Top 20 1999 Saturn SC Questions & Answers

If you're comfy with manuals then i know few websites that can help you with it. Bcause I've got it from various websites so I know how each site deals. try www.reliable-store com . Very helpful

You will need to replace it with a salvage yard part if you can find one.

first you will need to pop out the dash top because there is 2 nuts by the bottom of the glass on the fire wall where the wiper motor is under the cowl then open the hood and remove the wiper arms and the cowl then you will have 2 or 3 bolts that hold the wiper transmisson in place and out comes the wiper moter

Single / double overhead camshaft SOHC DOHC

when do you hear the noise? is it a rattle over bumps? does it stop when brakes are applied? ck sway bar bushings, are they good

the door release is next to your driver seat but if it is sezed up you can go in to the trunk and pull back the trunk lining and you will find a black covered cable if you pull on it the door will open

What are you asking in some detail?I would suspect any sun roof issue was mechanical& electrical & not computer related or even part ofany module back in 1999Your answer to electrical system functions is lookingat a wiring diagram

sounds like the catalytic converter is pluggged, not allowing exhaust to escape, therefore causing the engine to be hotter on topside, and loss of power

Locate the "ground" side of the fuse connector (the side that goes to the injectors and DOES NOT go to the battery).Connect an ohm meter between the ground side of the fuse connector and the battery NEGATIVE post. The short will show a resistance of less than 5 ohms.With the meter connected as above, start unplugging all of the connectors that are involved in that circuit one at a time to isolate the short. (you will know you found it when the resistance reading goes way up). Fortunately, this is an easy one. That fuse feeds the injectors, and NOTHING else. (see partial Power Distribution diagram below) You most likely have a shorted injector. If unplugging the injectors one at a time does not find the problem child, then you need to check the wiring harness between the injectors and the fuse block to see if it is rubbed through or pinched.

I owned a 95 SC1 manual many years ago. It acted like that for me, and stalled on a regular basis. Turned out the EGR valve was bad. I replaced it and all those problems went away. I'm not sure how to test it, but two bolts and you can pull the valve and make sure it's not crudded up. Don't use solvents or you can damage the diaphragm in there, just use a toothbrush and some rags. You should also use a new gasket when you reinstall it, although as a test you can reuse the old one if it's not damaged. While you do that check for obvious intake and vacuum leaks. There may even be a vacuum line going to the EGR valve. Hope that helps.

it is most likely a wheel bearing problem.. which could lead to serious problems. if i were you i would not take it on the highway, until you get this checked by a mechanic who knows what theyre doing, and replace the wheel bearing.

sounds like a head gasket in the first stages

Your horn button may be stuck or the horn relay in the powerbox is bad. You can get diagrams at autozone.com when you register your car for free on their site.

This is extensive steps to do this which you will need the actual diagrams from the manufacture. We can give them on our site as we pay them to allow us to distrubute them so there is no copyright issues come by and get the info plus help from a Mechanichttp://www.expertcaradvice.com/askquestion.php

Click the link below :----http://wikisolutions.blogspot.in/2012/02/get-free-answers.html

Check for power at the starter solenoid with key in crank position. Use a testlight or voltmeter to see if 12 volts is there. The circuit path is from ignition switch to neutral safety switch (automatics), or clutch safety switch (manual) and then to starter relay, if used, and to the starter solenoid.If no power at solenoid in start, check your fuses in the power distribution box by battery. If car has any fusible links around battery, check them also for melted insulation or appearance of burning. If you do have power at solenoid in crank, the solenoid must be bad and needs replacing.

It sounds like the alternator has went out. They have bearings in them that eventually wear out. When this happens, they can make a screaching noise, or the bearing itself can lock up, causing the belt to slip and make a similar noise. Both of these scenarios will get louder as you accelerate. When the alternator is not charging your battery correctly, your vehicles electrical system will drain the battery.

The Service Engine soon light indicates that something is likely wrong with your emissions system. It could be any number of things but it is OK to drive to a repair shop or parts shop to get the codes read. Some of these issues can cause damage if you don't get the vehicle repaired soon but you can drive it a little bit (you won't need to get it towed).
I would recommend an Autozone or Pep Boys to get the code read as it may be something as simple as replacing the gas cap.

LIghter/PowerPoint

the relays are quite dependable now a days,check the fuse for the fuel pump in the fuse panel under the dash if the fuse is good then the relays are under the hood in a large relay box.you can interchange the relay with another relay that is the same as long as the relay is not used to run anything to allow the car to start.this will eliminate the relay.if the fuse is good you can just go from there to have someone bang on the fuel tank near were the fuel pump would be(middle of the gas tank),while someone tries to start the car,if it starts then it is the fuel pump that needs replacing and you won`t have to bother with the relay in the second step mentioned above.also the fuel filter could be plugged but you should hear the fuel pump working first.also just because you hear the fuel pump working it doesn`t mean that it is pumping at the correct fuel pressure