20 Most Recent 1999 Saturn SC - Page 2 Questions & Answers

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This is extensive steps to do this which you will need the actual diagrams from the manufacture. We can give them on our site as we pay them to allow us to distrubute them so there is no copyright issues come by and get the info plus help from a Mechanichttp://www.expertcaradvice.com/askquestion.php

Check for power at the starter solenoid with key in crank position. Use a testlight or voltmeter to see if 12 volts is there. The circuit path is from ignition switch to neutral safety switch (automatics), or clutch safety switch (manual) and then to starter relay, if used, and to the starter solenoid.If no power at solenoid in start, check your fuses in the power distribution box by battery. If car has any fusible links around battery, check them also for melted insulation or appearance of burning. If you do have power at solenoid in crank, the solenoid must be bad and needs replacing.

It sounds like the alternator has went out. They have bearings in them that eventually wear out. When this happens, they can make a screaching noise, or the bearing itself can lock up, causing the belt to slip and make a similar noise. Both of these scenarios will get louder as you accelerate. When the alternator is not charging your battery correctly, your vehicles electrical system will drain the battery.

The Service Engine soon light indicates that something is likely wrong with your emissions system. It could be any number of things but it is OK to drive to a repair shop or parts shop to get the codes read. Some of these issues can cause damage if you don't get the vehicle repaired soon but you can drive it a little bit (you won't need to get it towed).
I would recommend an Autozone or Pep Boys to get the code read as it may be something as simple as replacing the gas cap.

LIghter/PowerPoint

the relays are quite dependable now a days,check the fuse for the fuel pump in the fuse panel under the dash if the fuse is good then the relays are under the hood in a large relay box.you can interchange the relay with another relay that is the same as long as the relay is not used to run anything to allow the car to start.this will eliminate the relay.if the fuse is good you can just go from there to have someone bang on the fuel tank near were the fuel pump would be(middle of the gas tank),while someone tries to start the car,if it starts then it is the fuel pump that needs replacing and you won`t have to bother with the relay in the second step mentioned above.also the fuel filter could be plugged but you should hear the fuel pump working first.also just because you hear the fuel pump working it doesn`t mean that it is pumping at the correct fuel pressure

it is in the fuse panel located next to the passengers left knee, behind the cover on the center console. the cover has a diagram for the various fuses.

ck compression on cylinder could have burned valve if no could be injector or coil

wiring schematics can't be copied and uploaded to fixya.com in my experience, unfortunately.

The memory required apparently is not available and there are copyright issues.

I think that your best bet is to buy a paper manual like Haynes or Chilton or the Manufacturer's manual to get detailed schematics for your Saturn SC.

First, I wouldn't let that guy work on your car. P1133 is "O2 Sensor Slow Response - Sensor 1" Anybody that has been in the auto repair business for more than a week should know that Sensor 1 is ALLWAYS the FRONT sensor.

Note: O2 sensor codes do not necessarily mean that an O2 sensor needs to be replaced. Most O2 Sensor codes are caused by something other than the O2 Sensor itself. (there are several different possible O2 Sensor codes for your car. P0131, P0132, P0133, P0134, P0138, P0171, P0172, P1133, P1134)

The most likely cause of DTC (Diagnostic TroubleCode) P1133 is contamination of the O2 Sensor. Replacing a contaminated O2 Sensor without repairing the source of the contamination will only result in a repeat repair. It could be caused by bad fuel, improper use of RTV sealant, engine oil or engine coolant. I have seen this caused many times by engine oil leaks that run down the exhaust and clog the holes in the side of the sensor shield. (The sensor must "breathe" to work properly)

Then on the other hand, if your vehicle has a lot of miles on it, the sensor could be just chemically worn out. In any case, the FRONT sensor is the one that is setting the code.

A common problem with the 90's engines was the ECTS (electronic coolant temperature sensor) going bad. Seems when attempting to start the car, the computer in the car will only allow enough gas it thinks is needed to start. When a car is cold, the computer gives more gas initially, until the engine warms up, then gives less gas. When starting a warm engine, less gas is needed.

If the sensor goes bad, it always tells the computer that the engine is hot. The computer give less gas to a cold engine, and sometimes it will start, sometimes not. Its a pretty cheap part, and a do it yourself one, just research it a bit on line...good luck

Sounds like a clutch slipping.

if the egr valve is stuck open or closed it would cause the car to run rough or stall out but you would probly notice a change in the fuel millage as well if your friend has a scanner to check the computer then he or she can also replace the egr valve/sencer i would also check the spark plugs and wires as well as replace the fuel filter and air filter if you buy a service manual for the vechile it will help you do the repairs needed and for way cheaper then the shop will charge you.

it may be the lights switch, but first check for a fuse in the engine compartment fuse box marked "Park". It is not the safety interlock, as that only affects the start circuit. If you have more questions, please let me know.

the system uses a product called "DEX-COOL" Preston brand makes this as well as others.

if the coolant looked red/pink/orange than it was dexcool and the new radiator should be filled with dexcool only. Most of the time you will need to mix it 50/50 with water. Sometimes it will come premixed and it will be labeled as premix.

If the old coolant was green than regular green coolant is what you need. Again you can sometimes find it premixed but if not it will need to be mixed 50/50 with water. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa