2005 Jeep Wrangler - Page 4 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

did you try a crankshaft sencor

I know your problem well. I have experienced it many times over the years with cars, trucks. jeeps and boats. In every case, replacing the starting motor fixed the problem. I am assuming here that the battery and cable connectors are good. A dead battery will give the same clicking sound. A poor or corroded battery cable connection can produce the same clicking noise.If you are trying to save money, remove and clean the battery connector on the starting motor first. Starting motors are usually located in the path of lots of road salt and other contaminants. You will probably end up replacing the starting motor but this is worth a try if cost is important. Make sure the starting motor rebuilder is reputable. Over the years, I have had dozens of starting motors rebuilt. Never once have I needed to have a relay or slave solenoid replaced. I always run a healthy battery and that has helped too.pounding the top with the hammer help give it the extra jolt to get going, when the power from the battery should be plenty. ( I don't mean the hammer is actually pumping electricity, it moves and frees the dying fly wheel a little.). Try cleaning the battery terminals once more and make sure the connections are right and clean them as well, if that is the case, very very good chance it is your starter.

Yes?

starters, alternators and radios will drain the batteries the fastest

DESCRIPTION The Oxygen Sensors (O2S) are attached to, and protrude into the vehicle exhaust system. Depending on the engine or emission package, the vehicle may use a total of either 2 or 4 sensors.

On this emissions package, 4 sensors are used: 2 upstream (referred to as 1/1 and 2/1) and 2 downstream (referred to as 1/2 and 2/2). With this emission package, the right upstream sensor (2/1) is located in the right exhaust downpipe just before the mini-catalytic convertor. The left upstream sensor (1/1) is located in the left exhaust downpipe just before the mini-catalytic convertor. The right downstream sensor (2/2) is located in the right exhaust downpipe just after the mini-catalytic convertor, and before the main catalytic convertor. The left downstream sensor (1/2) is located in the left exhaust downpipe just after the mini-catalytic convertor, and before the main catalytic convertor.

Left and right are distinguished by sitting in the vehicle, not looking at the vehicle from the front

bank 2 is passenger side depends on what the rest of the code says, should say sensor ? bank 2

This will be the upstream sensor (before the Cat converter) for cylinders 4,5,6. These are the back 3 cylinders.. Hope this helps.

You've got a vac leak...somewhere.
Unfortunately, you'll have to make time to find it.
When you lose enough vacuum...the "blend door's" default position is to blow out the defrost.

I've looked for vac leaks with starting fluid, or Barryman B12.
While engine is running spray hose connections...when engine "surges"...that's where the leak is.

Hope this helps...

If the starter wont turn...Id check / replace starter solonoid.
If the starter turns but doesn't engage the flywheel...I'd check / replace the bendix.
If starter checks good and bendix is good...I'd look at the teeth on the flywheel.

Hope this helps...

It's built in the alternator.

I had the same problem with the vents & it turned out that one of the vacuum hoses going to the dashboard control switches had a split in it. Once repaired, problem solved.

try unlocking and relocking the driverside door with the key then unlock the door with the remote this should reset the alarm.

The vehicle until warm runs off a different set of parameters for the computer as far as timing and fuel are concerned. Temp is not a problem at 200... and it is normal for the oil pressure to lower once warm. ( as long as you have 10 psi oil pressure for every 1,000 rpm's you are ok.)

The two codes cam/crank sensor are timing related related. So I would suspect something that deals with both sensors,Timing chain maybe?This particular engine has a problem with chewing up timing chains. If you find this to be the problem i recommend using factory GM replacement parts. I have had to re-do several that i tried to use aftermarket parts on. The only other thing that comes to mind , dealing with the drive ability, is the fuel pressure. These vehicles are sensitive in the fuel pressure area, but this should not make the light on the dash come on. You may have more than one issue. The other part of the vehicle that deals with timing is the ECM. If you have access to a scan tool with data stream on it , you can look and see if the ECM is receiving a signal.

Hello schuetzbrn

I would strongly suggest that the next time this happens to you, go to Autozone and ask them to scan your Jeep for the code. this will be your best bet at knowing what it is and what to do next. Go from there. it shouldn't be a major problem if the engine light doesn't stay on.

-hopeufixit-

yes i could be but what i dont undersatnd is chyrsler jeep fuel pumps are not servicable the whole assembly has to be changed anyway lik on ford you can just change pump but you cannot on your car you must replace all as they dont even make just a pump it the pump strainer float all in one and runs usally about 250.00 bucks just for assembly make sure when you change it again that you also change fuel filters strainer and fuel pressure regulator

if it helps please leave me 4 thumbs up

Sounds like your heater/bower motor has an issue. Behind the glove box door is your heater motor, and mounted to it is a heater motor resistor. It will have a wire harness plugged into it. These go bad, and you will loose low speeds.

the lock ring for the shifter fork inside the transmission gearbox may be worn out. jeep transmission dont last long especially if a lift kit or bigger tires are installed.

Yeah it can be cause of road conditions weather conditions and most oe balljoints don't have grease fittings. Its not uncommon. A ball joint is probably the most abused and overlooked part of a suspension.

The problem you have is called "Death Wobble" and is well known in the Jeeping community. It is almost always caused by a loose track bar, either at the axle end or frame end. First check the tightness of the bolts at both ends. Any play in the track bar will cause death wobble. A certain cure is a new track bar with the fasteners torqued to the correct specs. Most of the time though, just tightening the bolts at the frame and axle ends will cure the "shakes". The grey bar in the picture is the track bar.

Faulty sending unit. The float has a hole in it or unit itself has broken.