1995 Geo Prizm - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Ignition timing or valve timing? https://www.google.com/search?q=1995+Geo+Prizm.+How+do+you+set+the+timing ..

Check the fuses. You might have blown one of them while charging the battery.

Sounds like there is a cylinder that is miss firing. Could be a plug or plug wire.

Are you sure you got the dustributor in the right tooth? Check timing using procedure at link below. Or, maybe you got a bad rebuilt. Here are some tests to check it out: 1993 See Figures 6 and 7

1. Check for spark at each spark plug with a spark tester. Check at least 2 plug wires.
2. If spark is only detected at some plugs, check for a faulty distributor cap or rotor. Also check the spark plugs and plug wires. Replace, if necessary.
3. Measure the resistance of the distributor connector C1 when cold, between terminals 3 and 6, using a digital voltmeter. If the camshaft position (CMP) sensor resistance is not between 185-275 ohms, replace the distributor housing.
4. Measure the resistance of the distributor connector C1 when cold, between terminals 2 and 5, using a digital voltmeter. If the camshaft position (CMP) sensor resistance is not between 370-550 ohms, replace the distributor housing.
5. Measure the resistance of the distributor connector C1 when hot, between terminals 3 and 6, using a digital voltmeter. If the camshaft position (CMP) sensor resistance is not between 240-325 ohms, replace the distributor housing.
6. Measure the resistance of the distributor connector C1 when hot, between terminals 2 and 5, using a digital voltmeter. If the camshaft position (CMP) sensor resistance is not between 475-650 ohms, replace the distributor housing.
7. Measure the air gap between the signal rotor and the camshaft position (CMP) sensor. If the air gap is not 0.008-0.016 inch (0.2-0.4 mm), replace the distributor housing.

Fig 6 Fig 7 Repair Guides Ignition Timing Checking And Adjustment AutoZone com

Better check out the motor. It may be damaged from the overheating to the extent that only popping the clutch will generate the torque to turn over and start the engine since the starter cannot overcome the new engine resistance. And if that is the case any other remedy(ies) are not practical. Only if you can start it with your starter should you consider checking out the radiator, water pump, hoses, and every other part responsible for cooling the engine.

Check for spark at the plugs and compression at each cylinder. If you have fuel at each injector it should start unless your timing jumped.

wow ,no posted smog report, (the failed gases) now that makes this 10s harder, and for sure more expensive..... many post,. why not just add to one post click comments and add. or edit one. post. all engines that fail smog run fine. (so says all owners) (fine means zero,) in the real world. what's worse is owning a 1995 in USA, and must get sniff tested. (cant fool that method) no report by you, (paper) ignore all statements by all smog testers, only one statement (it fails!) all others are lies, guessing and BS. after all if they were fully trained and skilled they'd have a real job. a fact. (or they get huge retirements from the state?) The car needs to be check by a pro. it needs to be scanned, with a custom scan tool that is not sold in any auto store until 1996 happened. but if that NOT IN THE CARDS./ no money for a real ASE tech? then yes, do a tuneup.. 1: spark plugs. and new wires, cap and rotor. 2: filters. and fresh engine oil, (the oil can be full of gasoline is why) 3: the cat may be ok, is spending a fortune on that good? on a wild guess,? like your smog guy quipped? that be your call. no? (shot gun method or testing) your call. in a shop they would get the engine running perfectly. in closed loop hot and light cruise. A NEW front 02 sensor for sure. then they test the cat last, the CAT is always last. i think this car has 3 way cat too, so is really 3 cats in one. all 3 must work. or you fail... (for sure) what if only NOX gas failed.???? if yes, we fix EGR first. then CAT last. (they work as a team) what gases failed matters and was not stated by you. in a real shop they can sniff front of cat and rear and tell you , bad engine, or bad cat. in minutes. or both, sure. bad engine means 1:engine is bad. 2: EFI controls failing, (fuel or spark) 3: misfires. (even some humans cant hear, omg) 4: and many more. but no smog sheet posted, no savvy. a pro shop knows the pre cat gas levels that are normal. if they are, then the cat is bad. end story.

