2000 Kia Sephia - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

There are three common reasons for oil on the plugs. A blown head gasket, worn valve stem oil seals and worn piston rings. The most likely reason will probably be the head gasket. Check the coolant overflow tank for oil floating on top of the coolant. This is a sign of a blown head gasket. For Valve stem oil seals check the following... On a Cold start you get a large thick cloud of blue coloured exhaust smoke. You also get the same smoke when going from idle to higher engine revs. Such as pulling away from a red traffic light after sitting waiting for traffic. Does the vehicle use a lot of oil? Does it have excessively smoky exhaust gas, usually more of a grey/white colour, when driving? Has it lost power? Look in the engine air filter box. Is there oil? Worn piston rings sometimes cause 'blow back' where an oil/air vapour is forced back through the air intake into the air filter box.

quote: "Since you have isolated which system is guilty you can further isolate the components. Try disconnecting the wires to the tail light assemblies (one at a time) with the fuse in place and see if the draw disappears. Do this with the brake light switch, headlight switch, and even the relays and you may be able to narrow it down to a single component or a certain strectch of wiring..." https://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20070213164332AAfd7N5

kia sephia If you're finding it difficult to service/repair your car, get one of those online manuals. You'll not have to wait for others to answer, or rely on mechanics and all. Plus i know a website that sells very cheap but very very good manuals online, without expiry

No fire at the plugs means no power to the coil/coils or the coil/coils are bad. You say it won't start, I'll take that it does crank over and won't fire. You have to have power from the switch to the coil, coil to distributor, and cranking sends fire to plugs. With a test light, check that there IS power from the switch and ongoing. This is a must do.

could be anywhere from coolant temp sensor, throttle pos sensor, idle speed solenoid.

If you are intermittently losing crank signal that can several issues . May be bad wiring or connection issues.

By hook or by crook the door panel must be removed in order to access the internal mechanism even if it must be badly damaged and need replacing. It is usual to remove the seat to improve access.

If the bolts were not tightened evenly in an X pattern, you could have a hairline crack in the flange. JB weld works good in applications like this if applied neatly.

On the slave cylinder on the Transmission

Possible bad tire. Or bad cv joints.

Open door from outside remove interior door panel replace interior door handle these break all the time cheap plastic.

Clean egr valve, check map sensor, check replace engine temp sensor.

Engine rings or valves no longer hold enough compression due to excessive engine wear.

Replace door light switch.

Relive pressure by opening nut that is used to bleed the brakes, then us a screw driver or C-Clamp to pry the brake pads apart.

Tire is not balanced properly, car needs a wheel alignment and suspension system check up.

Yes it's in the factory service manual available at the local dealer or online.

Check all your ground connections in front and back and at the lights clean or replace connectors and tighten ground bolts.

Loosen the vertical bolt on the tension bracket by turning left, then slide belt off pulleys when you have enough slack, use a tension guage to reinstall and tighten to proper tension.

Could be air trapped in the heater core, flush your cooling system and burp it of all the air in the system by running it at idle until it's hot you will see bubbles come up to the radiator cap, install cap, then drive car, next day refill coolant. OR it could be a bad heater core in which case it's an expensive repair that costs more than the car is worth.