20 Most Recent 2004 Jaguar X-Type - Page 4 Questions & Answers

that i am 99% sure this will be the latch faulty on that door. the switch that is faulty is part of the latch mechanism. it may be a wiring problem but unlikely, new latch is the answer.hope this helps.

Advance auto or auto zone have the tool to remove the hub but you will have to go to a repair shop to have the bearing pressed on.

Not enough info?? Are you asking how to replace flywheel or what flywheel you need? Dual mass to single mass conversion??

I doubt it but advise you to refer to your vehicle handbook for a definitive answer and the correct operating procedure. If in doubt consult the local dealer as it is possible there is a fault.

Have you checked your fuel pressure and/or has the fuel filter been replaced? I have a lot of problems cleared up with a new fuel filter.

The fuel relay is typically a non serviceable component (R7) located in the rear passenger junction box. see illustration

The oil pressure Sensor and Oil Temperature sensor are just above and to the left of the oil filter under the exhaust manifold. Look next to the generator the one closer should be the Pressure sensor. see attached illustration hope this helps

Check fuel filters.

I'd tell them to fix the problems unless you want to invest additional money to sort out an unknown problem. Google year make model and codes you should be able to find what the codes mean and some idea of what needs attention. Wild guess, it's emission problems. It may include a bad Catalytic converter. That will cost dearly.

on the jags there is a sensor on the outside by the front bumper cover on the bottom right it sends the signel to the a/c control head panel on the inside of the car you will need to go to a Jag Dealership to buy the sensor..

You figure about 350 t0 450 for the clutch set, labor around 1200 to1500.

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f17 is the "fuel pump driver module and relay" rated at 20 amps and is located under the dash just to the left of the steering column in the fuse box. it's in the second row up from the bottom and is the fifth fuse in from the right. __________________

Before anything make sure you H1 bulb is seated correctly on mount (that the dimple on the bulb metal plate is in he hole of the mounting plate. When you remove the spring clamps for the bulb, turn the bulb slightly in both directions until you see it/feel it slide in and re-attach the spring clamps. Check if this resolved you adjustment. If it is still off, you will see a hole on top of the core support above the head lamp where inside you will see an allen head type plastic head with an optional Philips screw insert. That is one of your adjustment screws for vertical. There is one on each side. Behind the head lamp unit (between the low beam and high beam) you will also see a white plastic gear button. This is another adjustment screw for horizontal.

What is happening here is that the faster the heater blows air through the fan, the more it cools the liquid in the heater core, and so heat output is reduced. The root of the problem is either the engine is not warming up enough, or the heater core, and/or heater core lines, are plugged up, not allowing the water to circulate properly in the heater core. Here is what I would try. 1. Top off the radiator and overflow. 2. Is the engine warming up properly? Is your temperature gauge showing normal temperatures? If it is not, then replace the thermostat. 3. If steps 1 and 2 do not solve the problem, get the vehicle in a shop, locate the heater core lines, take them apart and flush out the heater core. Look for blockages in the fittings. Do a flow test on the core. It may be clogged and need to be replaced.

The oil filter is at the front of the engine under the plastic belly cover, it is of the paper type hope this halps you out.

It might be but first I would check the earths. Main earth at battery box, engine earth at gearbox, earth for the body processor think that's on the tunnel behind ashtray.