wow no engine stated, 1.6L or the 1.8L , they are not the same. working with no shop manual, why>? its toy corolla in snake (gm) skins they made 40million corolla, a record, means ,no lack of info on it ever. the spark plugs in screw, like all do, right tighty lefty loosy. do not exceed 15ft/lbs, tightening torque , on alum heads. spark plugs have many sizes, if you pretend to buy one from NGK go to NGK dot com, look, yours up, see that p/n then click that number (its data sheet on this shows spark hex sizes. in clear text... 13/16" or 5/8's or what ever. a real shop has all sizes, so, its gander pick. the cat is just bolts and nuts. what is there to ask here.???? sure rust. many will be real hard to remove with rust there is no limits on rust and its effects. ever. what will be, will be. in a real shop they have tools to handle all states here. 1-cut off the bolt and replace them., 2-or use lots of Penetrating oil and muscle. way 3 is , use a torch and heat them real hot, the metal explands. the rust bond breaks and bam its loose. (turned) why not read a book first???? or youtube all day and pretend, like "autorepairs for dummies". amazon has it. buy it and read all those warnings first. ill not do the NGK trick for you. i pick 1.6L the oem plugs the click tab , part info bingo 5/8": hex. is the spark plug deep socket size. is that hard> >? works on all cars. http://www.partcat.com/ngk it must be gaped to YOUR ENGINES, spec. unstated engine.

old post.This is really a suzuki G16 engine questionthats ok, The G16s are used on Suzuki's and TrackersVitara's , Esteems, no others world wide.I have all the photos and books on those cars.real books and all parts lists. on them , graphics tool.the freeze plugs (core plugs on all over.)IN 1996 only one engine, G16b. But all G16 blocks these are the same. sides on all G16 base blocks. 2 left side 1 above filter, one just to rear of that, they are huge.have to be blind to miss left side, (left means same as left car door)the problem here is there are 2 engines in 1995, then one in 1996the heads on both engine are NOT THE SAME>the head is 8v and 16valves headsand the 16v has freeze plugs in the top ,next to the cam. inside under valve cover !!!.why not say where the leak is so we can narrow the search. or state the JOB?????????i have photos of all parts in any G16.there are no freeze plug in any 8valve head.but the 16v yes !!! the 16v head small inside plugs, if leaking turn the engine oil to milk chocolate fast and worse of driven. (just undid worst)the blocks are the same, both engines, not pistons,there are no front or rear engine block freeze plugs only side plugs 4 total.and sure the right side under intake man will be hard to see. look under car right side to see em.2 left easy to see and 2 right harder. the right engine block has 2 freeze plugs one in easy view center , under intake man.and one tucked behind that water manifold that can leak too.now the last plugsthe 16valve head has a front freeze plug behind the cam cog wheel. and none on the rear of the head.so 1 front and 3 inside, top. My guess, G16b has 8 plugs total.G16a has 4.things that go POP in the night (cold night)the rear water outlet fitting (head) does explode every time one runs this head on pure water, frozen, ask my how I know that, and what clueless girl did that,, heheheheheheheheh

old post screws /nuts are inside all doors. or thieve would have a hay day. and where else could it be,, really?> when lost like this youtube has like 10,000 people ripping door skins off, all are near same. skins.

old posts , geo. day well the prizm is toyota , corolla in drag. and has 4AFE or 7AFE engines that both have fuel rails and FPR on the rail we always look in the rail first on MPI engine if not there its in the fuel tank on cars 2000 or newer. (EPA law) see FPR with its vacuum hose there, bingo FPR

double posted, why?

it needs a new total lock assumbly, or a new cylinder, the secret pin on the rear unlocks cyl. and assembly muost be pulled reach it. (antitheft rules) id remove the whole thing, and take it to any lock smith. and they can fix it. they re-key it, some look at it and say, its END OF LIFE, i cant see, can you put it in brighter lights?(sarc) looking for magic silver bullets. sure... but there are non in this physically world of tumbler locks, 100s of years old in design.

