with a notch in the front camshaft bearing cap. The hole should be pretty much straight up when aligned. There's a notch in the crankshaft sprocket that lines up with a *** on the front case of the engine. If I recall correctly, this puts the Woodruff key at about 3:00 when aligned.
Then install the timing belt with all the slack on the tensioner side. Loosen the tensioner clamping bolt to release the tensioner, let it self-tension with the spring force, and retighten the clamping bolt. Turn the engine clockwise with the crankshaft two crankshaft revolutions (1 cam revolution). This will make sure you have the proper amount of slack on the tensioner side. Recheck to make sure your marks are still aligned. Then loosen the tensioner clamping bolt once again to let it self-adjust, and tighten the clamping and pivot bolts.
After that, it's just a matter of putting everything back that you took off, but before doing anything, you may wish to consider that it's likely engine damage was done when the timing belt broke. You may wish to pull the plugs and examine before you start anything mentioned above. Evidence of anything hitting the plug is a sign of a valve broken off and probably a need for an entire engine. You may also, after installing the timing belt, wish to bolt the crank pulley back on and see if the engine starts. If the engine cranks quickly (lack of compression) and won't start, you've at least bent some valves and will need to remove the cylinder head.
Ideal gasoline
87 octane is ideal for your accent.
It's a little commuter car. It's designed to save you money.
Anything over 87 is just a waste of money, UNLESS your engine is knocking at 87. Then you should step up to the next highest grade.
89 is a made up octane. It's just a mix of the lowest grade and the highest grade. I used to work at a mobil gas station for a year, and the only grades i knew wer 87 and 93, but 89 was an available option. it's just a way for oil companies to benefit off of ignorance.
91 and 93 is for high performance engines, turbo-induction, superchargers, that sort of stuff.
you should be fine sticking with the 87 though, but move up to "89 octane" or 91/93 if your engine knocks a lot.
hope this helps.
Fuel problems
Like this is REALLY informative? WHAT FUEL PROBLEM???... Tell you what, when you learn to COMMUNICATE.. maybe we can help you.. If not, then it will be very difficult.
Can't move car! Driver Back Wheel locked?
Sounds like your brake diaphragm in the rear that puts pressure on the pads has malfunctioned, if you know where your brake bleeding plug is you can maybe release the pressure real quick then tighten it back, but, it sounds like a repair shop unless you work on them yourself.
Window crank
I had the same problem. If you look at the outside of the door while cranking the window, look to see if the window is trying to go on the outside of the outer seal. If so, you will have to check to see if the window is loose on the tracks. On mine, the track frame had spread open. I repaired it and used graphite to lube the track.
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