20 Most Recent 1998 Land Rover Range Rover Questions & Answers

sorry but you have tried everything i would have done except that i would have checked the engine breather pipes for deterioation like perished or soft and collapsing .you would be surprised how often this is the main cause of this sort of problem

Test all the fuses with a test light. One fuse powers both of those circuits.

Sounds like something is overheating then and possibly a sensor. Not familiar with Rovers but might be a problem with the CAS and/or CPS which tells the ECU the motor is running and when to fire. Also maybe the IAC is bad and when you go from throttle to idle it can't control it and allows it to die.

Make sure your transfer case lever is in 'drive' mode.

There are several possibilities. You need to determine if the problem is mechanical or electrical. Can you move the door lock lever manually? If that does not work the problem is probably the mechanism and it will mean removing the door trim to get at the various linkages - there are several - see image. It does not happen often but the ends of the connecting wires can slip out of their housings. Also the plastic ring on the keylock can break. The other option is an electrical fault like a broken wire in the loom running through the door frame. You will need to find both ends of each wire and test for continuity with a multi-meter. One of mine was broken right in the middle. If that is the cause, it is easiest to run a new wire to replace the broken one - not an easy job but it can be done with patience.

Ticking and goes away? exhaust manifold leak. Most times a bolt broke. You can find it. Look for black spots around the exhaust and engine.

may need a fuel pump

THE SOLENOIDS MAKE A BUZZING NOISE WHEN THERE IS AN OBSTRUCTION.

Could be several things but the most likely is a stretched drive chain inside the transfer case - not a job for an amateur. To change just the chain inside the box is a pig of a job, but getting the case out and back is a 5-6 hour job and requires a hoist and hydraulic engine/gearbox lifter

Either the clutch or torque converter, most likely the torque converter, also check the gearbox fluid level and slave cylinder.

regards
dan

The widows work of one circuit breaker( Silver in color and about 1 inch X 1/4 inch). Rare for them to bad, but they do. Swap it with another if you have one. Or pull it and put a fuse in the slot. If they work replace the breaker. The fuse won't last long. After that is wire chasing.

The HSE designation refers to a Sport Edition 'Rover, not a higher-priced premium edition.
Changing fuel grades can harm an engine that doesn't have computer controlled valve timing.
Symptoms include a pronounced, fast "knock" (usually when you go from 93 to 87 octane) and using a fuel with a higher octane rating than the vehicle requires (example: 93 versus 87) sends unburned fuel into the emissions system and catalytic converter. This puts stress on the emissions system. For some vehicles, a rotten egg smell or a pop when the fuel burns off in the catalytic converter coming from the tailpipe signals use of higher than needed octane gas.
More info on your problems here, as well as useful links:

http://www.rangerovers.net/newrremedies.htm

HOPE THIS HELPS! Don't forget to rate!

The most likely cause is your battery being close to failure. I strongly advise that you do not change it yourself or get the local grease monkey to do so because if the ECU trips out it will need to be reset - without that you will be stranded. There are some more horrible possibilities and again do nOT experiment - let a RR expert check it out

did you hit a big bump when it stopped? you may have a fuel emergency shut-off switch that tripped or a blown fuse.

This could be serious First look & listen to the engine with the hood up to find anything loose like the fan, serpentine belt etc. Also get under the vehicle and look at the universal joints. Unfortunately, from your description, it sounds more like the auto or transfer case. With luck, it may just be the linkage but get it checked before something really serious occurs. Se my article "Noises and wht they might mean" at http://www.graemecooper.com.au/articles.htm.

Fans are notorious for work-hardening. I have lost 2 of them, both making holes in the bonnet when they exploded. Replacing the fan assembly is no big deal but do get the viscous coupling checked and/or replaced at the same time. Depending on where you are located, a good second hand unit should be available from a Land Rover shop - forget the dealers. Do NOT drive the vehicle until this is fixed - or you likely damage the engine by overheating

The P38 HEVAC system includes blend motors under the dash that mixes hot and cold air. Most likely these or the contacts have failed. Not a job you should try to do yourself so find a speclalist LR shop (not a dealer unless you take out a new bank loan first). Get them to check the heater core and hoses if they need to get that far in - it is a swine of a job and should all be done at the same time

This could be motor or transmission mounts. Check to be sure they are tight and not broken.