Top 20 1999 Saturn SL - Page 2 Questions & Answers

About midway down the block on the same side that the oil filter is located.

suggest you start by checking the fuse in the in car fuse box, owner manual will indicated which fuse. You may want to visit this page for SL2 solutions Saturn SL2 Repair Questions and Answers 2CarPros

Turn the wheel to the right while gently trying to turn the ignition.

There are 3 mounts. top engine mount, which is the easiest to replace. The other two require a lift, tools and muscle. A bad top engine mount causes vibrations on the font end and dash. The tools to replace a floor jack, wood block, sockets, replacement bolts and new mount.

Is it front or back ,take the cover off,there is 2 clips on side stops belt left the clips belt well move

I would suggest going back to the locksmith and getting a refund or fixing the problem to your liking. Check that their work is guaranteed or under warranty.

148 ft lbs

Normally on the flywheel inside the gearbox bell housing. Some manufactures also have it on the front crankshaft pully.

Go to a auto recycling yard/junkyard and pick one up the whole door for $10 to 15 dollars or look on rockauto.com its one of the cheapest and best site for parts and instructions

It is located on the fuse panel on the Passenger side. Look for the removable panel that is located below the radio/center bezel on the right side (passenger side). It's not part of the center shifter console, but just forward of it. Remove the panel marked "Fuses"! You will find the Wiper Fuse in this panel along with the fuses for the Radio, Accessory Power Plug/Lighter, Power Door Lock & Window Relays, Fuel Pump Relay, Cruise Control fuse, exc...... Hope this info helps!

If is automatic check oil level,if is manual check your clutch

You need to drop your gas tank, first un clamp filler hose fro underneath, and vent hose. Undo the two gas tank straps and wiggle tank down around the exhaust system. Once on the ground you will see a small ring around the hoses going into the sending unit, being very careful to not get dirt in the tank. Sending unit should pop out . The fuel pump is bolted onto the sending unit. You un plug the 2 wires going to it and the bolts holding it on, and replace the opposite way good luck

So to install new brakes you always need to compress your caliper back to its original position. There are two ways of doing this one requires you to bleed your system and the other does not. 1. you can loosen your bleeder screw on your caliper to release the pressure to compress your caliper piston if you choose this method you will definitely need to bleed the system because loosening the bleeder screws allows air to enter your brake lines. 2. The other method is remove your brake reservoir cap. If you choose this method you will not need to bleed your brakes (this is assuming you had no air in your brake system prior to starting your brake job) this method allows you to push your brake fluid back up through your reservoir. I would suggest though put a towel around the filler neck of your reservoir because the excess fluid will come out the top as you compress the piston in the calipers. Good luck I hope this helps

If it has a timeing sensor on a device that looks like a distributer in older cars it should be changed also. It and the crank sensor share info in order to work properly.

You don't have to, but if they have never been bleed before and you have over 90k miles on it, it wouldn't hurt! Look at its condition, if it's Clear and nothing is floating in the fluid and the brake is high and firm when depressed, it would be best to leave it alone. But, if the brake pedal is spongy and pumps up after depressing it a few times, then bleeding the system will remove any trapped air bubbles and it will also remove any contaminants or moisture that may have collected over time. If you have access to a Pressure Bleeder, you would have less problems as long as you don't over pressurize the system. Also, make sure you use Dot 3 Brake Fluid if you do bleed them. And if you have never bleed the system and don't have a pressure bleeder, do your best not to don't push the brake pedal to the floor during the bleed process. If you do, it could cause damage the Master Cylinder's internal seals causing them to leak which will cause your brake pedal to sink while holding pressure like at a stop light, causing brake presure failure and the need to either rebuild the Master Cylinder or replace it with a new or rebuilt one! Don't rush through the prosses and doing this on a less humid day is always best as Brake fluid tends to draw moisture from the air, causing your new brake fluid to become contaminated prematurely. One other thing, soak the Bleeder Valves on the Calipers and or Wheel Cylinders with "PB Blaster", its a rust busting penetrant, much Better and Faster then WD40 and will aid in loosening rusted bleeder valves without breaking them. Hope this helps. Happy Saturn Motoring!

Usually means the park switch inside the wiper motor is faulty.

The Starter is located under the intake manifold on th back bottom side of the motor! The only way to remove it is from under the car! Remove the Neg Battery terminal from the battery before going under the car. If I recall correctly, there are (2) 14 or 15mm bolts holding it to the engine block, one of them is a Blind bolt, as you will only be able to feel its location on the back side of the starter. (tip, when replacing the bolt behind the starter, either have a small magnet inside the socket to hold the bolt inside the socket while tring to locate the hole. You could also use a small piece of paper or plastic bag to wedge the bolt head to the socket so it doesn't fall out while tring to locate the hole! You will also have a 13mm nut holding the Positive battery and Alt. cable to the starter and a 10mm nut holding the wire coming from the ignition switch. Hope this helps! Happy Saturn Motoring!

post symptoms like this. i check head lights, they work key out , so do they? i turn the key to Ignition on. the dash self test lamps all glow, do they,? look at that CEL lamp, (aka SES) lamp, check engine lamp it it dont glow the engine brain, lost power, fuse, (head lamps work) if the CEL glows. then now crank the engine, (start pos.) does it crank robustly? yes /no? yes, do you have spark> no, does car crank over fast with jumper cables to running donor car? that is start, no pun.

Is the shifter real loose and floppy? If it is you may be starting out in 3rd gear instead of 1st! Remove the shifter boot below the shifter look at the rods as you shift 1 thru 5 and Rev! Note the rod position as you shift thru the gears. You can do this while sitting idle, not driving! If while tring to get it into 1st, take your hand and push the left rod farther forward has you move it into 1st gear! If you are able to get it into 1st, try driving forward, if it doesn't stall, chances are you need to replace the shifter do to the worn out Nylon Bushings in the shifter! If this doesn't help, take a look under the hood and see if the shifter cables are attached to the top of the shifter tower! Some times the clips holding the shifter cable to the trans come off and one of the cables will slide making it impossible to get it into 1st gear! Hope this helps! if you need photos of what I'm trying to explain, please reply back as soon as possible.

cause the car has what is called power brakes, which means that it is assisted by the vacuum created while the engine is running. The brake booster is where this assistance come from and the is the big round thing your master cylinder is hooked to. if you don't know what a master cylinder is that the thing you put your brake fluid in. but I have seen those boosters go bad and cause a problem similar to your except I had brakes when not running but bearly enough to stop the car from rolling. hope this helps