blower fan in dash.fan on RADfan in front of ac condenser in front of car.does the fan in dash blow , on high?????????does it? if not say so. the car is Corolla, and same car. and works same. when the Blower dies, in the dash , the A/C will be cut off fast.(but not if blower is dead) this is normal for blower dead. (power to it, dead ) this is to prevent icing up of the evap core (might crack it) SPEEDO SIDE TRACKED: are both speedo and odom are dead?why not say so/? rule 2, if the dash blower blows on high , its not the resistor block proof. below. on high the resistor block is bypassed,if blower works and that center fuse below blows, the AC goes dead because 12v dont make it to the the clutch relay.if top fuse below blows, a./c and blower die. even on high.you can see all this stuff on mitchell's, if you want. as most do.btw , the a/c compressor may work , if the the blower has power, but the blower is burned out.the A/C amp logic module sees the 12vdc leaving the switch and assumes the blower works.this rule on blower on, is to keep the core from icing over, and that can bend things.that resistor block is air cooled, and is on the fan chamber to get cooled that way, if not it burns up.but why not tell us if the fan works on high.that way we save 90% of all BS guessing.why not?first is fuses.then if fan blows on high only, then the fan is ok and the resistor block is bad.if blower dead on high, the blower is bad,the fuse blown or the wires to it are bad or the switch,what a tech does is use his voltmeter, a $10 tool.if you have 12vdc to the motor then the fan is history, dead.if not, 12vdc there, fan on, then you work them meter backwards until you find the open circuit.really its that simple.if confused ask quesitions.if you cant test the fan on high, tell why?

dead engine, do head lamps work? on a dead car, dead engine, all power comes from the main car battery. and all power feeds are fused. if fuses blow, no power to that feed. if the battery is dead so will be the head lamps and hand lamps do not take a key top work (a safety feature) this car is toyota corolla. (with geo stickers) how do you know power is missing from F10? you used a voltmeter there? or test lamp? how>? there were 2 engines, 4A and 7AFE engines. ill guess and answer for 4AFE engine Fuse 10 is not a number its the current rating of the fuse. and is maked (you didnt show a photo of fuse, nor where it is) is marked IGN now ill answer with the schematic. (makes it 10x more easy) now power feeds IGN fuse, from the key switch if that switch works the power come to it from AM2 fuse If AM2 is dead then the battery is dead. or the battery ground is bad. or the battery lugs are rusty or the battery is only discharged, so charge it. or jumper cable start car like you see the AAA tow truck man do.

Try to refer to the owners manual. If not, go to the fuse box and see if anything is wired wrong. If you don't know, go to the car dealership and they will test the car and give you a report.

lots of reasons,huge.do want a list of the 50 reasonsor 10 tests using up to 10 tools you dont have.or what is the real question.99% of most people get the car serviced.are you the 1% ?one top reason is not getting a full tuneup.but that is a wild guess, based on pure statistics.which engine?if cant know even that get car servicedif savvy you'd have posted a photo of your engineyou did not, and makes help, impossible or worse invites wild guessing crowd.

what? gasket and seals , where"? the VC, all ignored VC gaskets leakwHy? not doing service is why, for sure.how? those gasket run at near 200f, and bake hard ,dry and brittle on all cars (natural entropy)(added) buy a FELPRO gasket and win.i think the only source of oiltop, center rear is the VCthe valve cover gasket. on the intake side (rear)no photos shown. of leaks.this is a toytoa 4aFE engine.all leaks are due to bad gaskets or seals.we find leaks 2 ways (both with eye balls)1: get it nice and clean drive short distance,stop see where leak comes from..2; the UV die kit and lamp trick. (sold in all auto stores)the first is where, cant do what, why nor how UNTIL WHERE is solved.why not go to any shop , ask them to find the leak.let them do it and now you have WHERE and can take the logical path from there.here>?

older post, 1 month.what goes go out mean. ?twice in 21 long years, ?all distribs need service every 60k milesnothing new here, the operators guide told you that.cap , rotor ,hv wires, and spark plugs.all are basic service items. no one lasts for ever.and not the core distributor. it can last life of the engine,easy.some shops, like to do that, whole thingbecause it's more profit.as you know shops charge like 2 times retail for parts.or in stealerships, the $15 (1.49cent) spark plug(same brand and p/n too)find an honest ASE shop.and win.

You'll need someone to check the electrical circuits to make sure the compressor is working and then check the blend door to make sure the heater is not on. If the compressor stops running it could be the compressor clutch or a relay.