20 Most Recent 1995 Geo Prizm - Page 8 Questions & Answers

The transducer is made into the EGR valve,and comes as a complete assembly.

Not exactly.There is a relay that is powered from the key switch and the EFI main relay.

IF THERE IS AN AUTO ZONE AUTO PARTS IN YOUR NEIGHBORHOOD THEY WILL DO A TEST FOR FREE

Bring to a shop and have a tech put a computer on it, or you can buy one yourself fairly cheap at your nearest auto store.

if they tight fit when mated, ck the motor mount, at shift motor moves execively if mount damaged causing seperation!

Check the fuse box

Only rust holding it on, from leaving iton there too long & failing to remove allrust & lube surfaces that rust

U can get to it from under the hood by twisting out the bub harnest and pull out the light bulb and replace it

On most vehicles its under neath the dash on the drivers side. You will see a wire harness that nothing is plugged to.

Code 12 means the ECM is functioning correctly. No trouble codes stored.Is there an actual problem with the car ?Is the check engine light staying on ?

A mechanic would check for voltage at the starter, the neutral safety switch (automatic) and the key switch.

i can help need the following information please, the vehicle year, make model, engine size, and if any factory/dealed add-on or aftermarket electrical accessorys were added on such as alarm, remote start, etc. thank you.

Normally marked 'AC' or 'FAN'If the solenoid is not turned on with the switch check the voltage to the switch and solenoid if the fuse is not blown.

the attachment that comes with the r134a will only fit one of the fittings correctly. do not force it on. should snap on with the quick connect easily. it should be on the L side or low pressure side.

It's not really a switch. Below is a desciption of what the code means. In about 50 percent of the cases it's a bad connection which is causing the failure and there are many tests to check different circuits. In order to rule out the ignitor here is a quick test you can do. Below is a picture of a breakdown of you distributor (yes the ignitor is in the distributor). Take the distributor cap off. Using a digtal volt meter check with your postive probe the black wire terminal connected to the ignition coil and ground the negative probe to a good grouns like the battery. Make sure you are getting at least 10 to 12 volts. If you are check the connection at the brown and black wire between the coil and the ignitor and make sure all is good (like good continuity) If all is good, chances are the ignitor is faulty. If you are not getting the voltage on the first test right at the black wire terminal at the coil the coil could be faulty. As I said it's a 50/50 thing on this code as far as wiring or a componant such as the coil or ignittor. I have found in the past that in most cases if say a coil or ignitor goes bad, it's just bad and you end up in a no start situation but there are those odd cases that outside temps effect everything like engine heat or a componant over heating.Hope this helps and good luck.