1990 Saab 900 Hatchback - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

It needs to screw in. If you can't find the right plate to match the hole pattern, use a set of pliers in the holes - push and twist until level with caliper body.

Europarts .com columbus ohio very helpful with my 2000 turbo 93 radio pixels out bad easy fix after pullin unit out strips going tobboard dobthis quickly but not so long yu meltvthem back to board lightly with soldering iron press gently till they reseat to motherboard hot butter knife works to so yu can press flatter and control your heat so yu dont melt strips or make contact with anything else so no short outs all fixed pixels back!

for owners manuals online: www.edmonds.com

On 88-93 models the brake goes to the rear calipers. First you should release the brake and look at the little arms the cable attaches on each caliper. If the cable is moving but the arms are not, you need to replace the caliper(s). More likely you will see the cable is not moving, in which case the cable(s) need to be replaced. Swapping in parts, or trying to free up and lubricate existing parts will depend upon your skill set, time, and budget.

Because the car has adaptive technology, it may take a while to reset and adjust to the new, cleaner and better conditions than those to which it had previously adapted.

Did you change the cap and rotor? if the plugs needed replacement, likely they do too

Possible other causes include:

loose or corroded connections to any electrical component you disturbed (make a checklist and tick them all off as you check them);

mis-reinstallation of any F.I. part disturbed(checklist again)

obstructed water flow through the AIC valve;

improper voltage output from the AIC valve (for LH 2.4 systems, should output 8 volt at idle, dropping as load increases; for LH 2.4.2 system output 7 volt at idle etc; testing between terminals)33 and 17 at disconnected LH connector;

possible problem with MAF.

Hope this helps

Saabreur

Sorry, gentlemen; NO 'C' clamps should be used on the rear callipers of 1988 to 1993 and 1994 convertible SAABs! Unless you want to replace the callipers, that is...

There is a calliper adjusting screw, at the rear of the calliper, hidden behind the parking cable. Unhook and remove the parking cable from the back of the calliper. You'll see a hex head located on the back of the calliper, between the hook to attach the end of the parking cable, and the hole through the bracket where the cable passes to the front of the car. The hex head is most easily seen if you hoist the car; it's not the most obvious until you've found at it a couple of times, then you can do it by touch with the car on a jack stand and without getting underneath!

Remove the hex head bolt, about a 12 mm or so wrench/socket, and you can then get at the calliper adjusting screw to tighten or release it as appropriate; the adjusting screw has an internal hex head socket, use a 4 mm Allen key. Likely the adjusting screw will be a bit stiff; spray into the hole with penetrating spray and let stand a few minutes before trying the Allen key.

Good luck!

its a 1996 saab. the red handle only releases the back motor which controls the front of the top. the trick seems to be to get the back window released.

top picture is non-turbo bottom picture is a turbo model.

could be your axigen sensor or your tps trottle position sensor
i also recomend to unplug the maf sensor if it does have one, some cars will idle with maf senseor unplug others not but if by unpluging the maf system dispear the replace maf sensor
(mass air flow)

The entire dash has to come out. But 2 of the fasteners are inside the motor compartment near the windshield corners. I believe they have 10mm nuts on stud.

any radio that is the same size will fit you can buy adapters at most radio shops best buy future shop adaptor uses vehicle wiring and connects to radio find a radio you like then ask for the adaptor to fit

hope this will help you hope you find a radio you like plz vote or comment reply if you need more help

This is a classic problem on the 900, and is 80% of the time (or more) an internal transmission problem. However, occasionally the shift linkage needs to be adjusted and this will solve it. Have your mechanic (or yourself) first adjust the throw on the shift linkage, and if that doesn't solve it then you know it is internal. You can repair this, in most cases, without removing the engine/transmission. Good luck!

check this website out: http://www.aa1car.com/library/fuel_gauge_diagnosis.htm

The fuel pump draws far too much current to be allowed to go through the ignition switch. It would melt.
So there is always a relay.
And the ignition just turns the relay on and off.
The relay should be in the fuse box I would assume, but I don't remember exactly on a Saab.
As a temporary test, you can plug jumpers into the relay socket and run to a toggle switch.
But of course this is not a good permanent solution because you can forget and ruin the battery, or it could stay on in an accident.

If you are worried about battery drain then I would disconnect the battery while you are at work so no one can steal your car and this will prevent it from going dead until you get the issue fixed.

I would also make sure the vehicle is all the way in park, smark it into park a few times really good. Some vehicles require that they be in park for the key to be released from the ignition and your vehicle is older and the shifter may be a little worn and it might not be releasing the key properly.

It doesn't sound as if your ignition switch if locked up since it will rotate to all settings. You can also try moving the steering wheel from left to right while you try to pull the key out in the locked position. Ultimately you will need to repair either the lock r shifter mechanism.

so P, N, and R work just not drive right?

Wiper motor rarely goes bad, and a second one going bad as well is extremely rare. What will burn out a motor is very high resistance to movement from the wiper assembly. Do the following: Take out the wiper motor, and move the wipers by hand to see if they are hard to move, or if the arms (rod mechanism) are rubbing against anything. Do this with the blades in normal position, resting against the windshield. Pour water unto windshield while testing it, to avoid scratches. One telltale sign for this condition, is the wipers going too slow before complete stoppage. Either that, or an electrical connection leading to the wiper motor, for that simply check that there is electricity in the wiper motor connector when wipers are activated.

You are going to need a blower motor resister and a turn signal flasher,shound't be too expensive,and you should be able to do it yourself.

I believe that in 1990 the 2.0L was replaced by the 2.3L. The 2.3L was offered in two versions. Standard and turbo. However since there may well have been 2.0L available in 1990 I included both capacities.

• 2.0L: 4.0 litres.

• 2.3L: 4.7 litres

• Grades:Grade: Saab Turbo Engine Oil or an oil which meets the requirements of API SG and CCMC G4 or G5.
• Viscosity: 10W/30, 10W/40, 5W/30 or 5W/40

If your Saab is the Turbo model please remember to take the extra steps necessary to protect the turbo unit.

#1
Before you add any new oil, fill the new filter up first.
#2
After you have secured the oil filter and refilled the rest of the oil remove the coil wire to prevent the engine from starting.

After that turn the engine over for a count of 10 to 15 seconds. Now reconnect the coil wire and start the car.

This extra step is Critical and Necessary to prime the oil system. If the engine is started with an unprimed oil system and an empty oil filter the turbo will not receive oil for 10 to 15 seconds after start up. Some scientist have speculated that this was in fact an unlikely cause of the last great extinction event that occurred somewhere else. ":->

Hope this helps and good luck.

needs cleaning buy canned air and try to blow all dust out