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1991 Geo Storm - Page 8 Questions & Answers
I have a 93 geo storm 1.6 just got it filled the tank and drove it for about 3 hours turns burned all the gas.. it starts when its cold then runs for a bit then shuts off..
in neutral or in gear, driving or not, only as you come to stops?and can you save the stall with fast right foot action?big clues there....an oldy but a goody?car stalls, there are 50 ways to stall a motor.here is a list, (we never use lists. we use tools) but....1: never tuned up the engine>, do the full 60kmile service, no?2: EGR stuck open, see #1 3: ISC stuck closed (or IAC)4: injector clogged or leaking.5: TPS idle switch stuck open, (dead idle controls)6: bad gas.7: bad engine (low compression, or cam timing , way off)8: bad spark timing ,see #19: clogged cat converter. (melted inside blocking exh)and many more.most 93s i ,see have many of those. like stacking up bricks on a camels back......
Crankshaft timing pulley bolt will not move
hi, an old trick i learnt many years ago, put a single hex socket on the bolt, attach a sliding 'T' handle to the socket, pref, 3/4 drive, then make sure the end of the handle is sitting against the chassis member, or the concrete floor, then momentarily hit the start switch. this should free the bolt. if the handle is too short, fit a jack handle or something on the end to make it longer.
Vacum lines 90 geo storm
Most GM cars have a vacum routing diagram on the under side of the hood if not the library may have a repaire manuel you could look at and get copys
I have a 1990 Geo
run a compression test,it may be an interference engine when the belt breaks it also bends engine valves
How to replace right front
What you'll need:
- Large adjustable wrench and Channelocks.
- Bearing race driver tool or various size punches.
- Socket and ratchet set or assorted wrenches.
- BFH.
- Lots of rags.
- New wheel bearings.
- Wheel bearing grease.
- New cotter pin.
- New grease seals.
- Wheel blocks.
- Safety glasses.
- A jack and a pair of jack stands.
- Rubber gloves (Optional)
- First remove the bearing cap. This is a press fit and to remove
it grab it with your Channelocks and work it back and forth until it
pops off. Be careful not to crush it as you remove it.
- Once the
cap is off you will see a cotter pin, Remove the cotter pin and remove
the retainer ring. If your vehicle has a castellated nut, you will not
have a retaining ring.
- Using your Channelocks or adjustable wrench, remove the nut from the spindle.
- Now remove the outer wheel bearing and washer and lay it aside.
-
Slide the rotor or drum off the spindle. This may be difficult, but it
will come off. Don't worry about hurting the grease seal; we're going to
replace it anyway.
- Now that the rotor or drum is off, use a suitable tool to remove the grease seal and take out the inner wheel bearing.
- Using some of the rags wipe all the old grease from inside the hub.
-
Now we need to remove the bearing races from the hub. Take a punch with
a flat narrow tip and place it on the back of the race. Most hubs have
gaps in them to expose the back of the race to make removal easier. Tap
the race out, alternating from side to side so it comes out evenly and
doesn't get cocked in the hub. Once it's out, flip the rotor or drum
over and do the same for the other race.
When both races are out, clean the inside of the hub with some rags.
Also make sure the spindle is clean as well. You can even use some
carburetor cleaner to do a really good job of cleaning. From this point
on cleanliness is important. You do not want any dirt, sand or metal
chips inside the hub.
- Take one of the new races and coat the outside with some wheel
bearing grease. This will help it slide into the hub. If you have a race
driver, select the proper size and tap the new race into the hub. Make
sure you drive it in evenly and do not **** it. If you don't have a race
driver, use your hammer to tap the outside of the race to get it
started making sure you tap evenly around the race. When it is flush
with the hub, use your flat narrow punch and drive it in the rest of the
way. Make sure it is fully seated. The sound of the tapping will change
when it's seated and you can look from the other side to visually
confirm this.
- Do the same for the other race.
- If you
don't have a bearing packer, you will need to pack them by hand. Put a
glob of wheel bearing grease in the palm of your hand. Slip the wheel
bearing on your index finger like a ring with the wide end facing out.
Then tap the bearing into the glob of grease until you see it coming out
the other side. When you see it come out turn the whole bearing, don't
just rotate it on your finger, and repeat the procedure until the whole
bearing has grease coming out the other side. Repeat this for the other
bearings.
Now that everything is nice and clean, let's put the new races and bearings in.
