20 Most Recent 2003 Jeep Wrangler - Page 7 Questions & Answers

The engine light indicates that there is a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) available for download from the vehicle computer. Go to your local Auto Zone or O'Reiley's (SP?). They can download the code and tell you whats involved and its FREE!

change the front pinion seal and check the axle seals for leakeage

There isn't much you could have done incorrectly by changing the radiator to cause the problems you have now. Therefore, I'm guessing that you badly overheated the engine. When that happens, engine seals become brittle and loose their ability to seal which results in oil leaks. High temperatures can cause the compression rings on the pistons to relax, in which case you are now loosing compression which not only causes performance loss but will also pressurize the inside of the engine and cause leaks.. Extreme heating can also allow your timing chain to stretch a bit, also causing performance problems.
If you have already checked the condition of the ignition system to make sure there is no arcing and spark loss, I'd do a compression and or cylinder leak-down test to check the internal condition of the engine.
If everything turns out to be OK inside, then treat this like any other performance problem and test all sensors, run a code test and make sure the air filter is clean and the converter is flowing well. As for oil leaks, Replace seals or gaskets that are leaking.

Ball joints may be bad or still improper alignment.

This job requries special tools, and training. Serious injury awaits the untrained.
Have a shop perform this service for you, and live.

Check the dipstick tube seal, maybe the cooler in the rad is bad allowing coolant into the trans just a guess

If the gears have been INCREASED the speed etc will be less.
Say it's increased by 18%.In theory,at 100mph real speed, the speedo will read 18%less.i.e. 82mph.
If the speedo is driven off the g/box,all this has to be taken into account.
If the speedo is driven off the wheels(and the wheels have not changed at all)All that will happen is the engine revs will have decreased by 18%.
So,To work out the difference.Divide the distance travelled by 100 and then multiply the answer by 82.(82 is the remaining % of the original)
So if 150 miles is divided by 100=1.5
1.5 is multiplied by 82=123 miles.
Hope this helps

Hi:
There are hundreds of things that can trip the check engine light, some so simple as a loose gas cap. Your best bet is to get your jeep scanned for free at a local auto parts store, such as autozone. Usually they will scan your code, and tell you what the most likely cause of the code is. Then you can make a good decision as to what needs fixed!

u only did part of the job most people change the air intake first put in a cool box or k&n type which causes some of same problems as opening the exhaust-- ur letting to much air out no back pressure and not enough air going in causing an imbalance also ur going to have problems with o2 sensors/cat sensors also mass air flow down the line

Support the wheel flange on the hub on both sides of the stud and give it a good smack with a heavy hammer. To re-install, stack oiled washers on the stud and pull it into place using a wrench and the lug nut.

get your wheels tracked and balanced should sort it out

I'm sorry to tell you this but there is no solenoids for park or ignition.
the only solenoid that is stopping you from getting it out of park or to any gear was the inter lock solenoid that works from your brake switch.thats why you have to push on the brake to get out of park.if your shifter is on the floor,you can remove the solenoid and not have to use it,so i'm guessing the ignition switch did not power the switch to move the solenoid and thats why it wouldn't come out of park,your ignition switch "might" come back to you when you disable the interlock and the shifter can go back in fully.good luck

those are good for the fuel pumps going bad
have someone crank it while you bang on the tank with a piece of wood or kick it. 95% of the time i can get a bad pump to work one more time by doing this and it also is an easy way to prove it was the fuel pump

If it is for the radiator cooling fans, it should be there. Do your cooling fans work when a/c is on or when temp gauge climbs above normal?

have you checked your dimmer sw, sometimes this is it...did the hd lite problem show up when you put the toggle on, if so look for a ground....also trace the red wire from the head lites to a junction where the lites get their voltage....good luck

your blower motor resister is bad.

That code is related to an oxygen sensor failure (or wiring problem) Many times though the code is set by the sensor not because it has failed but because it is reading a mixture in the exhaust that is beyond its ability to read. Therefore, to avoid replacing the sensor and still having the same problem when you are finished it is essential that you check the remainder of the system paying close attentions to somewhat out of range items which aren't bad enough to set a code, but together, throw the control system off enough to cause a problem. Not only sensors need testing but the ignition coil, plug condition and vacuum system/vapor recovery need to be right in order for everything to be working correctly.(pretty much anything that can change how well the fuel is being used in the engine) I know it takes time and patience to do all this but that is what any competent shop will do so you are not back there the next day!!! Most testing can be done using a digital multi-meter and a haynes or chiltons manual as a guide reference. And of course, before you begin, do check the values of the O2 sensor as well.

Check coolant level