Top 20 2002 Saturn Sl - Page 6 Questions & Answers

If it is a manual transmission, there's a good chance it is one of the shifter linkage cables. At about 100,000 miles, my shifter stopped working and it turned out to be a snapped cable housing.

The first thing to check is the level of your antifreeze (engine coolant) If it is low, the heater will not have any flow of the hot coolant to heat the inside of your car. If the coolant level is low, you need to find out why it is low. The coolantis in a sealed system and you should never have to add any to it. The only way it is going to be low is if there is a leak somewhere in the cooling system.

If the coolant is not low, the problem could be a bad thermostat. The thermostat controls the flow of coolant through the radiator and thus keeps the engine at operating temperature.

If the engine is at operating temperature and the coolant level is ok, then you probably have a problem with the blend-air doors or the controls for them that adjust the temperature of the air coming out of your heater and vents.

The actuator is causing the fluttering. When they are starting to go out, the locks will flutter. It seems to have more problems in the cold, because the lubrication in the actuator gets thick when it is cold.

If the car is not running hot or overheating the problem lies in the heating system. If it's overheating also more then likely a bad thermostat
It could be a number of things including the actuator isn't opening the door to allow the heat to enter the car, a pluugged heater hose, check all the fuses

This is impossible to tell without seeing the vehicle, but check to be sure your sepentine belt is still intact and turning the alternater and the water pump. I've seen these go out b4, and these symptoms seem consistent with the belt not driving it's components, overheating (the water pump not being turned) and lack of electrical poiwer( the alternater not being turned). Good luck and contact me if you are still having problems. We will try our best to help you solve this!

if those are the codes that advanced auto came up with it would be a good idea that they would be your problem

The fuel pump is in the top of the fuel tank. The part if bought at an auto parts store is a little over $300. I had mine replaced about a year ago. The fuel tank needs to be lowered or dropped for replacing the fuel pump. I had fuel leaking because of a crack in the fuel pump assembly. I did not think I had the tools or the time to safely replace this, so I took it to what used to be a Saturn dealer (they still had Saturn mechanics). They took 4 hours to replace it and charged me $1000.

OUCH! sounds like by reversing the polarity the "good Samaritan" blew out your ECM. Unless you can replace it yourself you might want to call a place that will tow it for free to fix it

you need to take the dash out.

Most likely your heater core is bad. First cheap alternative repair is flush the system. Second cheap repair is to run a garden hose both ways through the heater core. Disconnect both the hoses and blow it out back and forth, do not use a clamp or tight connection for this as you may blow a hole in the core. If no go then out comes the dashboard and in goes a new core. Stay away from GM dealers on this, try and find a shop which does nothing but heater and A/C as they are fast at pulling dashboards out.

check coolant level. if its fine was the air bled from the system? if yes then the coolant level sensor has went bad its located on the radiator

The best place to check for this object is to take your car to a garage. If they are not able to find one for you, make them to help you build a substitute for it.
This should work perfectly okay.

Check the coolant level

you should check to make sure its getting fuel there will be a pressure switch around the intake of the car it will look like a valve stem on a car tire if its gettin fuel the you should check to see if its firing

you have to link it to a OBD 1st to see where it points to.

? Who said it wasn't? The alarm installers? That I wouldn't doubt. It sounds like the starter kill switch is causing the problem and that is part of the alarm. Locate the alarm then on the alarm locate the power wire, this is most likely mounted on the firewall. The mail power wire to the alarm should have a fuse on it between the power source and the alarm itself that you can remove. Removing that fuse will deactivate the kill switch. Never trust the Alarm installers answer since they make money by not having to repair their work it is always going to be something else causing the problem according to them. Especially if they think it may end up being a warranty issue.

The are many things that can make your car heat up such as : - water pump problem - Cooling fan problem - Radiator problem - Cooling media problem. - Your driving style You need to trace which problems are persist and have them fixed.

if it is a 2.2L ecotec, the starter is on the front of the engine, more or less below and to the left of the battery. on the other hand if it is a 1.9L the starter is on the back of the engine and you are not going to get at it unless you have a lift and a good tool set. i think the S type had the 1.9L and the L type had the 2.2, i am only familiar with 99 and older S types. my 01 L had a 2.2L.

go to the dealer they have replacement keys they program to your vehicle

Do you happen to have the radio code? Sometimes people will put this with their owners manual. If not maybe you can track down the previous owner and see if they have it or would be willing to get it for you if they are the original owners.