20 Most Recent 2001 Saturn SL - Page 8 Questions & Answers

It is a chain and its not the easiest but it could be worse.It is as follows:
1.9L SOHC Engine

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section.
2. Drain the engine oil.
3. Remove or disconnect the following:
   • Negative battery cable
   • Right front wheel and splash shield
   NOTE: Place a 1 in. x 1 in. x 2 in. long block of wood between the torque strut and cradle to ease removal and installation of the torque engine mount.
   • 3 right side upper engine torque axis to front cover nuts and the 2 mount to midrail bracket nuts, allowing the powertrain to rest on the block of wood
   • Drive belt, tensioner and pulley
   • Power steering pump attaching bolts and set the pump to the side with the lines still attached
   • A/C compressor from the bracket and set aside with the lines attached
   • Camshaft cover
   • Using a strap wrench or a piece of wood wedged between the damper spoke and the lower side of the engine front cover, hold the damper and remove the bolt. With a suitable 3-jaw puller and the slots cast into the damper, pull the crankshaft damper/pulley assembly from the crankshaft.
   • Install the special oil seal replacement tool SA9104E, to be sure the front crankshaft timing sprocket is held firmly in place and prevent guide damage. Install with the flat side towards the crankshaft sprocket.
   • Remove or disconnect the following:
     • Front 4 oil pan bolts and cut the seal away from the front cover
     • Front cover bolts and carefully pry the cover away from the cylinder block at the pry location tabs, which are provided. Remove the cover from under the hood or through the wheel well
     • Front cover oil seal from the cover
     NOTE: During timing chain and sprocket removal, position the crankshaft 90 degrees past Top Dead Center (TDC), to be sure the pistons will not contact the valves upon assembly.
     
   • Carefully rotate the crankshaft clockwise so the timing mark on the crankshaft sprocket and keyway align with the main bearing cap split line (90 degrees past TDC).
   • Remove or disconnect the following:
     • Timing guides and tensioner
     • Camshaft sprocket bolt, using a 7⁄8 in. (21mm) wrench to hold the camshaft. Then, remove the timing chain and camshaft sprocket
     • Crankshaft sprocket
     To install:
     
   • Inspect the chain for wear and damage. Check the inside diameter of the chain, it should be no more than 16.77 in. (426mm). Inspect the chain guides for wear or cracks and the timing sprockets for teeth or key wear. Replace components as necessary.
   • Verify that the crankshaft keyway is positioned 90 degrees clockwise past TDC (keyway at 3 o'clock). The keyway should align with the split between the bearing cap and engine block.
   • Bring the camshaft up to No. 1 TDC by loosely installing the sprocket and rotating the sprocket until the timing pin can be inserted. The camshaft contains wrench flats to assist in turning the shaft. The dowel pin should be at 12 o'clock when the camshaft is at TDC.
   • Install the crankshaft sprocket, then rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise 90 degrees up to No. 1 TDC (keyway at 12 o'clock).
   • Position the chain under the crankshaft sprocket and over the camshaft sprocket. The timing chain should be positioned so that 1 silver link plate aligns with the reference mark on the camshaft sprocket and the other aligns with the downward tooth (at the 6 o'clock position) on the crankshaft sprocket. The letters FRT on the camshaft sprocket must face forward, away from the cylinder head and excess chain slack should be located on the tensioner side of the block.
   • Install or connect the following:
     • Timing pin to verify proper alignment of the camshaft and sprocket. Torque the sprocket bolt to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm).
     NOTE: Do not allow the camshaft retaining bolt to torque against the timing pin or cylinder head damage will result.
     • Timing chain guides with the words FRONT facing out. Install the fixed guide first and verify the chain is snug against the guide, then install the pivot guide. Torque the bolts to 19 ft. lbs. (26 Nm) and verify that the pivot guide moves freely
     • Retract the tensioner plunger and pin the ratchet lever using a 1⁄8 in. No. 31 drill bit inserted in the alignment hole at the bottom front of the component
     • Tensioner. Torque the bolts to 14 ft. lbs. (19 Nm), then remove the drill bit
   • Make one final check to verify all components are properly timed, then remove all timing pins.
   • Install or connect the following:
     • Seat a new front cover oil seal using the installation tool with a press
     • If the engine front cover casting or assembly is replaced, the 3 torque axis mount studs should also be replaced. Torque the new studs to 19 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).

