20 Most Recent 2005 Chrysler Pacifica Questions & Answers

Hi,

Yes you can.

Thanks.

question edited for clarity. Question moved to model category. No, it just has the Integrated Power Module in the engine bay.

Chrysler Pacifica (CS; 2004-2008) fuses

Fuse-Box.info https://fuse-box.info > chrysler > chrysler-pacifica-cs-... In this article, you will find fuse box diagrams of Chrysler Pacifica 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007 and 2008, get information about the location of the fuse panels ...

• Fuse Box Diagram Chrysler

  https://fuse-box.info > Home > Chrysler Fuse box diagram (location and assignment of electrical fuses) for Chrysler 300 / 300C (Mk1/LX; 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010).

Chrysler Pacifica (crossover) (2003-2007) fuse box ...

imgVEHICLE.com https://imgvehicle.com > chrysler > fuse-box An Integrated Power Module is located in the engine compartment near the battery. This center contains maxi fuses, mini fuses and relays. A label that ...

Chrysler Pacifica 2005 Fuse Box/Block Circuit Breaker ...

CarFuseBox https://www.carfusebox.com > chrysler-pacifica-2005-fu... Apr 6, 2022 - Chrysler Pacifica 2005 Fuse Box/Block Circuit Breaker Diagram ; 2, C51 18LB/BR, Fused Rear Booster Fan Relay Output ; 3, W4 12BR/OR, Front ..

Question edited to put year in full. Question moved to model category. You have two unrelated issues. The air bag light is on because there is a fault with it. Only by checking DTC Codes will tell you this issue. It could be the clock spring connection, it could be the sensors. The Horn issue is probably the horn relay, relay R9. https://fuse-box.info/chrysler/chrysler-pacifica-cs-2004-2008-fuses ..

So our first Pacifica we bought kind of ran into a problem that needed something similar like this to be done. Yours and my issue are probably two totally different scenarios in comparison but maybe it may help you or someone else. Here goes; So one day my wife was driving back home from work and she ended up smelling something burning and then shortly after she saw some smoke coming up or out from under the hood. So she decided to make a stop and check it out. So she opens the hood to check where the smoke was coming from then right after she opened the hood, she said there was a decent mild fire that just burst out for a bit and she freaks out thinking our car is gonna blow up because she didn't have anything to put the fire out. So she runs to the back to look for something to help put out the fire, I believe? So by the time she comes back to the engine bay, the fire is finally out and is still pretty smokey but she double checks everything and decides to start it. It starts, so she drives the remaining 10 or so miles home and no fire ever starts back up on the remaining trip. She comes home, tells me.(I was a lil worried and speechless when she did) We decide to inspect literally "everything and everywhere" and a lil later my wife finds and locates the source of where the fire started and it turns out that it was our ac compressor. The wires were melted and our compressor was cosmetically charred. Prior to this issue, we had an electrical short problem with it that we knew of. Our battery wouldn't hold charge and it was practically brand new. So the next thing we did we ended up replacing the starter(due to it had problems starting up due the the constant dead battery because of the electrical short we had that was giving us trouble with identifying where the short actually was and we still never identified the issue. We ended up rewiring all the grounds, used a wire brush to scrape off all the corrosion and all that good stuff. Which is not the subject i was originally posting about. So we did all that work just for our short issue just to end up having the short in a whole new place. It is now currently in our front right headlight and it burns really hot after lights are turned on. The battery still does not keep a full charge but it drains super slowly now. As long as we drive it daily the battery does not die or drain but all that aside, we can't use our ac compressor so we didn't drive our first Pacifica after all that work because we ended up buying another Pacifica to temporarily replace our first one to work on, thats another story. But back to the story, so since we had difficulty with the compressor not running or working properly after all that work we did and it being slightly burnt from catching fire not long before all that work. So long story short, we ended up needing to somehow bypass the compressor as well and it was actually really simple. We ended up bypassing the ac compressor by replacing the serpentine belt with a shorter serpentine belt & lo and behold it served its purpose. Our compressor has not been connected since then and its been about 7-8 months since then. Ac don't work but everything else all works perfectly fine besides the overheating front headlight. I know I added a lot of detail and story that had nothing to do with what this post exactly asked of but I just felt the need to try explain a little of what all happened to our Pacifica that led up to why we had to find a quick fix of bypassing our compressor the way we did. We now own two 05 Pacificas that definitely made us go to hell and back just to keep them running but I honestly think it was worth all the effort and money we put into them because I learned to love our Pacificas. I absolutely love the 04-08 Pacifica bodystyle. I really hope this helps someone looking for answers because I know we didn't have the luxury of being able to find ppl, let alone even answers, to the issues we experiencing with our Pacificas. We had put in the work to find all the answers on our own which was hell. We spent 2 months of troubleshooting every possible fix that we could think of. Almost 2 whole MONTHS! 2 M O N T H S ! We drove daily both vehicles the whole time we were troubleshooting too and it was not the easiest thing to do. But thats all I have for now, there's more about our Pacificas but if anyone has any questions or need answers for working on a Pacifica, you can ask me and I'll do my best to respond and help as much as I can.

