Top 20 2005 Jeep Wrangler - Page 3 Questions & Answers

Add a can of Beerymans Chemtool to the oil run it for a few days and then change the oil. If it is dirt or sludge issue that will clear it up. if not the lifter is defective and should be replaced and or inspected for the cause of the excessive lash.

They sell adapters that screw on to the original enabling you to change the shift knob.Or check with a speed shop.Also some parts stores will have a bunch of male and female thread sizer hanging in the same location as hardware. Sometimes it`s on a flat board in that section as well. If you look in the perfomance section you may also find an adapter kit!

What you need is a headlight switch and you can get them at just about any auto parts store.

no it is on the left side on trans a cable coming from the shifte will be next the you trans above you trans pan . the grommet runs 8.00 at a dealer. takes 5 minuets to install your self. just replaced on 5 days ago.

I've never seen a vacuum line go from exhaust to heater, if you are haveing trouble with your heater there are questions that should be asked 1 does the blower motor work when you turn on the fan 2 does the heater core flow fluid (hot coolant) check this by feeling the heater core hoses 1 should be hot and 1 is usually warm or hot. 3 are the climate control switches functioning properly

have you checked the fuses and relays. does the the brakes come on when you put on the head lights

My first guess would be a blown major fuse, or a problem with the key switch.

check your engine block ground or the battery ground make sure the engine is properly grounded or is still grounded

You will need a scanner that can read live engine running system data to see what is going on in the fuel control system. You can buy this type of scanner on eBay for about $100.00 Look for this "OBD2 Live Data Scanner"

HelloThe engine and transmission in this cars drive train are fully electronically controlled by a computer called the PCM (Power Train Control Module). Whenever a problem like this occurs the computer stores a record of the problem (there are of course some exceptions to this, like the fuel pump, engine coolant temperature sensor and MAF sensor for instance) in the form of a fault code in its memory, to read these fault codes you must have the systems memory scanned with a special tool. Once the fault code(s) are read you then must perform the appropriate diagnostic testing to find and resolve the problem(s) DO NOT REPLACE ANY PARTS UNTIL A TRAINED TECHNICAIN HAS DIAGNOSED THE PROBLEM TO AVOID SPEDING YOUR HARD EARNED MONEY ON PARTS THAT MAY NOT CORRECT THE PROBLEM

depends on how deep you want to get into auto repair or just to check engine codes. SNAP-ON Versus is state of the art with a price tag of 10,000 dollars. you can get simple hand held readers for about 150 dollars at a local parts store.

Disable airbag, remove steering wheel, remove - but do not disconnect - electrical switch. In the metal housing near the ignition switch is a small slot. The slot may be closed off with flashing (a thin metal deposit resulting from casting process used to make the housing). Use a #3 flat tip screwdriver, push firmly into the slot and pull out switch.

You checked to make sure you didn't blow all the bulbs at once?If your front park lights work, then the headlight switch is probably alright.You may have a taillight relay in your fusebox. Check the owner's manual. It may show it.

There are several things you need to check. Start by checking the alignment between the pinion gear of the starter and the flywheel. If that is loose or binding the starter will do this. Next, check teh starter relay to make sure it isn't faulting out. finally, if you have an Alarm installed, cut the power wire to the alarm or pull the fuse to make sure it isn't the Anti-Theft circuit malfunctioning and stopping it from starting.

if you drive by the local dealer and buy the mechanic a caoofey he will likelly take the knob off for you for free

I know your problem well. I have experienced it many times over the years with cars, trucks. jeeps and boats. In every case, replacing the starting motor fixed the problem. I am assuming here that the battery and cable connectors are good. A dead battery will give the same clicking sound. A poor or corroded battery cable connection can produce the same clicking noise.If you are trying to save money, remove and clean the battery connector on the starting motor first. Starting motors are usually located in the path of lots of road salt and other contaminants. You will probably end up replacing the starting motor but this is worth a try if cost is important. Make sure the starting motor rebuilder is reputable. Over the years, I have had dozens of starting motors rebuilt. Never once have I needed to have a relay or slave solenoid replaced. I always run a healthy battery and that has helped too.pounding the top with the hammer help give it the extra jolt to get going, when the power from the battery should be plenty. ( I don't mean the hammer is actually pumping electricity, it moves and frees the dying fly wheel a little.). Try cleaning the battery terminals once more and make sure the connections are right and clean them as well, if that is the case, very very good chance it is your starter.

starters, alternators and radios will drain the batteries the fastest

did you try a crankshaft sencor

DESCRIPTION The Oxygen Sensors (O2S) are attached to, and protrude into the vehicle exhaust system. Depending on the engine or emission package, the vehicle may use a total of either 2 or 4 sensors.

On this emissions package, 4 sensors are used: 2 upstream (referred to as 1/1 and 2/1) and 2 downstream (referred to as 1/2 and 2/2). With this emission package, the right upstream sensor (2/1) is located in the right exhaust downpipe just before the mini-catalytic convertor. The left upstream sensor (1/1) is located in the left exhaust downpipe just before the mini-catalytic convertor. The right downstream sensor (2/2) is located in the right exhaust downpipe just after the mini-catalytic convertor, and before the main catalytic convertor. The left downstream sensor (1/2) is located in the left exhaust downpipe just after the mini-catalytic convertor, and before the main catalytic convertor.

Left and right are distinguished by sitting in the vehicle, not looking at the vehicle from the front

bank 2 is passenger side depends on what the rest of the code says, should say sensor ? bank 2