20 Most Recent 1992 Saturn SL2 - Page 5 Questions & Answers

could be faulty battery or alternator not charging

Don't waste your time and money on a used cluster unless it has definitely
been rebuilt. The best and cheapest place to get it rebuilt is in PA. If you take your cluster out and send it to them, it only costs $150 + return shipping. Phone # is (717) 665-2937. If you take your car there and they have to remove/reinstall the cluster it's $200, still cheap when compared to other places.

Not enough information.Need to know if the engine CRANKS,or turns over,just won't start up and run,or if when you turn the ignition key,nothing happens at all.If the engine cranks and turns over,just won't run,you have to check for fuel supply and spark to the spark plugs.If nothing happens at all when turning the key,could be a bad starter,battery,alternator,PRNDL switch.

check to see that the thermostat is working. if its sticking coolant wont flow well.

if its working, the water pump has likely broken its impellers. check to see if there is good coolant flow. if not. replace the pump.

No cut off switch, It has a relay. The pump is in the tank

first un plug your batterie then let the tilt all the way down thier will be 3 15torx screws in the panel that is in front of odometer then thier are for 7 mm screws that hold the instument cluster in place once you remove them pull gently out on cluster unplug plugs from cluster and the bulbs r the little grey twist and turns turn them to remove and replace as nessesary then put back together

The problem could be in the gearbox, but I'm more inclined to think it's in the rear and maybe a broken axle. There is also the possibilty that the centre has torn out of the cluch driven plate, which I suppose is the more likely. Can't imagine what the mechanic did to "rig it".

Sounds like you have a vacuum leak of some sort. Check all tubes and the intake for any hissing (while the car is on) to see if you can spot a vacuum leak. Check near the throttle body and the intake by the gasket to see if it has a leak in it. Spray some brake cleaner in some areas to see if you can see it as opposed to hear it.

A high idle like that is generally a vacuum leak and is probably effecting your transmission shifting if your able to get going in drive.

The other possibility if you find that there is no vacuum leak is to check the Idle Air Control valve (IAC) to make sure it is operating properly. It is a sensor on the throttle body. Also if the idle "resets" when you shut it off and turn it back on immediately then it is the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) which is also on the throttle body. If either have a problem you need to replace them.

More then likely your temp gauge is not working replace it or find out if its getting juice

i tried under the dash on passenger side,then in the box under the hood.it might be a rely,but i didn't further it i just changed the wiper motor which is so quick and cheap and easy .

chesk the battery terminals and wires for corrosion. if they can be cleaned do that. if they are really bad just replace them. i had the same problem with my 95 sl2 and this fixed it right up.

Make sure the spark plugs are not platinum or anything other than regular copper plugs. The S-series uses a "waste spark" system and will destroy platinum plugs. Regular copper NGKs that came from the factory with the car work the best.

How do you know it is a spark problem? Are you able to verify spark, fuel and compression?

I ask because the usual solution to what you are describing in your problem is replacing the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (ECTS). The factory one is plastic and cracks. When it cracks it sends the PCM a signal that the engine is 40F below zero. The PCM will compensate by dumping A LOT of fuel into the engine to try and warm it up. It will cause all kinds of starting and idling problems.

Autozone or the dealer sells the better brass tipped one. The ECTS is located just under and behind the upper radiator hose. You'll need to remove the air intake tubing to see it or get to it. It has two wires going to it and goes into a connector. Squeeze the connector at the "ears" and it will come off.

Now is the time to check the connector for corrosion and gunk. If there is clean it out very well. If there is no gunk or corrosion continue on.

A 10MM DEEP well socket will take it out. Swap it quickly because some coolant will come out (a couple of ounces). Hand tighten it and snug it with the socket (not too much because it will strip out). Connector back on (either direction it's non polar). Put the intake back on and enjoy better starting and idling.

i think myne had the same problem there is a hose that goes into something behind the engine block make sure its on there tight and mabey clamp it into place. hope this helps

You probably need a new ignition coilpack and possibly plug wires. The coilpacks are common to fail. I worked for saturn for a couple of years and replaced at least one a week. you SHOULD replace both of them together but if money is tight and you can figure which one is bad then just replace the bad one. The napa part # isMPE IC59SB and they run about 48.00 each. The coils are mounted on the front of the engine and the plug wires are attached to them. There are two of them and they are mounted with 2-8mm bolts. The ignition module could also be bad but is usually accompanied with a po340 cam sensor code also

my only guess is a vacuum hose leak. possibly a loose air filter housing, or the mass air flow sensor. look for any hoses unplugged. if nothing is noticed, try cleaning out your fuel system. if that doesnt solve it, then it would be something an experienced mechanic would have to come and examine it personally.

Works when cold?? then i would look first at the sensor for the auto choke ,it could be this isnt working and shutting its self off .So its running on choke all the time ,now where this is on this car i cannot help because i have never seen a saturn here in spain ,hopefully another expert can guide you here who has product knowledge But if you buy a new one then at least you know what it looks like ,and it should be in the cylinder head ?? but where ??

There isnt one, Thats a FORD ONLY trick.

On a 92 you might still have the old refrigant that you cannot mix with R134A. You will need to adapt the system the new R134A (gaskets etc....). Does the compressor come on?