How do i change the egr valve on a 2005 pacifica

Hello Scott.

Check for 12Volts+ on the blue wire to the resistor with key on, heater blower fan on.
This is power from the blower motor relay in the integrated power module under the hood.
If no power, swap a relay from another socket that is the same and see if it operates.
Also check fuses #42 (40 amp fuse) and 45 (10 amp fuse) in the IPM.
There is also a possibility of a problem in the control panel to the IPM.
Chrysler has more than its share of problems in the IPM modules too.
Check that much out and let me know if you require further assistance.

Some knobs need to be physically unscrewed while others have tiny little screws at the base that lock the knob into place

The TCM is located on top of the transmission right below the exhaust tubing that wraps around to the back. There is a wiring harness with an 8 mm bolt on top of the TCM

can you hear anything engageing when you put it in gear?

IF YOU HANDY IT IS AN EASY FIX, I DID FIX MY. LOOKS LIKE YOU OR SOME FORCED A DISK IN TO THE CD HOLDERS. 1- I DID TAKE OUT THE CD CHANGER FROM THE CAR, 2-OPEN THE TOP CASING OF THE CD CHANGER,NOW YOU CAN SEE THE CDS AND THE HOLDERS WHICH SAPARATES THE CDS,IT IS VERY LIGHT TIN OR ALLUMINIUM PLATES, USSUALLY ONE OF THEM IS BENT THAT IS THE PROBLEM STRAITEN AND PUT IT BACK. FIX YA AND SAVE 500 BUCKS.

https://www.fixya.com/cars/t14082610-evap_canister_located_2005_chrysler

I looked up fuel tank filler neck in online parts book. At the gas cap, is there three screws holding the top part of filler neck? If so, remove the screws. Lower part of filler neck, where it attaches to fuel tank, is there a hose with hose clamp? Take the hose clamp loose. Do you have to safely raise and support the vehicle in order to remove filler neck? W/o being able to look at it, I don't know? good luck

No fuse for all bulbs are fused themselves. If not working the headlamp switch is at fault. Bulbs act like a fuse too you know. When shorted they will simply burn out causing an open to the circuit. The filiament burns away just like a fuse burns out

Which fuse(s) blow?

Likely the shudder is ABS activating which in itself shouldn't cause fuses to blow. And a blown ABS fuse shouldn't affect the transmission. So I expect more than one fuse is blowing which would imply inappropriate connection between systems (short).

What are road conditions? If clear dry pavement then ABS should not be activating unless severve extreme braking. If snow and ice, then ABS will likely activate and shudder.

Likely there are stored OBD codes which would give direction.

When you replace fuses, try leaving out the ABS fuse. You won't have ABS (pump brakes if lockup) but if the problem abates you can still get around and have it serviced at your earliest convenience.

There were 2 directions that I found. Here they are:

1. With the engine off, turn the ignition switch to "On" without starting the engine.
2. Within a 10 second interval, push the accelerator pedal all the way down slowly three times within 10 seconds.
3. Turn the ignition switch to the "LOC" position.

Second one is: Step 1 Turn the key in your ignition to "ACC." Do not start the engine. Step 2 Press the "Step" button. This button is located on the instrument panel under the display that tells you how many miles until the car needs to have the oil changed again. Step 3 Press the "Reset" button until the display shows "3000 Miles to Service." Turn the key to the "OFF" position and remove it from the ignition. The oil monitoring system has been reset. Hope this solves your issue.

if any codes have scanned for problem no codes --bad gas -injector[s]- skipped timing - plugs --wires - coils -

My 2005 Chrysler Pacifica is shaking still after I took it to a repair shop they fixed the motor mount front left and said that I have to get the engine mount right, left , front and rear, transmission mount engine mount front right. How many mounts are there.

The driver and passenger area separately and must be recalibrate after installing and both are reversible same motor

I would consider using air to blow water out of all electric comnectors esp around fuse box and alt even temove batt cables and clean or remove mostire

Hi Anonymous, Im glad to help! The U110C is a BUS Message and usually has to do with both PCM and BCM, because its a lose of BUS Signal between the PCM and the BCM. FIRST THING TO TRY: The first thing I would try is remove the negative battery cable for 20 seconds then replace it. NEXT: Start the engine several times then let idle for 10 to 20 minutes then start it several more times and if the code doesn't return and the check engine light stays out, simple drive it for awhile like you normally would. If the code come right back, below is some common problems. COMMON CAUSES of U110C: (1) Communication with BCM is lost / See if you can communicate with the BCM. (2) PCI Bus Circuit open between PCM and BCM / Check the positive and negative bus signal at both the PCM and BCM. (3) BCM (4) PCM (5) Fuel Level Bus Message is missing Obviously, all these issues must be tested to see which one is causing the problem. BUT first try the battery cable removal and see what happens. Let me know the out come and I'll try to help further. Hope this helps and have an awesome day!