1.9L (DOHC) Engine

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section.
2. drain the engine oil.
3. Remove or disconnect the following:
   • Negative battery cable
   • Right front wheel and splash shield
   NOTE: Place a 1 x 1 x 2 in. (25 x 25 x 51mm) block of wood between the torque strut and cradle to ease removal and installation of the torque engine mount.
   • 3 right side upper engine torque axis to front cover nuts and the 2 mount to midrail bracket nuts, allowing the powertrain to rest on the block of wood
   • Drive belt, tensioner and pulley
   • Power steering pump attaching bolts and set the pump to the side with the lines still attached
   • A/C compressor from the bracket and set it to the side with the lines attached
   • Camshaft cover
4. Using a strap wrench or a piece of wood wedged between the damper spoke and the lower side of the engine front cover, hold the damper and remove the bolt. With a suitable 3-jaw puller and the slots cast into the damper, pull the crankshaft damper/pulley assembly from the crankshaft.
5. Install the special oil seal replacement tool SA9104E or equivalent, to be sure the front crankshaft timing sprocket is held firmly in place and prevent guide damage. Install with the flat side towards the crankshaft sprocket.
6. Remove or disconnect the following:
   • Front 4 oil pan bolts and cut the seal away from the front cover
   • Front cover bolts and carefully pry the cover away from the cylinder block at the pry location tabs, which are provided. Remove the cover from under the hood or through the wheel well
   • Front cover oil seal from the cover
   NOTE: During timing chain and sprocket removal, position the crankshaft 90 degrees past top Dead Center (TDC), to be sure the pistons will not contact the valves upon assembly.
   
7. Carefully rotate the crankshaft clockwise so the timing mark on the crankshaft sprocket and keyway align with the main bearing cap split line (90 degrees past TDC).
   • Timing guides and tensioner
   • Camshaft sprocket bolt, using a 7⁄8 in. (21mm) wrench to hold the camshaft. Then, remove the timing chain and camshaft sprocket
   • Crankshaft sprocket

The security light is a visual indication that something in the car's antitheft system is failing. In most GM cars and trucks there is a hidden system that most people are unaware even exists. From the moment you put your key in the ignition, there begins a constant line of communication between your key's security chip or transponder, to the ignition's lock cylinder, and then to the car's TDM. (Theft Deterrent Module) These 3 parts are in CONSTANT communication. If the key is in the ignition, these parts are sending signals to each other. The SECURITY light illuminates when that signal gets broken, even just for a second. When the signal breaks, the car goes into antitheft mode. The car thinks its being stolen or hotwired because it is not getting that signal from YOUR specific key. There is where the security light turns on and shuts down your vehicle. This is a rather common problem on GM vehicles.The hard part is diagnosing which part is failing. You can spend alot of money on this system trying to fix it yourself or taking it to the dealer. Ive had great luck in just bypassing the entire system, Go to this link for info and solutions to this problem.

http://vatspasslockpasskeysecurityhelp.yolasite.com/

Clogged fuel filter will do this..

Yes. It sounds like your fuel filter is stopped up. Mine was doing that then I changed the fuel filter and it solved my problem

www.getsaturnparts.com

i would think about some grease in the ball joints and tie rod ends, and about the upper strut bearing. at 10 years any and all of them could be worn, causing drag on the steering.

this may be over charging the battries if it is electrc switched off. or it may be malfunction .

just drive it, it may take a while for the computer to run all the monitors.

BEST TO BUY BRAKE PADS AT DEALERSHIP,THEY COST MORE BUT THEY ARE THE REAL DEAL GENIUNE ORIGINAL PARTS.

Could be that the catalytic converter needs to be replaced. This can happen when the engine begins to warm up then loses power.

could be alot,the air pump could not be working,the air diaphram could be leaking internally,the check valve could be bad,the vac hoses could be leaking,,,could be alot,take it to dealer

This is a classic example of a failing security system. Random no starts are common and will only get worse. (trust me, its allways at the WRONG time) Read this link top to bottom to understand what is going on. There is a solution to your problem on this site. And trust me its cheaper than the dealer. Ive been where you are. http://vatspasslockpasskeysecurityhelp.yolasite.com/

PS. Look on your dash for a light that says SECURITY or a picture of a car with a padlock thru it, when it doesnt start. This is a dead give away that this is your problem

radiator fan starts automatically,try running the engine for 3 minutes the fan should run automatically

if the transmission has a dipstick similar to the engine dipstick you fill it through that tube......hope this helps.......cheers.