- Take
one of the new races and coat the outside with some wheel bearing
grease. This will help it slide into the hub. If you have a race driver,
select the proper size and tap the new race into the hub. Make sure you
drive it in evenly and do not **** it. If you don't have a race driver,
use your hammer to tap the outside of the race to get it started making
sure you tap evenly around the race. When it is flush with the hub, use
your flat narrow punch and drive it in the rest of the way. Make sure
it is fully seated. The sound of the tapping will change when it's
seated and you can look from the other side to visually confirm this.
- Do the same for the other race.
-
If you don't have a bearing packer, you will need to pack them by hand.
Put a glob of wheel bearing grease in the palm of your hand. Slip the
wheel bearing on your index finger like a ring with the wide end facing
out. Then tap the bearing into the glob of grease until you see it
coming out the other side. When you see it come out turn the whole
bearing, don't just rotate it on your finger, and repeat the procedure
until the whole bearing has grease coming out the other side. Repeat
this for the other bearings.
- Now that we have the races installed and bearings packed, we can
put everything back together. Starting with the inner bearing put a bed
of grease on the surface of the race and then push the inner wheel
bearing into it. Take the new grease seal and tap it into place, don't
bend or distort it. You can use a small block of wood to help.
-
Put a coating of grease inside the hub between the two races and on the
spindle -- too much is better than too little. If any moisture should
happen to get inside, the grease will keep the metal from rusting.
-
Slide the brake rotor or drum straight onto the spindle. It should
slide on easily. If it doesn't, the bearing is cocked a little. Slide it
off and make sure the bearing is sitting flat and try again.
-
Once it's on, grease the outer race and slide the outer wheel bearing
on. Slide the washer on. The washer will probably have a tab that will
align with the spindle, make sure that you line them up when you put it
in.
- Place the nut on the spindle and tighten it by hand until
it won't go anymore. Spin the rotor or drum a few times back and forth
and then tighten the nut more by hand. This insures that the bearings
are seated. Do it a couple of times until you can't get it any tighter
by hand.
- Now tighten the nut ΒΌ turn, no more than 16
foot-pounds. If you have a castellated nut, line it up with the hole
going through the spindle. Install a NEW cotter pin. If you have a
retaining ring, place it on the nut and install the pin. Never reuse the
old cotter pin and make sure you use it.
- Put a small blob of
grease on the inside of the dust cap and tap it into place, being
careful not to crush it. Make sure it is fully seated.That's it, you're ready to roll nice and smooth!
Vauxhaul corsa Y plate 1.2SXi
have no idea what year a Y plate is at first i thought it was a secret code of some sort so without year i would hazard a guess and say mass air flow sensor its in the inlet manifold intake pipe
I need Timing Belt R&R
Hi, the procedure below is from autozone.com. The most critical step in installing the timing belt is to ensure the belt is tight on the left side with the timing marks aligned before releasing the tensioner onto the belt. Please let me know if you have any questions, and thanks for using FixYa.
Storm
SOHC ENGINE
- Disconnect the battery negative cable.
- Remove the alternator belt, then the power steering belt.
- Support the engine using J-28467-A or an equivalent engine support fixture.
- Remove the right engine mount.
- Remove the timing belt cover retaining bolts, then the timing belt cover from the vehicle. It may be necessary to support the vehicle and remove the right under cover in order to access the lower timing cover bolts.
See Figures 1, 2 and 3
- Disconnect the battery negative cable.
- Remove the timing belt cover. If necessary, raise and support the vehicle, then remove the right under cover to access the lower timing cover bolts.
- If not done already, rotate the crankshaft so that the No. 4 cylinder is at TDC on its compression stroke by aligning the camshaft pulley timing mark to the 9 o'clock position.
- Raise and support the vehicle safely.
- Remove the crankshaft pulley center bolt, the 4 crankshaft pulley side bolts and the crankshaft pulley from the vehicle.
- Loosen the belt tension pulley bolt, then remove the timing belt from around the tensioner and other pulleys. Remove the timing belt from the vehicle.
To install:
- Make sure the crankshaft pulley keyway and groove is aligned with the oil pump timing mark and the camshaft pulley timing mark is in the 9 o'clock position. Install the timing belt around the crankshaft timing pulley, followed by the tensioner pulley, water pump pulley and the camshaft timing pulley.
- Tighten the belt tensioner retaining bolt. Make sure that the belt is properly tightened and is aligned evenly around all the pulleys:
- Turn the crankshaft 2 complete revolutions and realign the crankshaft timing gear groove with the mark on the oil pump.
- Loosen the tension pulley bolt and apply tension to the belt using an Allen wrench in the hexagonal pulley hole. Torque the pulley bolt to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm) while holding the pulley stationary.
- Check the timing belt tension/deflection using a belt tension gauge. The belt should deflect 0.63-0.79 in. (16-20mm) when 22 lbs. (98 N) of pressure is applied to the center of the longest belt stretch.
- Check that the camshaft is still aligned to the 9 o'clock position.
- Install the timing belt cover, secure it with the 2 lower mounting bolts, then torque the bolts to 89 in. lbs. (10 Nm).
- Install the crankshaft pulley to the crankshaft dampener, secure the center bolt and the 4 side bolts. Torque the center bolt to 87 ft. lbs. (118 Nm) and the 4 side bolts to 17 ft. lbs. (23 Nm).
- If removed, install the right side under cover.
- Lower the vehicle. Install the 4 upper timing belt cover retaining bolts and tighten to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
- Install the right engine mount.
- Install the power steering pump drive belt and alternator drive belt. Adjust them to the proper belt tension.
- Remove engine support fixture and reconnect the negative battery cable.
Fig. Fig. 1: Timing belt routing - SOHC engines
Fig. Fig. 2: Align the crankshaft timing gear keyway with the mark in the oil pump - SOHC engines
Fig. Fig. 3: Check the timing belt tension at the center of the longest point between pulleys - SOHC engines
Need R&R information to replace
Hi!!
Here is the Info you requested:
WATER PUMP REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
Except Twincam Engines
See Figures 1 and 2
- Disconnect the negative battery cable and drain the cooling system.
- Loosen the power steering pump adjustment bolts and remove the drive belt.
- Remove the timing belt; refer to the procedure later in this section.
- Remove the tension pulley and spring.
- Remove the water pump mounting bolts, water pump and gasket. Clean the mounting surfaces of all remaining gasket material.
- To install, reverse the removal procedures. Tighten the water pump bolts to 17 ft. lbs. (23 Nm) and the tension pulley to 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm).
- Connect the negative battery cable and fill the cooling system, then start the engine and check for leaks.
FIG 1
FIG 2
Twincam Engines
See Figure 3
1.6L DOHC ENGINE
- Disconnect the negative battery cable and drain the cooling system.
- Support the engine using a suitable floor jack and remove the right front engine mount.
- Remove the engine mount bridge and the upper timing belt cover.
- Remove the power steering belt and the lower timing belt cover.
- Loosen the timing belt tension pulley and remove the timing belt.
- Remove the power steering pump and bracket.
- Remove the water pump attaching bolts, then the water pump from the vehicle. Thoroughly clean all remaining gasket material from the mating surfaces.
- Reverse procedure to install and tighten the water pump bolts to 17 ft. lbs. (24 Nm). Connect the negative battery cable and refill the cooling system. Start the engine and check for leaks.
FIG 3
1.8L ENGINE
- Disconnect the negative battery cable and drain the engine cooling system.
- Remove the timing belt covers; refer to the procedure later in this section. Loosen the timing belt tensioner pulley bolt, then remove the belt from the water pump pulley.
- Remove the 2 bolts from the power steering pump bracket, then position the pump aside with the lines still attached. Be careful not to kink or damage the steering fluid lines.
- Remove the water pump mounting bolts, then remove the pump from the engine. Thoroughly clean the gasket mating surfaces of all remaining gasket material.
To install:
- Install the water pump using a new gasket, then tighten the retaining bolts to 18 ft. lbs. (24 Nm).
- Position the power steering pump assembly, then install the retaining bolts and tighten to 25 ft. lbs. (34 Nm).
- Install the timing belt to the pump pulley, then tighten the tensioner pulley bolt to 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm).
- Install the timing belt covers.
- Connect the negative battery cable and fill the cooling system, then start the engine and check for leaks
Good Luck!! A HELPFUL - 4 THUMBS - rating for this solution would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for using FixYa.
The rear right brake scrubs
sounds like a siezed caliper,,maybe dismantle it clean and lubricate,then test it out for a week, if it still scrubs ,it will be a siezed caliper or contaminted fluid,you would be best changing the fluid at a dealer as it is quite inexspensive for a fluid change.
hope that helps
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